CHAPTER I
SECTION I.—SITUATION, EXTENT, &c.
THE district in the west of Scotland which now forms the county of Renfrew, in ancient times, under the name of Strath-Gryfe, made part of the lower ward of the shire of Clydesdale. It was erected into a barony and distinct sheriffdom by Robert III. in 1404; received its present name from the burgh of Renfrew, adjoining to which the family of Stewart had long had their principal residence; gave title of Baron to the King's eldest son; and formed an important part of the patrimonial inheritance of the Prince and Great Steward of Scotland.[1] This county lies on the south side of the Clyde, excepting about 1030 acres, which are situated on the- north side of that river.[2] It is bounded by that part of Ayrshire called Cunningham on the south; by Dumbartonshire, and Argyleshire on the north and west; and by Lanarkshire on the east. Its greatest length from Drumduff, in the parish of Eaglesham, in a N. W. direction, to Cloch-point, in the parish of Innerkip, is 31 1/2 miles; and its greatest breadth from Maich-bridge, near Kilbirnie loch, to Erskine house, in a N. E. direction, is 13 1/4 miles. The area is nearly 241 square miles, that is, 154,182 English, or 122,646 Scots acres, about one half of which is arable.[3] It comprehends twenty-one parishes, besides a small portion of some others, the churches of which are in the adjoining counties. Of those twenty-one parishes fifteen are country—or in old technical phraseology—landward parishes: of the other six the town of Paisley forms three, the town of Greenock two, and Port-Glasgow one. Two Parishes, Eaglesham and Cathcart,
The small portion of the county of Renfrew situated on the north of the Clyde, consists of 1030 Scots or 1294 English acres, belonging to three proprietors; of which last some parts lie in the county of Lanark, belong to the presbytery of Glasgow; the other nineteen compose the presbytery of Paisley,
The principal towns in the county are, the royal burgh of Renfrew, the towns of Paisley, Greenock and Port-Glasgow,[4] besides several large and populous villages. The county town is Renfrew, where are held the quarter sessions, the head courts, and meetings of freeholders for the election of the members of Parliament: but Paisley, far exceeding it in extent and population, and now the seat of the Sheriff-court, is naturally regarded as the capital. It lies in latitude 55° 51’ north, and longitude from the meridian of London about 4° 21' west.
We have no account of this shire in any remote period, excepting those brief notices of it which occur in the more ancient histories of Scotland. George Crawford, historiographer for Scotland to Queen Anne, wrote a history of it in the early part of the last century: an edition of which, with additions pretty accurate, though expressed in a very homely manner, was published at Paisley in 1782. The account given of this district by Camden[5] 220 years ago, being very concise, it may not be improper to transcribe all he states. He says; "Upon the banks of Clyde lies the barony of Renfrew, so called from its principal town, which may seem to be Ptolomy's Randvara. On the river Cart the ancient Baron of Cathcart hath his habitation. Near adjoining (for this little province is full of nobility) lies Cruikston, anciently the seat of the Lords of Darnly, from whom by right of marriage it came to the Earls of Lennox, whence Henry the father of King James the VI. was called Lord Darnly. Hawkhead, the residence of the Barons of Ros descended originally of English blood, as deriving their lineage from that Robert Roos of Warke, who left England and came under the allegiance of the King of Scots.—Paisley, formerly 4, a famous monastery founded by Alexander the II High Steward of Scotland, inferior to few for its noble church and rich furniture; but now, by the favour of K. James VI. it gives a seat and the title of Baron to Claud Hamilton, a younger son of the Duke of Chatelerault. And Sempill, whose Lord is Baron Sempill, and by ancient right Sheriff of this Barony. But I have read that the title of Baron of Renfrew, by a peculiar right, belongs to the Prince of Scotland."
