Map Five:
Map 5 is a diagrammatic drawing showing the generalized variations in the local natural landscape of the geographic regions of Oklahoma as identified on Map 3. The principal rivers are also shown on the drawing, but none of the large man-made lakes are located.
The Ouachita Mountains are formed by a series of curving ridges known as the Kiamichi Mountains, Winding Stair Mountains, and other local names. The mountains form the most rugged topography in the state and the development of transportation systems within the area is therefore extremely difficult. The Kiamichi River, flowing westward in the valley north of the Kiamichi Mountains, eventually flows south and southeast across the Coastal Plain into the Red River. Other streams, such as the Glover and Little rivers, also follow mountain valleys, but Mountain Fork River has cut a deep valley through some of the southern ridges. The San Bois Mountains, between the Fourche Maline and Arkansas rivers, form the northern part of the Ouachitas.
The Cookson Hills and the Boston Mountains form the rugged southern part of the Ozark Plateau, but the northern part of the Plateau has several large areas often referred to as prairies. The Illinois is the principal river flowing southwestward from the Ozarks. The Grand and Arkansas rivers delimit the western and southern boundary of the region.
West of the Ouachitas and Ozarks most of the remainder of Oklahoma is a vast plains area. Some local variations are: (1) the rounded hills in south-central Oklahoma known as the Arbuckle Mountains; (2) the large granite peaks of southwestern Oklahoma called the Wichita Mountains and their outlier, the Quartz Mountains; (3) the Shawnee Hills, a sandstone cuesta area located near the Canadian River in the east-central part of the state; (4) the Antelope Hills in the most western of the large meanders of the Canadian River in Roger Mills County; (5) gypsum-capped hills known as the Glass Mountains, located somewhat on the divide between the North Canadian and Cimarron rivers; and (6) Black Mesa, located in northwestern Cimarron County. The Osage Hills, located largely in Osage County, are a southern extension of the Flint Hills of Kansas. The elevations of the plains areas across the state increase gradually from the Coastal Plains south of the Ouachitas to the eastern edge of the Panhandle. Once the Great Plains are reached, however, elevation increases rapidly westward across the High Plains to Black Mesa. In several places large sand dunes have formed on the left bank of the Cimarron and North Canadian rivers as well as along Beaver Creek. Much of this material is blow-sand from the rivers. Unless vegetation is able to tie the sand in place it continues to move generally eastward because of wind direction. Large salt plains are located on the Salt Fork of the Arkansas and the upper Cimarron River in Woods County.
The Arkansas, Canadian, and Red rivers, for the most part, are braided streams that meander across sand-filled beds. Several early travelers and writers noted that these rivers, as well as parts of the Cimarron, “are a mile wide but only six inches deep.” Although little water may be seen flowing on the surface, much water flows through the sands below the surface. These sands are often forty to sixty feet deep. The North Canadian, formed by the confluence of the Beaver and Wolf creeks, flows through a narrow drainage basin which is higher than the areas to the north or south of it. The Washita is the principal western tributary of the Red River. A deep and narrow canyon has been formed where the Washita cuts through the Arbuckles. The Three Forks Area, where the Grand, Verdigris, and Arkansas rivers unite at the edge of the Ozarks, is one of the most historically important locations in Oklahoma.
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