Parish life in the north of scotland
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| On the opposite side of the river, and also on a wooded eminence, is the township of Learabail, and, according to a tradition, at this place the passage terminated. The story is said to be as follows: Two calves, browsing on a field near the eastern entrance of the passage, began to skip about and chase each other, until at last the one after the other ran in at the opening, and there being then no obstruction, the animals pursued their course inside. Their entrance into the cave was noticed by two girls employed in looking after the cattle, and they both immediately ran after the calves for the purpose of bringing them back. 'The girls kept together until they had got to nearly the middle of the passage, when the foremost in pursuit, along with the calves, suddenly disappeared and were never more heard of. The other girl, horror-struck, went on groping her way in the darkness until she found her further progress prevented by the termination of the passage. Feeling about with her hands, she found that she was in a chamber of considerable size, but very low and roofed with flags. About the middle of the roof she found that one flag, was moveable by the pressure of her hand; she also heard the sound of voices above her. Exerting all her strength to raise the loose flag, she at the same time screamed for help.
As the story goes, this subterraneous chamber was situated precisely under the hearth of one of the tenants of Learabail, who, at the time that the cry was uttered, and his hearthstone thus disturbed, was, with his wife and family, quietly seated at the fireside. The cry from beneath, and the earthquake-like movement, came upon the tenant and his family like a thunderclap. At once concluding that it was a domiciliary visit from the spirits of the deep, they all started up, and, in answer to the poor girl's cries for help, they only uttered a roar of terror and bolted from. the house. The desperate girl at length succeeded in raising the hearthstone and placing herself by the fireside. To the inmates of the dwelling, after their fears had subsided so far as to allow them to have speech with her, she gave an account of her appalling adventures. Her lost companion, it is said, was the daughter of a witch who, in a fatal hour, had promised her daughter to the devil. Under the semblance of the two calves the Evil One had come to claim his own. The place was, in memory of the event, called the maidens' field. Below the wooded bank on which it is situated, the bed of the river is one continued ledge of rocks, which extends for nearly three miles down its course. Surrounded with wood on the east side of the river, and just below the last-named spot, is a fairy-like place called Achahemisgach, at the upper end of which is a rock with the form of a cross engraved upon it. This evidently must have been some place of sanctity in popish times, especially as the name of the adjoining wood is Coille 'Chill' Mer, or, the wood of the cell of Mary. Learabail, on the opposite bank, was a township of considerable extent. At its east end a large and rapid burn, rising some miles distant, and making its impetuous way over many rocks which cross its channel, runs into the Helmisdale. The banks of the burn at Learaboll are romantic. In some parts they are fifty feet in height, and are composed partly of shattered rocks, and partly of abrupt precipices of gravel, here and there interspersed with clumps of tall birch trees and quaking ash. One place, where the burn tumbles over a rock into a deep pool, is said to be haunted by the vindictive spirit of a young woman who was forsaken by her lover, and died of a broken heart. At set times of the year, at the waning of the moon, her moan has been heard mingling with the hoarse_ murmur of the stream, imprecating woes upon her faithless lover. From the left bank of this stream, and parallel to its course, Craig Dalangail, a huge rocky hill, suddenly rears up its majestic form. It rises from base to summit almost perpendicular, and all over its rugged front displays the channels of the impetuous torrents which fill them during the floods of spring and winter. This mountain forms the western barrier of the vale of Kildonan. At its base is the small farm of Dalangail, from which it derives its name. For upwards of a century this place was in the possession of a family named Gunn. A little below Dalangail, the river after flowing over a rocky bottom for upwards of two miles, is hemmed closely in between two rocks, and thence the whole volume of the stream rushes down with a slight fall and great impetuosity. This rapid is called Leum Hennrig (or Henry's Leap), from the following circumstances. Henry Gunn, a younger son of the tenant of Dalangail, a strong, athletic, and handsome young man, was in the habit, while the rest of his father's family went round by