Full text of "The Spanish journal of Elizabeth, lady Holland"
and powers of reply ; her eagerness oftentimes blinds her
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and powers of reply ; her eagerness oftentimes blinds her better judgment, and disposes her to be credulous with i 9 4 LADY HOLLAND'S JOURNAL [l8 o 4 regard to stories of the Court ; and her resentment for the unjust persecution of so many of her friends renders her severe and rash in her conclusions upon the proceed- ings of the Court. The society at Madrid appears from her, as well as every other account, to have been much better in the time of Charles III than it is at present ; much greater liberty of conversation and freedom of intercourse. The circumstances and jealousy of the Q., political and amorous, are the chief causes of this change, as those who offend her are exiled, and those who escape are glad to obtain security by their silence and discretion. Mde. de Monti jo is herself a Grandee, and her husband only a cadet of the House of Hijar. When Ld. Auckland 1 was Ambassador, she rather liked Ly. Auckland, but when she visited her she made a condition that Milor should not be troubled, he being too moral and hyper- critical in his aphorisms for her. She is supposed to be privately married to M. Lugo. Madame de Lazan, her daughter, lively and clever. Madame de Villafranca, 2 another daughter, very like her mother in figure and person. Extremely clever, but not quite so cheerful. Her husband is the brother of the late D. of Alba, head of the House of Guzman, and inheritor and representative of the estates and family of Medina Sidonia. Their house is the most magnificent in Madrid, and adorned with fine pictures and portraits of the Guzman family. Their archives contain many curious papers relating to the Spanish history in the time of the Austrian dynasty : vast number of clerks always at work there, as indeed in all the great houses. All their papers were accessible 1 William, first Lord Auckland (1744-18 14), was Ambassador in Madrid 1 788-1 789. His wife was sister to Sir Gilbert Elliot, first Earl of Minto. a Da. Maria Tomasa Palafox y Portocarrero married D. Francisco de Borja Alvarez de Toledo, XII Marques de Villafranca (1763-1821). DUCHESS OF OSUNA 195 to Ld. Hd., who had applied to examine if there should be any that could be of service to his uncle in his History. El Marques de Villafranca passes his time chiefly at Court, as he is Mayordomo Mayor to the Princess. He is very much attached to his wife and children, and she has not yet taken a decided cortejo. Mde. de Villamonte, 1 another daughter, handsome, but less so than her sister Me. de la Condamina, whom we knew at Valencia. Monsieur Lugo, a man of letters, and a Jansenist. As he is very intimately connected with Me. de Montijo we must give him credit for some capacity and sense, but none can be detected from his conversation. His brother is married to a very pretty French woman. He is Spanish Consul at Lisbon. Dsa. de Osuna, 2 heiress in her own right of the House of (Pimentel), Benavente, Quifiones, &c, &c, to the number of four or five sombreros alias grandesses, is the most distinguished woman in Madrid from her talents, worth, and taste. She has acquired a relish for French luxuries, without diminishing her national magnificence and hospitality. She is very lively, and her natural wit covers her total want of refinement and acquirement. Her figure is very light and airy. She was formerly the great rival of the celebrated Dss. of Alba in profligacy and profusion. Her cortejo, Pefia, has been attached for many years, and is now the only one established. She is rather imperious in her family. Her revenues are greater even than the D. of Osuna's, who is a very tolerably sensible man and of considerable knowledge. He had great projects of ambition, and acquired at the beginning 1 The youngest daughter, Da. Maria Benita de los Dolores, married D. Antonio Ciriaco Maria Belvis de Moncada, Conde de Villamonte (afterwards Marques de Belgida). The eldest, Da. Ramona, married D. Jose de la Cerda, Conde de la Condamina. 