Parish life in the north of scotland
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| Mr. Andrew Thomson of Greyfriars was then scarcely known, although afterwards he became so celebrated as a minister and a controversialist. Mr. (afterwards Dr.) Henry Grey, a native of England, and minister for only a few years of some Scottish parish on the borders. was appointed, during my last year at the Edinburgh College, to the Chapel of Ease connected with the parish of St. Cuthbert. I heard him preach his first sermon after his induction; it was evangelical and ingenious.
Dr. Fleming was the minister of Lady Yester's; 9: I was his hearer now and then. He was a plain and unsophisticated, but the very reverse of either a lively or a powerful, preacher of the pure evangel. He had been translated many years before to the city from a country charge in Fifeshire. At the Edinburgh Hall I only delivered a lecture, and this, together with a homily which I delivered at Aberdeen, were the only pieces of trial I ever gave during my six years' attendance at the theological classes. The courses of study were not in those days so strictly looked after, either by synods or presbyteries, as now. I attended the Church History Class when in Edinburgh, then taught by Dr. Hugh Meiklejohn of Aberdeen. Discourses were delivered by the students in his class also. He received the student's manuscript, brooded over it for about a week, and then read aloud in the class a carefully composed, written critique which he had concocted upon it. His criticisms and lectures, however, were uninteresting, tedious and prosing, as he evidently had the art of speaking, utterly irrespective of the art of thinking. But reminiscences of my student life in Edinburgh are not very pleasant to recall, owing to a nervous disorder from which I then suffered. I could not sleep at night. To the very top of Arthur's Seat at two or three o'clock in the morning was my usual stroll in quest of health and an ordinary appetite; there I would remain sitting on one of its highest peaks, and watching the dawn of day, 1: William Laurence Brown, D.D., was born in Utrecht in 1755. He became minister of the English Church, and professor in the University of Utrecht. In consequence of the war which followed the French Revolution, he was obliged to leave Holland, and in 1795 was appointed Professor of Divinity in Marischal College and Principal of the University. He died in 1830. 2: Gilbert Gerard, D.D., born in Aberdeen, was for a few years minister of the Scotch Church, Amsterdam. In 1791 he was elected Professor of Greek in King's College; in 1795, appointed successor to his father in the Chair of Divinity; and in 1811, inducted to the 2nd charge of Old Machar Church. In 1808 he published his principal work, entitled "Institutes of Biblical Criticism." He died in 1815. 3: Dr. William Ritchie was translated from St. Andrew's Church, Glasgow, to the High Church, Edinburgh, and on 10th May, 1809, was elected Professor of Divinity in the Edinburgh University, which position he held in conjunction with his parochial charge. He died at Tarbolton, where his ministry began, on 29th Jan., 1830. His statement before the Glasgow Presbytery as to the use of an organ in St. Andrew's Church was printed and circulated. 4: Dr. George Mackay, minister of Rafford, was son of the minister of Reay, and received his elementary education at the parish school, Reay, under Mr. John Tulloch, who afterwards became Professor of Mathematics, King's College, Aberdeen. He connected himself in 184.3 with the Free Church of Scotland, of which he became the minister at Rafford, and died 19th Jan., 1862, in the 71st year of his age and 46th of his ministry. His son David succeeded him. 5: Dr. Wm. Simpson had been translated from Newbattle to Lady Yester's, and from thence, in 1789, to the Tron Kirk. He died 24th Jan., 1831, in the 87th year of his age and the 60th of his ministry. 6: Dr. Alex. Brunton was translated from New Greyfriars to the Tron Kirk on 23rd Nov., 1809, and elected professor of Oriental Languages in Edinburgh University on 19th May, 1813. He became a moderator of the General Assembly, and for 13 Years in succession was convener of the Assembly's Committee on India Missions. He died near Cupar-Angus 9th Feb., 1834, in the 52nd year of his age and 57th of his ministry. His wife was the only daughter of Col. Thomas Balfour of Elwick. A third work of hers was entitled "Emiline." She died 19th Dec., 1818, aged 40 years. 7: Dr. Thomas Davidson was born in 1747 at Inchture, Perthshire, of which parish his father, Thomas Randall, was minister. Educated at Glasgow and Leyden Universities, he was appointed to succeed his father at Inchture. In 1773 he was translated to the outer High Church, Glasgow; he afterwards became minister of Lady Yester's, and, in 1785, of the Tolbooth Church, Edinburgh. Though extremely modest in his demeanour, he exercised a powerful influence for good among all ranks in Edinburgh by the elevation of his Christian character, and his diligence in pastoral work. His second wife was a sister of Lord Cockburn. He died in 1827. (See "Dictionary of National Biography," edited by Mr. Leslie Stephen.) 