Before the abolition of heritable jurisdictions in 1747, the Earl of Eglinton held the offices of heritable Sheriff of the county, and heritable Bailie of the regality of Paisley; both which jurisdictions he acquired from Lord Sempill. The Barons Rosse of Hawkhead were, from a very early period, heritable constables of Renfrew, in virtue of which office they had a right to levy certain customs at the principal fairs of that burgh. In 1793 Wm. M'Dowall Esq. of Garthland was appointed His Majesty's Lieutenant of the county; which, office, upon his death in 1810, His Majesty was pleased to confer upon the Earl of Glasgow.
The county sends one member to Parliament; and the royal burgh of Renfrew, along with those of Glasgow, Rutherglen and Dumbarton, sends another. The representatives for the county, in the Scottish Parliament, since the revolution, were, John Caldwell of Caldwell; William Cunningham of Craigends; Sir John Maxwell of Pollock; Sir John Houston of Houston; Alexander Porterfield of Porterfield; and Sir Robert Pollock of Upper Pollock. The members of the British Parliament since the Union, with the days for which the Parliaments were summoned to which they were elected members, are as follow:
Sir Robert Pollock of that ilk, 23 Oct. 1707
Sir John Schaw Bart. of Greenock, 8 July 1708
Sir Robert Pollock Bart. 25 Nov. 1710
Id 12 Nov. 1713
Id. 17 March 1715
Major Tho.' Cochran of Craigmuir, 10 May 1722
Sir John Schaw Bart. 28 Nov. 1727
Alex, Cunningham of Craigends, 13 June 1734
Id. 25 June 1741
Mr Cunningham died: and on, 23 Dec. 1742
Wm. Mure of Caldwell was elected.
Id. 24 July 1747
Id. 29 April 1754
Patrick Crawford of Auchinames, 16 April 1761
William M'Dowall of Castlesemple, 7 April 1768
John Crawford of Auchinames, 24 Oct. 1774
John Shaw Stewart of Greenock, 30 Sept. 1780
William M'Dowall of Garthland, 21 May 1783
Id. 17 April 1784
John Shaw Stewart of Greenock, 19 Oct. 1786
Id. 24 July 1790
Boyd Alexander of Southbar, 13 June 1796
William M‘Dowall of Garthland, 23 July 1802
Id 29 Nov. 1806
Id. 29 May 1807
Mr M'Dowall died: and on 2 May 1810
Archd. Speirs of Elderslie was elected.
The representatives in Parliament for Renfrew, Glasgow, Rutherglen and Dumbarton, were,
Sir John Johnstone Knight, 23 June 1707
Robert Rodger Esq. 8 July 1708
Tho.' Smith Dean of Guild, Glasgow, 25 Nov. 1710
Id. 12 Nov. 1713
Mr Smith died:
Daniel Campbell of Shawfield elected.
Id. 10 May 1722
Id. 28 Nov. 1727
Col. John Campbell of Croombank.' 13 June 1734
Neil Buchanan Esq. 25 June 1741
L. Col. John Campbell of Mamore, 13 Aug. 1747
Id. 31 May 1754
Lord Frederick Campbell, 19 May 1761
Id. 10 May 1768
Id. 29 Nov. 1774
John Crawford Esq. of Auchinames,
Chamberlain of Fife, 31 Oct. 1780
Ilay Campbell Esq. 18 May 1784
appointed. L. Pres. of the court of Ses.
Jo. Crawford of Auchinames elected.
William M'Dowall Esq. of Garthland, 25 Nov. 1790
Id. 27 Sep. 1796
Boyd Alexander Esq. of Southbar, 16 Nov. 1802
Arch. Campbell Esq. of Blythswood, 15 Dec. 1806
Id. 22 June 1807
Alex. Houston Esq. of Clerkington, 1809
SECTION II—DIVISIONS AND SURFACE.
The small extent of Renfrewshire supersedes the necessity of any political sub-divisions: but in considering this county in an agricultural view we are naturally led to throw it into three separate districts: the hilly, or more elevated; the gently rising; and the flat. These three differ greatly in soil, surface, and mode of cultivation.