a wooden bridge to the church, of taking a short cut by leaping from rock to rock over the rapid. One fatal morning, when the family entered their seat, Henry to their surprise was not there; uneasy about him, they found on their return that their worst apprehensions were realized. Before leaping, he had as usual put off his shoes and hose, and thrown them to the rock opposite. There they were found by his sorrowing friends, while his dead body lay sixty yards below. The river in its course now approaches the glebe. About a quarter of a mile above it is another picturesque fall about twelve feet in height, just at the angle where the river makes a rapid bend from N.E. to S.W. During the winter floods, the immense volume of water compelled, by the bend in the river's course, to turn suddenly off from its natural direction, the height of the fall, the rugged and shelving rocks over which the stream flings itself with such rapidity and violence, the stunning roar of the waters, and the spray shooting up from them as from a boiling cauldron, all combine to present to the beholder a scene of imposing grandeur and even of terror. In the drought of summer, however, the scene is entirely changed. The river then nearly disappears in its deep central channel, and in its wider bed which, during that season, is almost dry, are seen a number of holes scooped out of the rocks as with a chisel. During the summer the salmon may be seen trying to leap the fall, and after two or three attempts they succeed. Poachers made this cascade their principal resort for killing salmon, which they effected with spears and hooks as the fish leaped up the rocks. Below the Slugaig, as this place of cup-like hollows is called, an immense block of whinstone, at least 12 or 14 feet high, rests in the middle of the river's bed. This was used as a river-gauge; if the water covered more than two-thirds of this boulder, the river was considered to be unfordable throughout its whole extent; but if, during a flood, the stone disappeared altogether, then it might be taken for granted that the river had overflowed its banks on the low grounds, and laid the lands of Strathuilligh under water. At the western extremity of the glebe a rocky islet stands in the centre of one of the deepest pools in the river, and from each side of it to the rocks on the opposite banks were thrown wooden bridges made of immense logs of fir found in the moss. This was the only part of the river crossed by a bridge; all the other crossings were fords. From the circumstance that two bridges were here necessary to effect the passage of the stream, the place was called Poll-da-chraig, or pool of the two rocks. Its depth is above 30 feet. From this pool the river, in its course, forms the western and southern boundaries of the glebe. On its right bank, and close by Poll-da -chraig, was a small farm called Dalbheag, so named from a stream which descended from the hill behind, and which, when in flood, laid the greater part of its soil under water. To the west and south, and rising abruptly from the margin of .the river, is a wooded hill, Coille-an-Loiste, directly in front of the manse, and forming its south prospect; it extends from the southern limb of Craig Dalangail about two miles to the eastward. Right opposite the manse and church a waterfall is seen through the foliage, which produces an enchanting effect. Above the wooded bank, to the south-west, is the hill of Craggie, while over the ridge of Coillean-Loiste appears the conical hill of Craggan-mor, 1581 feet high. Due east is a mountainous range, including Beinn-na-h' Urrachd, 2046 feet high; Beimi Mheulaich, 1940 feet high; and Cnoc Earnain and Cnoc Tuaraidh , the first of which may be about 1043 and the latter 1163 feet high; while still farther east on the south side of the Strath, and terminating the range within the limits of the parish, is Cnoc Eildirebail, 1338 feet in height. The topographical appearance of the sweep of the river around the grassy flat of the Dalmore, with its wooded bank just beyond, and this beautiful mountain range towering above all to the south and east, is one of the most attractive prospects in the Highlands. A little below the manse the river receives another of its chief tributaries in the Tealnaidh, or water of Loist (now Craggie burn). This stream rises to the west, in the hills which form the boundary between the parishes of Kildonan and Clyne. One of its sources is in the hill Innis Mhor, at the foot of which is the sequestrated spot of Tuaraidh. Another branch rises on the hill above Gordonbush in Strathbrora, and both streams uniting, flow through Strath Tealnaidh, in which are the townships of Halgarry, Achrintill, and Preaschoin. This strath is heathy and wild at its upper extremity, but, as the stream approaches unction with the Helmisdale, it becomes romantic and beautiful. At the place of Craggie, the banks of the burn are thickly