8: Sir Henry Moncreiff Wellwood of Tullibole, Bart., D.D., was translated from Blackford to the West Kirk (St. Cuthbert's) Edinburgh, 20th Oct., 1775, and was appointed joint convener of Ministers' Widows' Fund in 1784, to which he rendered important services. He died 9th Aug., 1827, in the 78th year of his age and 50th of his ministry. He took a prominent part in all schemes devised for the true welfare of mankind. The title and estates were inherited by his son, Mr. James Moncreiff , advocate, an influential and powerful debater on the evangelical side in the church until he became a Lord of Session; he died in 1853. Lord Moncreiff had two sons, who also rose to eminence, viz., Sir Henry Wellwood Moncreiff, Bart., D.D., of the Free West Church, Edinburgh; and the Right Hon. James Moncreiff, who became Lord Justice Clerk and a Peer of the realm. 9: Dr. Thomas Fleming had been minister of Kirkcaldy, from which he was translated, in 1806, to Edinburgh; be died 19th June, 1824, in the 70th year of his age and 40th of ministry. Benevolent in disposition, he interested himself chiefly in the charitable institutions of Edinburgh. He translated the "Westminster Shorter Catechism into Gaelic." CHAPTER XIII SUTHERLANDSHIRE; "FIRST CLEARANCE." 1813-1815. AFTER returning to abide once more under my paternal roof nothing particularly occurs to my recollection but my studies in the garret which my brother and I had so long tenanted as our waking and sleeping room. There, long after his departure, I studied alone, preparing myself for my respective courses at college, my discourses for the ball, and my trial exercises for the presbytery. About the middle of summer, after I returned from Stempster, two young female relatives of ours paid us a visit, Miss Alexa Anderson and Miss Fairly Gordon. Lexy Anderson was the daughter of Mr. James Anderson, brother of the overseer of the salmon-fishings at Invershin. He first held the farm of Rispond in the Reay Country, where he not only carried on agricultural but also commercial speculations, dealt much in the cod fishery, in which he employed much shipping, and for the accommodation of which he built a pier and formed a village at Rispond. Mr. Anderson afterwards leased the farm of Ausdale in Caithness from Sir John Sinclair. After building upon it a most substantial dwelling-house, office-houses, sheep-fanks or folds, and cultivating not a little of the surrounding moor, he gave it up in disgust and took a, farm in the Orkneys, which inn a few years thereafter, he also relinquished and then retired to his native county to end his days. He was thrice married. Of his first wife I know nothing. His second wife was my cousin-german, Fairly Gordon of Clerkhill, daughter of George Gordon of Pulrossie. By her he had a son Charles who entered the army, also a son Thomas who resides at Stromness, a decidedly pious man. Mr. Anderson's only daughter by this marriage was Alexa, who, along with Fairly Gordon, second daughter of Captain William Gordon of Clerkhill was our visitant at Kildonan. She was exceedingly good-humoured, and in her manners very pleasing and attractive. After they had resided nearly a week at Kildonan, my eldest sister and I accompanied them to Clerkhill. It was on a beautiful summer day that we set out upon our journey. Our visitors had their own horses and a Clerkhill servant; my sister rode one of my father's garrons, and I was provided with a good, stout, Highland pony by Alastair Gordon of Dalcharn. Our progress was such as might be expected; the extent of moor and moss, and the depth of the fens, bogs, and peat-hags are almost inconceivable. A stranger wending his way through these all. but interminable wastes, without often so much as a sheep-track to guide him, might just sit down and die. But with all its marshy mazes the natives were just as familiarly acquainted as is the post-boy with the high-road which he daily perambulates. We did not know the road or even the direction which we were to pursue; but the Clerkhill man knew every step of it, and guided us through fell and fen with unerring skill. Our route lay through the heights of Kildonan, by Suisgill, Kinbrace, Ach-na- h'uaighe, Garvoll'd, until we came to the boundary line between the parishes of Kildonan and Farr, which consists of the celebrated pass of Beallach-nan-creach, through which we passed, and struck in upon Strathnaver at a place called Ravigill. The day, which was fine, showed the moors and mountain tops of the Ben Griams close beside us, and of Ben Loyal (Loaghal) and Ben Hope blue in the distance. But as towards evening we entered Strathnaver the weather suddenly charmed and a cold wind, with that sort of drizzle called a Scotch mist, blew behind us from the cast, and so with heads and hearts equally light and thoughtless, we put our nags to their full speed, and cleared the Strath at the gallop, till we reached the