1. The hilly or more elevated district contains. 80,772 Scots acres,[6] it is by far the most extensive, and, if properly cultivated, perhaps the most important of the three. This tract forms the south and west parts of the county: it extends a considerable way into the neighbouring shires; and in Renfrewshire comprehends the entire parishes of Mearns, Eaglesham, Kilmalcolm, Innerkip, Greenock, Port-Glasgow, the greatest part of Neilston, and Lochwinnoch, with large portions of other parishes, which are chiefly situated in the latter districts. Though the whole of this district be considerably elevated above the level of the sea, yet it has no very great inequality of surface. A great portion of it forms what is called a table land; as having no rugged or lofty mountains incapable of improvement by cultivation or planting, and few steep ascents, except in some places where the higher region is connected with the lower grounds, or where a stream of water has worn for itself a deep channel. The most elevated parts in this district are the hills in the south east, and western extremities. Mistylaw, in the parish of Lochwinnoch, is the highest hill on the west; and Balagich and Dunwar in the parish of Eaglesham, are the highest hills in the south-east side of the county; the first is said to be 1240 feet;[7] the two last are about 1000 feet [8] above the level of the sea. On the south side of the county the hills are far from being so elevated. Stanely braes in the parish of Paisley, are computed to be 680 feet,[9] and Neilston-pad 820 feet [10] above the level of the sea. The medium elevation of this division of the county, may be reckoned from 500 to 600 feet.
2. The gently rising or middle district contains 32,280 Scots acres;[11] and comprehends the parishes of Cathcart, and Eastwood, with parts of the parishes of Paisley, Inchinnan, Erskine, Houston, Kilbarchan and Renfrew. In no part of Britain, perhaps, has nature formed a more beautiful surface of ground, than in this district of Renfrewshire. Little hills gently swelling in endless variety, interspersed with various coloured copses, often watered at the bottom by winding rivulets, in different and changing forms, meet every turning of the eye: and few inland views, perhaps, in richness and variety, surpass those which present themselves from the top of every, one of those gentle eminences which are so beautifully scattered round the town of Paisley. In a small, compass, there is a wonderful diversity of landscape. "The hills do not rise in ridges, but are altogether separate and distinct from each other, and present those alternate risings and falls, which constitute so material a part of picturesque beauty."[12]
3. The flat, or, in the language of the county, the Laighlands, which forms the last and smallest district of the county, consists chiefly of that beautiful level tract, which is situated to the north of the town of Paisley; and comprehends the parish of Renfrew, and parts of Inchinnan, Erskine, Houston, Kilbarchan and Paisley. It lies chiefly near the confluence of the rivers White-Cart, Black-Cart, and Gryfe;, and from it the ancient name of , this tract, Strath-Gryfe, is derived. The length of this plain is about six miles, its breadth about three, and its area 9,594 Scots, or 12,062 English acres.
SECTION III.—CLIMATE.
The air, it is generally believed, is moister, and the rains more frequent, in this and the other western shires, than in the eastern parts of Scotland. The prevailing wind is the south-west. This circumstance, with the vicinity of the Atlantic, and the height of the hills in the more elevated parts of Renfrewshire, sufficiently accounts for the frequency of the rains, and the difference between the eastern and western coasts. But frequent as rains are in this county, the quantity which falls is far less than in some parts of Lancashire, Cumberland and Westmoreland: The annual average of rain which has fallen at Glasgow, near the eastern extremity of this county, for thirty years, from 1761 to 1790 inclusive; is 29.65 inches, The- greatest quantity in any year, during that period, was in the year 1775, which was 43.9 inches; and the least quantity was in the year 1788, which was 19.43 inches.[13] It is probable a greater quantity of rain falls in the western extremity of the county: but it is only of late that any accurate registers have been kept which might determine this. The following is a comparative view of the quantity of rain which fell in 1809 and 1810, on a. line extending almost quite across the island, and which may be considered accurate.