3 See ante, p. 49. o 2 196 LADY HOLLAND'S JOURNAL [l8o4 of the French Revolution the surname of being another Orleans. He obtained permission during his favor at Court to import from foreign countrys what books he chose for his own library, notwithstanding they were prohibited by the Inquisition, and he took advantage of this to collect a very good and extensive library, chiefly of classics, history, voyages, and books of science, which he intended for the use of the public ; but this intention he was not permitted by the Governt. to carry into effect. He has, after the Medinaceli, the greatest estate, but the Infantado is the most unincumbered at present. Marques de Penaflel his eldest son. A young man of 18, married to a granddaughter of the Dss. of Infantado's. He is, like his brother Grandees, of diminutive stature ; his manner is good, owing to great pains having been bestowed upon his education and his excursion to Paris. Don Pedro Giron. ' Perico ' commonly called by his intimates. Sprightly, fond of dancing, and rather clever. Madame Camarasa, eldest daughter. Mde. Santa Cruz, 2nd daughter. She is very beautiful ; a most engaging, captivating smile when she speaks. I have a portrait of her in the Spanish costume, full length in miniature ; she sat for it 32 times ! Slow as this may appear, the artist was a Frenchman with whom I had a difference about the price, he having charged exorbitantly. As it was, I paid four times its value for the picture, £120. El Conde de Haro, 1 of the House of Velasco, eldest son of the D. de Frias, an empty, chattering coxcomb. Duke of Medinaceli, a bigot ; blind, and nearly 1 D. Bernardino Fernandez de Velasco, who succeeded his father in 181 1 as XIV Duque de Frias. Born in 1783. He was appointed Ambassador in London 1820, in Paris 1834, and held several offices of state. DUKE OF MEDINACELI 197 imbecile. It happened whilst we were at Madrid that several religious processions were suppressed by the order of the Govt, (as from time to time they are doing), and among the rest, one which belonged to the D. in consequence of having witnessed the miraculous power of the image. Whereupon he requested the Queen, in a very humble petition, to interfere to preserve the procession, and enumerated the miracles the Saint had worked, one of which was performed in his presence, namely that of arresting the progress of a conflagration in the town. He is Alguacil Mayor of the Inquisition, and ought to have assisted at an auto-da-fe which happened during our stay, but in consequence of some slight he received from the Holy Office, he neither assisted in person, nor allowed his son to officiate for him. The Duchess is the heiress of the House of Santistevan : a clumsy, vulgar woman. The palace is immense ; 500 servants with their wives and children are lodged within it. There are tailors and shoemakers and many other mechanics living in the house, and employed only for the family. Every article of furniture almost is furnished from the estates of the family, and worked by his people ; the marble from his quarries, the wood from his forests, the silk hangings from his estates and looms, the cloth and linen from his wool and flax. The mirrors only are from the Royal manufacture of San Ildefonso. They alone keep up a sort of sovereign state, formerly more common among the Grandees than at present. The D. and Dss. are served at table by gentlemen on their bended knees. They are both narrow-minded and illiterate, and associate with none of their equals, being constantly surrounded by monks and priests. The Medinaceli estates are the greatest in Spain. Among many great Houses sunk in Medinaceli, is Cardona, in Cataluna. As Cerdas they claim to be the rightful heirs of Castile, and 198 LADY HOLLAND'S JOURNAL tl8 o 4 on the day when the King is proclaimed the old custom is still retained of erecting a gallows opposite to the Medina- celi palace, and in taking the oath of fealty they present a protest against this act being construed into a renun- ciation of their claims. They have the armoury, in which there is a curious collection of ancient armour, and some good bas-reliefs. Marques de Cogolludo} their son and only child, preferred a religious wife to a pretty one ; he was engaged to marry Mde. de Santa Cruz. Duque de Hijar. 2 The first of the old Grandees who condescended to tutoyer the P. of the Peace, and that immediately after the banishment of his son-in-law, the Conde de Aranda. His son, the D. of Aliaga, a heavy, clumsy figure. Two years ago he acted Cupid in one of his own plays. The Dss., his wife, is daughter of the House of Berwick, the brutally treated favorite of Don Diego Godoy, brother to the P. of the Peace. Mde. Fontanar. Handsome figure, mistress to Ld. Bute, and expected to be married to him. Very dissi- pated, dances and dresses in perfection. Mde. Santiago. Very profligate and loose in her manners and conversation, and scarcely admitted into female society. As the late Dss. of Alba and the Dow. Marquesa de Santa Cruz, however they may have indulged themselves, never wantonly violated decency in their 1 D. Luis Joaquin, Duque de Cogolludo (1780-1840), who succeeded his father in 1806 as XIV Duque de Medinaceli. He married, in 1802, Da. Maria de la Conception Ponce de Leon y Carvajal, daughter of the Duque de Montemar. 