celebrated Loch Mo-nair, within three miles of Clerkhill. This lake, little better than a horse-pond, was as much celebrated among the northern Highlanders as was Bethesda among the Jews ill the time of our Lord. Deranged and fatuous persons were conveyed from the extremities of the five northern counties, at no matter what risk and expense, to this muddy pool for cure. The method was to come there on the evening previous to a certain day of the year- I think the first day of February. The unfortunate victim of this "freit" was, on the previous evening and on the ensuing appointed day, kept bound, and very sparingly fed until sunset. No sooner did the ruler of the day settle below the blue wave of the Atlantic (visible from the spot) than the patient was immediately unbound, led forth to nearly the middle of the pool, and hurled head foremost under its dusky waters. then he was dragged out, stripped, and dried, and conveyed home by his attendants, in the confident expectation of his recovery. Our reception at Clerkhill was most cordial, and my sister and I remained there about a week, after which we went on a visit to Tongue manse, along with Captain Gordon. My venerable acquaintance, Mr. William Mackenzie of Tongue, is impressed on my recollections. His manse was noted as the headquarters of hospitality, and Mr. Mackenzie was the wale of old men. He had entered the territory of narrative old age, and his narratives were fluent and almost inter minable. He knew all my maternal ancestors, and he described them to me so minutely that I groaned for weariness. Mrs. Mackenzie, besides her other good qualities, was a poetess; her verses, which very much pleased her friends, were hung in black frames on the parlour wall. The good old man of Tongue could never be happy without, not only all his family, but even his nephews and grand-children filling each a place in his establishment. Two were then at the manse. One was the late Dr. Hugh Mackenzie, minister, first of Assynt, next of Clyne, and lastly of Killin, in Perthshire. He was the second son of old Hugh Mackenzie, tacksman of Creich, the minister of Tongue's eldest brother. Young Hugh was a special pet of his uncle. His recommendation to the old man's favour consisted in three things, viz., his natural talents, his evangelical sentiments, and the fact that Hugh was at the time on marriage terms with Nelly, his cousin, Mr. Mackenzie's second daughter. Miss Helen was not a fool's fancy. She had passed her prime, and to look at was hard-featured and sallow, and wore a wig. I shall afterwards notice them. Another relative of the family whom I saw there at this time was Miss Barbara Gordon, only daughter of Robert Gordon, tacksman of Langdale, in the parish of Farr. She was Mr. W. Mackenzie's grand-daughter, by his eldest daughter. Miss Barbara was a very shy, pretty, young woman of about seventeen. She afterwards became the wife of her cousin, David Mackenzie, eldest brother of Dr. Hugh Mackenzie, who was latterly successor to the Rev. James Dingwall, minister of Farr. I returned to Clerkhill, and while I remained there I called once or twice on the parish minister, Mr. Dingwall. Of this thin, spare, old man, I have many recollections. He was the immediate successor of Mr. George Munro, of whom I have already made mention. Mr. Din-wall was a native of the parish of Tarbat, and descended of an ancient family of proprietors in that part of Ross-shire. He was himself of humble parentage, but having received a liberal education at the parish school, he studied at college and the hall, and was licensed to preach, in the meantime filling the office of parish schoolmaster at Tarbat. From this post he was transferred to officiate in the pulpit at Farr. On the day of his settlement there by the Presbytery of Tongue, he told them that, if they asked him to answer the usual question, "Did he use any means; directly or indirectly, to procure the living," he should give no reply; and, strange to say, the Presbytery resolved to waive the question and proceed to induct him. Mr. Dingwall, during nearly the whole course of his life, was the Moderate minister of Farr; that is, like all of that "caste," he was not respected as a minister by his parishioners, but regarded its a mere stipendiary, and quite a secular character; and his pulpit ministrations were considered, not as the faithful discharge of ministerial duties, but as a more serving of the time being. I have often seen him at Kildonan, on his way to the Synod. He seemed to me, then, to be a shuffling, swaggering, tough, grey-headed, old carle. He nearly lost his life oil one occasion on his way home from Golspie with his stipend. He lodged at Kildonan the night before, and started next morning at break of day. It was during the very height of a winter storm, his stipendiary aliment was lodged in his portmanteau, on which he had rested as a pillow during his slumbers, and which he placed behind him on horseback when he set out on his perilous journey. After beating up the whole day against the storm, which