1809. Dalkeith—Bothwell Castle—McFarlane Observatory, Glasgow—Brisbane Observatory, Largs
January, 2.085 1.560 1.435 2.121
February, 8.204 2 86 2.8 4.692
March, 0.694 0,339 0.360 2.981
April, 1.240 0.785 0.386 1.751
May, 2.076 2.935 2 379 2.806
June, 2.525 1.846 2 379 2.956
July, 2.324 1.545 2.245 1.829
August, 6.502 4.470 5.283 6.298
September, 3.476 2.780 2.325 2.025
October, 0.406 0.950 1.442 2.220
November, 1.44.5 1.175 0 925 2.410
December, 2.575 3.190 3.153 6.535
Total, 28.552 24.440 25.132 38 624
1810.
January, 2.280 1.770 1.743 3.740
February, 0.984 1.455 1.283 3.191
March, 2.843 2.467 1.687 4.051
April, 1.584 0 768 0.659 3.170
May, 1.435 0 707 0.510 0.732
June., 1.479 1.962 1.145 1.781
July, 3.134 3 640 3.724 3.100
August, 3.100 2.410 2 874 3.244
September, 0.457 0.620 0.724 1.804
October, 1.570 1 807 1.176 2.399
November, 4.430 3.334 3.374 4 859
December, 2.340 4.070 2534 6.643
Total, 25.636 25.010 '.....111, 1.433 38.714
Although it thus appears that the quantity of rain in the west of Renfrewshire is considerable, it is certainly far short of that which falls annually at Lancaster, Manchester, Kendal [15] and Keswick,[16] which is 40.3, 43.1, 61.2, 70.6 inches respectively. The quantity of rain is not so much to be dreaded as its frequency.
The vicissitudes of weather are not more remarkable in this than in many other counties of Scotland. A long period of dry weather frequently takes place, and this again is often succeeded by an equal period of rain. In Renfrewshire itself a difference of climate exists. In the lower divisions of the county the spring is early; and the operations of seed, time are considerably advanced, while the grounds in the higher district are bound by severe frost. In the former too, the harvest is earlier and far less precarious than in the latter, where the inconvenience of a foggy and moist atmosphere is experienced. But in hoar frosty weather the frost seems to descend from the mountains, and while they enjoy a bright sunshine and a serene atmosphere, the lower parts of the county are sunk, as it were, in an ocean of fog. The climate upon the whole is healthy; and even in the division of the county, last described, though flat, of considerable extent, and much intersected by rivers, agues are unknown.
SECTION IV.—SOIL.
The county exhibits not only a varied surface but also a great diversity of soil. That which most generally pervades the more elevated division of the county, is a free light earth, on a dry bottom of gravel, or whinstone, or what is called rotten rock; which readily absorbs water, and preserves the surface at all times free from a superfluity of moisture. In the middle or gently rising district, the soil is a thin earth, sometimes on a gravel, but generally on what is called a till bottom; the till being a mixture of stones and heavy clay, hard, and retentive of moisture. In this district are also to be found many flat holms of small extent, the soil of which is of a loamy mellow nature, and of very great fertility. There is little land in this division which is not arable.
In the flat division, the soil is generally a deep rich loam, of a dark brown colour, and seems to be a deposition of vegetable mould from the higher and less fertile parts of the county. Much of it is of the nature of what is termed carse clay; and in some portions, such as the burgh lands of Renfrew, the subsoil is sandy. :While these are the prevailing soils in the different divisions of the county, it will easily be conceived, that in districts of such extent, there must be a considerable variety and different degrees of fertility: In the hilly or first division, the grounds are often very barren, producing mere ling or heath; and many parts are covered with deep moss. In the lower district, especially along the banks of the Black-Cart,[17] moss also prevails; less difference probably exists in the middle district; and in this last division no moss occurs.
SECTION V.—MINERALS.
The minerals of which Renfrewshire is possessed deserve particular notice. The discoveries that have been already made below the surface have augmented the wealth of the county, added to the comfort and convenience of its inhabitants, and enabled them to carry on many manufactures, which have not yet found their way into other parts of the kingdom; and it is probable that farther mineral treasures remain unexplored. Neither the highest nor lowest divisions of the county afford a wide field for mineralogical inquiry. The first division abounds with whinstone, or mountain rock, where very little stratified matter is to be found. The coal, lime and freestone, at Ouplay, in the parish of Neilston, are situated in this division of the shire, and probably form the only exception to this general observation. At the same time it may be remarked, that the extent of these strata is narrow, that they are often interrupted and irregular, and in a valley of so moderate an elevation compared with the neighbouring hills, that they may be considered as belonging, to the middle division. Some fissures of rhomboidal calcareous spar, have been discovered in the parish of Kilmalcolm; but in this higher region there is yet no substance found which assumes a regular bed.