wooded; Achabhataich, a mile or two below, is a beautiful sylvan retreat. The stream afterwards enters a deep rocky dell, of which the precipitous banks nearly meet, whilst the stream far beneath, struggling and forcing its way over every rocky ledge that crosses its channel, is often rendered invisible by the shivering foliage of the aspens which grow luxuriantly from the face of the rocks. As it enters the farm of Loiste, almost a dead flat, the Craggie becomes a placid stream, a thick, close hedge-row of tall alder trees growing on each bank. During its course of nearly eight miles it receives about seven tributary streams, the last of which deserves to be named, not only from its size, but also from its source. It is a considerable body of water, and rises at the extreme west point of Beinn h'-Urrachd. It there issues from a well, situated at the bottom of an immense hollow or dell, called Coire-mor, which resembles a bowl or funnel, and which by an English sportsman many years ago, from its singular appearance, was fancifully termed the devil's punch-bowl. The Craggie enters the Helmisdale at a place called Torr-daraich (or the oak knowe ), and here commences what is usually called Strath Uilligh, or the Strath of Helmisdale, through which that river flows for upwards of eight miles till it enters the sea. I may name the townships on its banks, and its tributary streams from Torrdaraich to its mouth. About a mile below is Bad-fluich (or wet tuft), so called from the marshy ground by which it is surrounded, and about half a mile below that is the place of Kilearnain (or the cell of St. Earnan), through which runs a burn rising at the base of Cnoc Earnain. The place of Kilearnain was a township of great extent, accommodating about nine tenants. Another tributary stream of the Helmisdale runs into it at Gaillebail (the township or farm of the stranger); it rises out of the east shoulder of Beinn Mheulaich. As it passes the place of Gaillebail, the river is of immense depth, and for some miles assumes the appearance of a lake; this part of it was, therefore, called by the inhabitants Am-Bagh-mor (or the great bay), and for angling it was reckoned the best part of the stream. Below Gaillebail three miles is the place of Ulbster (or in Gaelic Ullabisdale), a name of unknown etymology, through which a foaming rapid burn, rising at the west shoulder of Cnoc Eildirebail, rushes into the river. At the eastern extremity of the hill is the place of Eildirebail, a most romantic spot, situated upon an eminence about 50 feet above the bed of the river, and thickly wooded. The burn of Eildirebail is almost one continued fall from its source to its junction with the river. On this part of the strath the sun is, in winter, never seen, owing to the height of this hill; it has therefore been called "an taobh dorch" (or the dark side). Other two places on the south bank of the river, and within the limits of Kildonan parish, are Gradsary and Marill, but at neither of them does the river receive any addition to its waters. Such is the south side of the Strath of Helmisdale; the north side begins at Kildonan. There the river receives a large accession to its size in the burn of Kildonan, which has its first source on the south side of Cnoc-an-Eireannaich, and about two miles on its course passes through Ach 'chroidhbhothan (or the field of cattle booths), a hill grazing or shieling, so called because the minister and tenants of Kildonan sent thither in summer their milk cows and young cattle, attended by their cow-herds and dairymaids, who then lived in booths. In its course from this place to its junction with the river this stream receives many additions to its waters. The largest of its tributaries rises in a deep dell to the eastward named Allt-uchdaraidh, formed by the junction at their lowest points of two high hills. Of these the one to the north, on the boundary line between Sutherland and Caithness, has on its summit a pyramidal rock with two tops, called "suidh an fhir bhig," (or "the seat of the little man"). The hill to the south is long and high, rising abruptly from its base to about 1600 feet above the level of the sea, and is called Cnoc-leathaid-an-t' sholuis (or the hill of the slope of light), from its southerly exposure. On its right bank the burn of Kildonan is joined by a small stream at the pasture above mentioned, by another further down called Allt-blar-clais-a-choire, by still another called Caochan-ri-nam-braoinan, and about two miles below that, on the left bank, by Allt-clais-nam-breac, which runs from a valley where the tenantry of Kildonan cut their peats, called Clais-nam-breac. As the burn approaches Kildonan, it considerably increases in size, and its banks become romantic and interesting. The whole of its course is through a dreary, heathy waste, but as it passes Clais-nam-breac, it flows far below the level of its banks, and then rolls at the base of