drifted in his teeth, and floundering through fens, quagmires, and wreathes of snow, he was overtaken by night whilst wending his way through Beallach-nan creach. There he was seized with an inclination to sleep, and, accordingly, dismounting from his horse, he twisted the bridle round his arm, laid himself down on a wreath of snow and slept. When he awoke he felt benumbed with the cold, but he walked his horse to Ravigill, and on his arrival narrated his hairbreadth escapes, also some extraordinary dreams he had had during his repose on the Beallach. Worthy Charles Gordon, his host, proposed, first of all, that his foot should be bathed, which was accordingly done, but, unfortunately, it, was with warm water instead of cold, the consequence of which was that the majority of Mr. Dingwall's toes were thereby, to the day of his death, put hors de combat. He lived most penuriously, and saved some money. His wife was like himself; they had two sons and a daughter. But it is most refreshing to me, on looking back on the past, to be enabled on highly respectable authority here to record that Mr. Dingwall gave decided evidence at the close of his life of having died the death of the righteous. To a few select Christian friends who visited hire during his last illness, and who remarked that he must now look to Christ alone for help, he replied, with much solemnity and fervour, "I look to Him now, not for help only - that were comparatively nothing - but that He would be pleased, as He only is able, to do all for me." This was the language of faith and experience. But, indeed, the general tenor of his life, when viewed apart from the prejudices excited by the weakness of his intellect and the extreme levity of his manner, would lead us to conclude that, notwithstanding his infirmities, he had the "root of the matter in him." He was ever most assiduous in the discharge of his ministerial duties; he was conscientiously just in all his dealings; and his apparent levity, or, rather, rapidity in the expression of his thoughts, was more the result of the character of his mind than of vitiated principle or habit. Mr. Dingwall will, in all probability, on the great day of reckoning be numbered among those who then shall verify the words of our Lord Many that are first shall be last, and the last shall be first. 1: I left Clerkhill after a few days to return home, and as I proceeded on my journey, mounted on Dalcharn's horse, I felt unwell. Whenever the horse attempted to trot I felt a violent pain and dizziness in my head. I attempted to shake it off, but it wouldn't do, and all my attempts to do so rather increased than diminished it. In passing through the Beallach my illness had increased to such a height that three times successively I was obliged to dismount and stretch myself on the ground. The last time I did so I fell into a feverish slumber, and after some wild fantastic dreams I awoke, far more weakened than refreshed by my repose. I came to Dalcharn in the evening, where I lodged for the night. I was sent to sleep in an outhouse, cold and damp even then, in the middle of summer, which added not a little to my distemper. I left next morning on foot without food, for which I felt an utter loathing, and old Gordon convoyed me from his house to the ford on the river, which I crossed, and bent my steps to Kildonan. On reaching home I went to bed, from which I did not rise for nine weeks thereafter. My complaint was evidently a low fever acting upon my nervous system. My bed was made up at first in my father's bedroom. Whilst I was still there, Harry Rainy of Creich, at present Dr. Rainy, Professor of Forensic Medicine in the University of Glasgow, along with one of his sisters, paid us a visit at Kildonan. The sister who accompanied him is now married to Mr. Robert Brown of Glasgow. This gentleman was one of the great Glasgow merchants engaged in the West India trade. He afterwards retired, and now lives at Fairlie in Ayrshire. Harry Rainy was then a student of medicine, very talented and very argumentative. My case was by my stepmother brought under his notice. In the art of healing the sick, the lovers of it, in every successive age, have fancied that they have attained to the acme of perfection. The advance of the science then reached was, that the sprinkling of cold water in cases of fever was a sovereign antidote; and I was accordingly, by Mr. Harry Rainy's prescription and manual operation, subjected to that newfangled treatment. The consequence was, that the complaint, after taking its own independent course, settled at last in the back of my head. Dr. Ross of Cambusmore, the only medical practitioner in the county, was also called in. He was a better sick-nurse than a medical adviser, and, consequently, had great sympathy for his patients' sufferings and peculiar fancies. I fancied a fresh herring during the height of my illness, and Dr. Ross most cordially allowed me to have it. After nine weeks' confinement I arose, but the effort was too much for me. I almost fainted. I yet remember