In the flat division of the county the strata are situated far below the surface, and deeply covered with moss, earth, clay, sand and gravel; and the discoveries of minerals, in consequence of a few searches, have hitherto presented but unpromising appearances. Several attempts have been made for coal and lime in Renfrew moor, belonging to the burgh of Renfrew, (a part of this division) within the last sixty years, at considerable expense; and though the last attempt has laid open both coal and lime, there is reason to conclude, that no good workable field exists in that part of the county. The difficulties attending the working of the limestone are considerable; and the magistrates of Renfrew, apprehend the success of the undertaking so very doubtful, that they have let this coal and lime, under long lease, at only £1, or £2, per annum. It is the middle, or gently rising, division, that affords the most interesting subject for a mineral survey; and to that part of the county we shall here confine our observations.
Coal—"All the subjects of useful industry, all the arts and manufactures, without exception depend, directly or indirectly, on operations in which fire is necessary."[18] An examination of the coal, strata in this county, where manufactures are carried on extensively, must, therefore, be of much importance.
There are generally about twelve different coal works carried on in the county. They are chiefly situated in the parishes of Eastwood, Cathcart, part of Govan, and Paisley.
In the first two parishes, several seams have been discovered, which are at present wrought. Some of them afford coal of very excellent quality; such as at Nutshill, where the specific gravity of the coal of some of the seams is only 1.252: but as from the thinness of the strata, these works are unfit to supply a great demand, they are neither productive to the proprietors, nor beneficial to the public. In the lands of Cowglen, in the parish of Eastwood, where the greatest number of those thin seams of coal is found, the strata that occur are as follow:
Fathoms, Thickness.
Ft. In.
6 From the surface there is 1st, Splint coal, 1 6
1 below the Splint coal there is 2d Soft or Sclaty coal 2 0
2 below the Sclaty coal there is 3d, Smithy coal, 1 3
3 below the Smithy coal there is 4th, Rough Splint with a pooling below of Smithy coal, 2 3
1 ½ below the Rough Splint there is 5th„ Soft coal, 2 2
13 ½ 9 2
And below these there are several thin seams which have not been wrought, but have been discovered at the crop. The intermediate strata between these different coals, are freestone, blaes and ironstone. Some of the coal-works in the parish of Paisley,[19] are also unproductive on account of the extreme thinness of the strata: The most extensive and valuable coal-works in the county are the three following:
Polmadie Coal—The very valuable field of coal which runs in the course of Clyde from the parishes of Shotts and Dalserf to Glasgow, a stretch of above twenty miles in length, and of various breadth, and which is known to contain six or seven workable seams of coal, extends into the lands of Polmadie, Howbank, Corsehill, and other parts of the eastern extremities of Renfrewshire. The coal on each side of the Clyde with their intermediate strata, which are chiefly freestone, blaes and ironstone, is found to dip towards the river. The upper seam, at the depth of 40 fathoms from the surface, is the only one that is yet wrought on the lands of Polmadie. From an examination, however, of the contiguous pits in Lanarkshire, the following may be assumed as a correct journal of the different seams of coal which occur in the eastern corner of Renfrewshire, and of their distances from each other.
Fathoms. Thickness.
Ft. In.
40 From the surface to the 1st workable coal called 1st, The Upper coal, is 4 6
5 below the Upper coal there is a Tender coal not worked, 2 0
6 ½ below the Tender coal there is. 2d, The Ell coal, 3 9
5 ½ below the Ell coal is 3d, The Main coal, 4 10
10 ½ below the Main coal is 4th, The Humph coal,3 0
67 ½ Carried forward, 18 1
Fathoms. Thickness.