the hill Craig-an-ra' (or the rock of defence). On the top of this hill the foundations may be seen of a number of enclosures running into each other, covering a surface of many acres, and exhibiting the appearance of an encampment. About the beginning of the 17th century many bloody conflicts took place between the Earls of Sutherland and Caithness, and it is probable that this spot was the entrenched camp of one of the hostile parties. At the point where it emerges out of the deep dell, the burn tumbles over a rock, about fourteen feet high, forming a beautiful cascade, usually called Ath-struthadh. The place is also called Eas-na-caoraich-duibhe (the cascade of the black sheep), owing to the circumstance of a black sheep having been carried down the stream over the fall, and, after getting a hearty ducking at its foot, having yet escaped with her life. Nothing can exceed the beauty of this spot. To the north-west towers up, at least 800 feet, the shoulder of Craig-an-ra' rising like a huge wall from one side of the water-fall; on the other is a conical hill, much resembling an ancient tumulus, and exhibiting all its regularity. From the face of the rocky precipice on which this conical hill rests, a birch tree shoots out diagonally, throwing itself across the fall, so that in summer the foaming torrent is seen through its foliage. The base of the fall where it enters the pool below, is concealed by a ledge of rock, so that the water appears to be falling into a cavern in the earth. To the west of the cascade, and running at the base of Craig-an-ra' is the dell of Clais-nam-meirleach. The burn of Kildonan then takes a south-easterly direction. On its east side is a high hill, at least 1000 feet in height, which terminates in an abrupt precipice about a mile to the east of the manse. This hill is called Coire-mor, and the top of it, which, right above the place of Kildonan, rises into a conical point, is called Cnoc-na-h' Iolair (or the eagle's hill.). The burn now enters another rocky dell, called Creig-an-fhithich (or the raven's rock), which is about a quarter of a mile in length from north to south. This craig forms the eastern bank of the burn, and presents throughout its whole extent a continued series of bold and rugged, but romantic precipices about thirty feet high above the margin of the burn, and exhibiting, by the tortuous course of the stream at its base, the appearance of the bastions of a garrison. About the middle of it, the rock rises to a point, on which are the remains of a castle. An affecting tale is connected with it. A huntsman started a fox from about the summit of Coire-mor, and his gallant hounds instantly gave chase. The hunted animal took the direction of the raven's rock, and, arriving at the ruins of the dun, precipitated himself headlong into an aperture in the walls. One of the huntsman's favourite hounds immediately followed him into the opening. The fox, being short and slim, made his way into a vault below, from which he afterwards contrived to escape; but the hound stuck fast, and his master could neither reach him nor employ any means for his rescue, so that death, in a few days, put an end to the creature's sufferings. The raven's rock terminates to the east of Torr-an-riachaidh. The burn was there formed into a deep pool, called Poll-na-h'ellich, by a strong stone barrier thrown across its channel, in order to convey the water to the mill of Kildonan, situated about 700 yards below. The burn, in its course to its junction with the river, forms the boundary between the glebe and the township of Kildonan. At the time of my father's settlement, this place was occupied by eight tenants, who, soon after his coming into the parish, became his sub-tenants. About 20 yards to the east of the church, the burn enters the Helmisdale, where, with a considerable declivity, its course turns from due east to southeast, forming a rapid called Struthadh-an-fhuarain. On the banks of the river, from Struthadh-an-fhuarain, extending for a mile down its course, lay the lands, or run-rigs of the Kildonan tenants. The eastern extremity of their land was occupied by the Eilean, a swampy, wooded marsh, covered with bushes of the black willow; where also, during the rainy season, a considerable quantity of water lodged, dropping from the neighbouring heights. A large cairn, upon an eminence, stood near the centre of it. In the vicinity of the Eilean was the place of Halgary, under the precipice which terminates the hill of Coire-mh6r. Below this place, and nearly opposite Loist, the river had, during the winter floods, cut out two channels, and formed an island. Here, by the division of the current, the river was fordable, and the ford was named Athan-preas-na-suidheig (or, ford of the raspberry bushes). Below Halgary was the place of Di-bail (want or robbery), lying close on the left bank of the river and opposite Badfluich. The road to Helmisdale from