2 D. Augustin Pedro Alcantara Fadrique Fernandez de Hijar Abarca de Bolea, X Duque de Hijar, who married Da: Rafaela de Palafox, daughter of VI Marques de Ariza. His eldest son D. Augustin Pedro Fernandez de Hijar, Duque de Aliaga, and later XI Duque de Hijar, married, in 1790, Da. Maria Fernanda Stuart, daughter of IV Duque de Liria. He died in 1817. ME. DE SANTIAGO 199 conversation or deportment, but the Santiago is said to boast of her nocturnal revels. She is immensely rich. Her husband is a well-bred man, a Navarrese. Mde. de Xaruja. Very beautiful, but too large. Extremely voluptuous, and entirely devoted to the passion of love. She was in England some years ago. Her husband is at Vera Cruz. Her eldest daughter is the most magnificent glowing beauty I ever beheld ; the offspring of the Sun. Mile. Bouligny, daughter of a Grecian lady, un- commonly modest and pretty. Mile. Ne vanes and various other pretty young women danced and appeared at the balls. The other handsome women were Mesdames de Aguilar, Villa- Vicenza {sic), Zayas, Fernan-Nufiez, &c, &c. M. de Fernan-Nufiez, son of the Ambassador at Paris. Gentlemanlike person, countenance that denotes more sense than he possesses. Acosta, settled at Valladolid Men malgre lui ; married a camarista in the expectation of a good post, in which he has been disappointed. Don Alfonso Pignatelli, 1 brother to Mora ; very great reputation for successful amours, not very respectable character. Count Fuentes y Mora. Came to England to marry Miss Beckford ; checked by her refusal. Handsome and noble in his manners. Very rich, powerful, and of consequence. Don Antonio Capmany, the historian of Barcelona, a Catalan, about 60 years of age. A man of extraordinary wit and vivacity, and of uncommon order of mind. 1 D. Alfonso Pignatelli de Egmont y Moncayo succeeded his brother D. Armando as XIX Conde de Fuentes and Marques de Coscojuela y Mora. See ante, p. 6. LADY HOLLAND'S JOURNAL 1808-1809 During the three years which had passed since the Hollands left Spain in 1805, many events of importance had taken place in that country and in Portugal. War had broken out between England and Spain early in 1805, but Napoleon's hopes of a naval supremacy had been dashed to the ground by the defeat of the joint fleets of France and Spain at Trafalgar. Godoy himself, though nominally in alliance with France, was casting about for means of escape from the thraldom of the Emperor ; while Ferdinand the heir-apparent was openly desirous of peace, and looked to an alliance with England as the only means of saving his country. For Napoleon's plans for bringing the whole of the Peninsula under his sway had gradually been maturing. Portugal had been occupied by Junot in 1807 with a large force of French troops, and the Royal family had been forced to take refuge across the seas in far distant Brazil. Nominally for that purpose troops had been massed in Spain, but it ere long became plain to all observers that the yoke of France was soon to be extended over her so-called ally. Events played into the Emperor's hands, and dissentions between Charles IV and Ferdinand made it easy for him to entice them both across the frontier to Bayonne, there to submit to whatever terms he chose to dictate. The folly and instability of the rulers of Spain was easily overcome, but not so the people themselves. The rising i8o8] STATE OF SPAIN 201 in Madrid of the ' Dos de Mayo ' was but a signal for similar riots and insurrections in every part of the country. Emissaries were sent early in May (1808) from the Northern provinces to England to ask for aid. The Government was sufficiently impressed by their patriotic spirit and earnestness of purpose to decide upon affording immediate assistance. Money and arms in large quantities were sent out ; while agents, both military and civil, were dispatched to the various provinces to confer with the Spanish leaders. At the same time a force collected for other employment was diverted to Portugal. They were landed in July, and under Wellesley defeated Junot at Vimiero. The