Ft. In.
67 ½ Brought forward, 18 I
9 below the Humph coal is 5th, The Splint Ell coal, 3 10
1 below the Splint Ell coal is 6th, The Splint Main coal, 7 6
13 below the Splint Main coal is 7th, The Sourmilk coal, 2 6
90 ½
5 1/3 Coal
95 5/6 Total depth.
Hawkhead or Hurlet coal.—The Hawkhead or Hurlet coal, is situated in the parish, and lies three miles south-east from the town, of Paisley. It is a stratum 5 feet 3 inches thick, declining eastward, with a dip which is variable, but may, on an average, be accounted one in eight. This seam extends over several hundred acres of land, and has been wrought for at least three hundred years. From a lease dated in 1634, granted by James Lord Ross, it appears, that there were then five miners employed; that the annual sales of coal amounted to £200; and that the rent to the proprietor, was 1400 merks Scots, equal to £77 15 6 2/3 sterling. There are at present from twenty to thirty miners employed. The strata that were intersected in sinking a pit in 1786, on the west side of the rivulet of Levern, were as follow:
Ft. In.
1. Earth and clay, 42 0
2. Sand and gravel, 8 0
3. Schistus, or till; with some thin strataof limestone, and many beds of ironstone, and balls of ironstone, 105 0
4. Limestone, 3 0
5. Schistus of an aluminous quality, 3 1
6. Coal;the specific gravity of which is 1.266, 5 3
Total depth, 166 4
The same seams of coal and limestone have been discovered in the estate of Househill on the east side of Levern, at the depth of 240 feet from the surface; and the strata intersected are, in all respects, similar to those on the west side of that stream, excepting for about 90 feet next the surface, which appears to be new strata of limestone and ironstone, and, in some places, strata of sandstone.
Quarreltoun coal—At the coal of Quarreltoun, which is now working both at Quarreltoun, and in the estate of Cochran formerly the property of William M'Dowall Esq. there are several singular circumstances. The concomitant strata are chiefly whinstone; whereas at the other coal-works in the county, the accompanying minerals are freestone, ironstone, limestone, blaes, &c. but never whinstone, This coal is described in the vii. vol. of the Statistical account of Scotland by the Rev. Mr Boog.
"The coal at Quarreltoun is one of the most extraordinary masses of that mineral in the kingdom. It consists in effect of five contiguous strata. The thickness of the whole, measured at right angles to the surface of the strata, is upwards of 50 feet; but as in some places the seam forms a considerable angle with the horizon, the thickness of the whole in those places, measured vertically, is about 15 fathoms in consequence of the great depth, it is worked in floors or storys. Till of late, the work was carried on horizontally from the shaft, so as successively to intersect all the five strata. At present, the miner pursues the same stratum, rising with it, In the former mode of working, there were five floors or storys; in the present, there are only three; the first, third and fifth stratum being wrought, and afterwards so much of the second and fourth as may be done with safety. It is difficult to convey a clear idea of the manner in which this singular mass of coal lies. In a field of about 1:5 acres it is found to dip in several different directions. At least, conceiving a nearly circular area of these contents, the coal from the north, the east and the south quarters of that circle, dips pretty uniformly towards the centre. This, however, is in some measure interrupted by several hitches, at one of which the mass of coal is suddenly thrown up about 50 feet, at another about 30. These hitches interrupt not only the direction, but the degree of the dip; On one side of the first mentioned hitch, it is about one foot in three; on the other, only one in six. Some years ago this coal caught fire; and, the pillars giving way, the ground sunk, and left the surface in a very rugged state, The excellent judgment and persevering industry of the proprietor (Mr Houston of Johnstone) have surmounted many difficulties that have occurred in working this valuable coal; it now (1792) employs about thirty pickmen, and there are commonly twelve or fourteen horses below ground. The produce some years has been no less than 20,000 tons."