Kildonan lay along the left bank of the river, and passed through the several townships situated upon it. Close to Di-bail was a pool of water, formed by the rills which rush down from the braes above it, and which had an outlet into the river, fordable only at one point, called Stair-Di-bail (the steps of Di-bail). Immediately behind the townships on this side of the river, the ground is much elevated, presenting steep declivities fronting the south. Above Dibail, rises Bein Dubhain, so called from its close resemblance to a hook, and at its base is the place of Costly. Farther down the river are Leodan and the township of Dalhalmy. The river, as it passes this last place, is very deep, and not fordable. Immediately below, it forms another island about 60 yards long and 20 broad. Balbheallach is the next township, and immediately to the east of it, a rapid torrent descends from the hill to the river, which in summer is perfectly dry, but during the rainy season comes down in spate, and not only cuts up the road so much as to render it impassable, but covers the arable land around it, to the extent of many acres, with shingle and peat. A mile or two below Balbheallach a burn of considerable size enters the river, having its head waters between Cnoc-Salaslaid (1581 feet high), and Beinn Dubhain, called Allt-breac. To the west of the influx of this burn into the river, near a small lake situated on a high bank, are two or three huge blocks of stone, in the form of a chair or seat, called "Cathair-Dhonain"(or, the the chair of St. Donan), after whom the parish has been called KilDhonian (or, the cell of St. Donan). Donan was evidently the first Christian teacher who came to instruct the savage hordes inhabiting this district. Towards them he seems to have acted in the double capacity of a religious teacher and a civil magistrate. At his cell therefore he inculcated the truths of the Christian religion, and seated on his stone chair at this spot he administered the laws. In my younger days, there were many traditions of him afloat in the locality. One of these was that, after his death, none could be found to fill his place so as to exert the moral influence which he exercised over the minds of the people. His successor therefore caused a wooden image of him to be made, with features of countenance hideous and frightful. If any man proved refractory, he was immediately locked up in the church, or cell, at Kildonan, alone with this representat-on of St. Donan, during the silence of the night, and the consequences invariably were that, when brought forth from his confinement next day, the features of the saint, and the death-like stillness of the cell had reduced him to absolute obedience. The cell, as well as the whole parish, from this circumstance was called Kil-duranach, (or the sullen cell, as it means in ancient Celtic). A few miles below Cathair-Dhonain, still on the north side of the river is the farm of Torruis, where another stream enters the Helmisdale. This is a large burn rising between Cnoc-Salaslaid and Creag-an-Scalmasdale. This latter mountain rises up to the height of 1819 feet, in the form of a truncated cone, and is composed of what appears to be one solid mass of granite, without vegetation of any kind. At the foot of this mountain, was the farm of Scalmasdale, on the edge of the lake of the same name. The burn, avoiding the high ground to the south of it, takes a south-easterly direction through a valley, and then turning south, after a course of about six miles, precipitates itself over a rock, thus forming a very picturesque fall. Quarter of a mile further down, it enters the river at west end of Torruis, called Torr-na-gaibhre (or goat's knowe). A streamlet also entered the river at the east end of Torruis, where the houses or cottages of the tenantry were built closely together. Here the strath becomes beautifully wooded with the black willow, oak, aspen, alder, and wild gean, the mountain ash, or rowan, the black flowering-thorn, and the birch tree. This tract of woodland extends about a mile-and-a-half down the course of the Helmisdale to the place of Kilphedder, a lovely spot, past which a rushing torrent breaks through the copse-wood on its way to the river. The burn of Kilphedder, a little further down, turned a mill, built there for the accommodation of the inhabitants of the lower part of the strath. The place of Kilphedder is interesting, not only from its romantic scenery, but from its historical associations. As the river flows past, it again divides its channel, and, nearly in the centre of the stream, forms a beautifully wooded island rising from the level of the water to a ridge about 20 feet in height. The mill was situated at the foot of a cataract, rushing over shelving rocks and huge blocks of whinstone, and all were embosomed in wood. Download 1.26 Mb. Share with your friends:
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