the sudden sinking of my energies, the tender but skilful treatment of my excellent stepmother, and the alarm of my father, of my sisters, and of John Baigrie, who also was present. I recovered slowly. Previous to my illness I had engaged to become private tutor in the family of Mr. Robert MacKid, Sheriff-Substitute of the county, who lived at Kirktown, parish of Golspie, and no sooner was my health re-established than I went thither. Mr. MacKid rented the farm of Kirktown from the family of Sutherland, and on it he built a new house and a square of offices. His family consisted of three sons, Joseph, Alexander, and Robert, and three daughters, Catherine, Anne, and Sophia. None of these are now living but Sophia, who, along with her father and husband, Mr. Gillanders, now lives at Fortrose. Joseph died in the West Indies, Alexander at sea, and Robert at Fortrose. Catherine and Ana were both married; the elder to a merchant at Redcastle, who afterwards became manager of a distillery at Tarbat; there he died, and she soon followed him to an untimely grave. The younger daughter, Anne, was married to Mr. Thomas Jolly, minister of Bowden, son of the old minister of Dunnet already mentioned. Her husband had been tutor to the present Duke of Roxburgh during his father's lifetime, and was, in consequence, presented to the parish of Bowden. He had a large family. Mr. Mackid himself was a lawyer by profession, and made money in the way of his vocation, first at Fortrose, and afterwards at Tain. While he was at Tain, Sheriff MacCulloch met with his death at Meikleferry, and Mr. MacKid became his successor. Perhaps it would be as well here to introduce the particulars of that mysterious dispensation of Providence which cut off this valuable life. On a market-day at Tain the worthy Sheriff left his own house in Dornoch in the morning, and crossed the Ferry to Tain, intending to return home in the evening. When he came to the Meikleferry, late in in the day, the shore was crowded with people returning home from the market. On his arrival they all made way for him, and he was, quickly seated at the stern of the wherry; but afterwards the multitude pressed into the ferry-boat-the more earnestly, as they would thus have the privilege of crossing in the same boat with the Sheriff. Apprehensive of the issue, Mr. MacCulloch turned away at least two score of them from the boat. There still remained on board, however, too many for safety. It was a dead calm, and the wherry was pushed off from land. But when it had nearly reached the middle of the ferry, and the deepest part of it, the boat gave a sudden jerk, the water rushed in, and, with the exception of two or three who escaped by swimming, the whole of those on board sank to the bottom and perished. About 70 persons were thus drowned. This fearful event took place during the darkness of night in the year 1809, and created a deep sensation all over the country. The Sheriff's body was among the last that was found. The particular spot where it lay under the flood was discovered in a dream. A fellow-Christian and an acquaintance, deeply affected by his death, dreamed of his departed friend. In the dream the Sheriff appeared, spoke of his sudden call to the other world, and told him where his earthly remains lay, adding that, whilst the fish of the sea were permitted to mangle at their pleasure the bodies of his fellow-sufferers, they were restrained from putting a tooth upon his, which would be found entire. The dream was realised in every particular. The Sheriff's wife and daughter long survived him, and they, together with the rest of the surviving relatives of the victims of the catastrophe, were ample sharers of a fund set on foot for their support, and called the Meikleferry Fund. Captain Robert Sutherland, Dr. Bethune's son-in-law, was one of the leading members of this charitable association. I remained for about a year in the capacity of tutor in the family of Mr. MacKid. I shall briefly sum up what I remember of this period. I was very nervous, and was continually adopting one quack remedy after another for the bettering of my health. Tea, ardent spirits, and animal food I entirely renounced. My bed was furnished with the usual accompaniments which administer to repose, but all this was thrown away upon me, and the experience of a single sleepless night convinced me that a featherbed and English blankets were rather the means of suffocation than of comfort. I therefore got rid of them. The coverings I exchanged for a single fold of a, blanket, and for the featherbed I substitutes a chaff mattress. Thus furnished I slept soundly. I adopted also the nostrum of early rising, both in summer and during the gloom of winter; and, as in Edinburgh so also at Kirktown of Golspie, two or three o'clock in the morning found me seated quietly on the top of a hill - in the present instance, Beinn-a-Bhraggie, near Dunrobin, some 100 feet higher than Arthur's Seat. Download 1.26 Mb. Share with your friends:
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