Coal is now the common fuel in every part of the county: the price at present, at the pits, is from 4s. to 6s. per cart of 12 cwt. or from 6s, 8d. to 10s. per ton,
Limestone.—Limestone abounds in different parts of Renfrewshire, particularly in the parishes of Cathcart, Lochwinnoch and Paisley. There are commonly eight different lime quarries wrought in the county. Stanely lime quarry, in Paisley parish, is a considerable mass lying in a narrow compass, and dipping towards a centre like the Quarreltoun coal. It is wrought by mines driven from opposite sides of the circular mass of limestone, and meeting at the centre. The lime-works at Blackhall,[20] Cathcart, Corseford and Locher, were also wrought by mining, though the first two have only a clay roof. "The Hurlet lime lies in a stratum 3 feet thick incumbent on the seam of coal.[21] After the coal is dug out the limestone is blown down with gunpowder, about one half being left to support the strata above." There is generally a joint, or parting, in the middle of this stratum of limestone, which renders the operation of blasting with powder easier than if the whole were one solid seam. There are generally fifteen men employed at Hurlet in blasting the limestone; ten men in breaking it and burning the lime during the summer season; and five or six horses in drawing it from the wall-face to the bottom of the shaft, whence it is raised to the surface by a common gin. The limestone at Muirhead or Newton, in the parish of Paisley, was in like manner wrought, after the coal was exhausted; and raised from the bottom to the surface by common gins; but this work is now abandoned. There are several lime-works at Darnly, in the parish of Eastwood; the lime containing so small a portion of calcareous matter, as hardly to decompose, or fall to powder, after calcination.[22] The lime at Darnly slacks best in the kiln, and is valuable as an excellent cement. The whole quantity of limestone that was burnt at the different lime-works in the county in 1795 was from 8,000 to 10,000 chalders; the chalder containing 32 Winchester bushels of lime, or 16 bushels of lime shells: and the value, at from 10s. to 12s. per chalder, is about £5,000. In consequence of the improved state of the roads, and of a more complete knowledge of agriculture, which seems to be gradually diffusing among the farmers, the consumpt of lime has increased every year, nor does it yet appear to be at its height. The quantity at present burnt and applied as manure is about 12,000 chalders, and the value at 16s. £9,600 sterling.
Ironstone.—It is only within the last seventeen years that any ironstone has been wrought in the county. On the banks of Cart, on the estate of Blackhall, considerable quantities [23] have been dug and conveyed, by land carriage, to Clyde iron-works in Lanarkshire, a distance of about eleven miles. The expense of working has commonly been from 4s. to 5s. per ton; the rate of carriage from 5s. to 7s. per ton, and the proprietor obtains a royalty or lordship of 10d. or 1s. per ton. The bands of ironstone at Blackhall, are numerous, of considerable thickness, and afford iron of very good quality. Besides the numerous ironstone bands, there are also a great number of ironstone balls which are wrought along with the accompanying strata.[24] At Hurlet the bands of ironstone are still more numerous and some of them nine inches thick.[25] To enumerate all the different places of the county where ironstone in the state of beds and balls is found, would be superfluous. It seems to be very universally diffused over all the district of the county we are now considering. It will be enough to observe that in many places where this division of Renfrewshire is intersected by the rivers White-Cart and Gryfe, and the rivulets Levern and Locher, immense quantities may be observed cropping out on the banks of those streams. The detached ironstone bands and balls[26] which are to be found as concomitant strata of almost all the coal works in the county,[27] are also worthy of notice. It is said[28] that similar detached bands and balls collected in Lanarkshire, make a considerable part of the supply of Clyde furnaces in the parish of Old Monkland, and almost the whole of the supply of Cleland furnaces in the parish of Shotts. It is therefore highly probable that a mineral which the county contains in such profusion will in some future period be held in higher estimation, prove an addition to the wealth and importance of this county, and give a new spring to the ingenuity and exertion of its inhabitants.