Convention of Cintra followed, and secured the evacuation of Portugal by the French. After the abdication of the Spanish Bourbons Napoleon had given the crown to his brother Joseph, whose entry into his capital in July took place at an inauspicious moment. Throughout the summer the Spanish armies had more than held their own : but within ten days of his arrival came the news of Dupont's capitulation at Baylen, and the new king was forced again to retire behind the Ebro. It was at this period that the Hollands embarked on their second visit to the Peninsula. Their decision to under- take the journey was probably made some months previously, and it is likely that Lord John Russell was induced to join their party when the Hollands were staying at Woburnin July. He accompanied them throughout the expedition, and also kept a journal of their movements, which is quoted by Sir Spencer Walpole in his Life. Lord Holland was in close touch with the Spanish emissaries during their stay in England. The glowing accounts of the enthusiasm and successes of their compatriots would have eradicated any fears which might have arisen, regarding the advisability of attempting the journey at such a time and the probable difficulties of travel. It was not then known that Napoleon was straining every nerve to revenge the recent checks sustained by his arms in the Peninsula, and many months had elapsed before the real numbers of the French troops in Spain were even suspected in England. The Hollands left London for Falmouth on Oct. 9, but it was not until the first days of November that they landed 202 LADY HOLLAND'S JOURNAL [0c t. at Coruna. The complexion of affairs in Spain had assumed a more serious aspect during those weeks of waiting, owing to the increased activity of the French. Sir John Moore had taken over, early in October, the command in Portugal of the British troops destined for an advance to Madrid and the Ebro. The intelligence as to the best routes for his troops to follow was lamentably scarce, and neither the Spanish nor Portuguese authorities seemed able to give him any informa- tion as to the state of the roads. What little knowledge Moore could obtain was faulty, and he was thereby induced to send his cavalry and artillery under Hope by the circuitous route of Elvas and Escorial to join at Salamanca the rest of his force, which was moving by the direct routes to that city. Of necessity a long delay occurred in this way, which completely altered the character of the campaign. To co-operate in the North with Moore and effect a junction with him as soon as practicable, a force of over 12,000 troops under Sir David Baird were shipped from England to Coruna. The first transports arrived there on Oct. 13, but owing to the action of the Spanish authorities, no troops were landed until Oct. 26. The disembarkation of the infantry was only concluded on Nov. 4, the date upon which Lady Holland again takes up her pen. On Sunday, 9th October, we set off to Falmouth in hopes of being able to get there in time to embark with the expedition to Spain. Our party consisted of ourselves Mr. Allen, Chester, and Ld. John Russell (who overtook us near Andover), 2 maids, and five men ; two carriages only, being resolved to take as few persons and incum- brances as possible. On the road near Bridport, we heard of the departure of the expedition, but nevertheless continued hastening on to Falmouth in hopes some lagging transports might remain for a convoy. Reached Falmouth early on Thursday ; pleasantly lodged in a house at the skirts of the town. We had obtained Ld. Mulgrave's * permission to go in any King's ship, so 1 Lord Mulgrave was First Lord of the Admiralty from 1807 till i8o8] CAPTAIN PARKER 203 our only difficulty was to get an accommodating captain. Fortunately Edward Young received Admiralty orders to send round from Plymouth the Amazon to convoy four transports which had arrived, like ourselves, too late. The commander, Capt. Parker, 1 offered us a passage. At length after waiting upwards of a fort- night, on Sunday, the 30th, we embarked on board the Amazon. After a delightful passage of five days, we reached Corufia. I never thought it could have been possible to have felt regret at leaving a ship, but Capt. Parker's was so pleasant that longer stay even on board would not have been irksome. He is a nephew of Ld. St. Vincent's, and he has the reputation of being worthy of his relation- ship. 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