Pyrites.—In the stratum of coal at Hurlet and Househill there are found considerable quantities of pyrites. These have since the year 1753 been carefully separated from the coal at Hurlet, and sold to a company established there; for manufacturing sulphate of iron or green vitriol. The price of these pyrites or copperas stones, by old contract, was 2½d. per hutch, of two hundred weight. A similar establishment for manufacturing copperas was begun in 1807 at the adjoining lands of Nutshill, which is supplied with pyrites from the coal-work on the lands of Househill adjoining Hurlet. The specific gravity of good pyrites is 3.658.
Aluminous Schistus.—On the banks of Gryfe and Locher, in the parish of Kilbarchan, there are evident indications of an aluminous schistus resembling the rock or mine[29] from which alum is manufactured at Whitby in Yorkshire; but no experiments have yet been made- to determine how far this substance is fit for preparing alum.
The seam of schistus situated between the lime and coal at Hurlet (No. 5 in the above statement of strata) [30] is very variable in thickness, being some-times only six inches, and in several instances 3½ feet. Its specific gravity is 2.404; and, though extremely-hard when fresh dug, it decomposes by the action of the air. The extent of excavation or waste, in these mines, is about 1½ mile in length, and the greatest breadth about ¾ of a mile; the whole of the cavity is in general dry, and the temperature from 60° to 63°. In this situation the schistus gradually decomposes, and acquires a flaky or downy appearance. In some places, where the schistus may have lain for a very long period, the decomposition is complete. When thus completely decomposed, it is a beautiful vitriolic efflorescence resembling plume alum, but seems to be rather a sulphate of iron than of alumine. It appears in many instances to contain nearly equal quantities of each. The separation of the former, with a view to manufacture alum, was always found difficult. Many unsuccessful attempts to prepare alum from this material were made in 1768 and 1785: but from experiments made in 1795 and 1796 it appeared, that by proper application of the principles of chemistry, this separation might be effected. In consequence of the success of these experiments, a work for the manufacture of alum was begun at Hurlet in 1797, by Macintosh, Knox & Co.; and in 1808 similar works, on a larger scale, were established by the same company, at Campsie in Stirlingshire, where the same mineral substances are in great abundance.
Dr James Millar of Edinburgh, in the appendix to his edition of Williams' History of the mineral kingdom, has given some account of the mines at Quarreltoun and Hurlet,[31] and of the productions of the latter. He assumes, that in consequence of gradual decomposition, the schistus is "converted into a native alum:" but this is erroneous. In tracing the circumstances which have produced the changes on the materials found in these mines, he observes: "The pyrites of the coal is decomposed, and the sulphur being oxygenated, is converted into sulphuric acid, part of which combines with the oxide of iron, and thus forms sulphate of iron, or copperas; while another part of the sulphuric acid combines with the alumina of the schistus, and probably also with an alkali, thus yielding a native alum." But no such combination with ammonia or with an alkali can take place, for none of these substances are to be found in the mines at Hurlet, which never afford a single specimen of native alum. Native copperas however is frequently found.[32]
Freestone.—The middle division of the county abounds with freestone quarries, of excellent quality, lying near the surface. The most valuable are on the estates of Househill, Stanely, and Newton, The nearness to Paisley gives additional value to the quarries situated on the south side of that town.
Whinstone.—It has been already observed, that immense masses of whinstone are to be met with almost everywhere in the higher district of this county. In the other two divisions this seldom occurs. Yet detached masses are to be found at different places in the middle division; as at Elderslie, Paisley, Blackhall, Cathcart, Craigton of Erskine, Rashielee, &c. &c. These afford excellent materials for paving streets, for making and repairing roads, and for forming the jettees which have been constructed for improving the navigation of the Clyde.
Copper.—There are some appearances of copper ore in sandstone rock, on the estate of Gourock, in the parish of Innerkip. About the year 1780 some experiments were made to ascertain its quality; but it is presumed those trials were unsuccessful, as the operations at Gourock have been long discontinued.
Fossils.—A great variety of fossil substances are found in the coal mines, and in the stone and lime quarries, of this county, well deserving the examination of mineralogists. In the mines at Hurlet, besides specimens of native copperas, or sulphate of iron, and the plume alum already described, specimens of sulphate of magnesia, crystallized sulphate of lime, and native sulphur are occasionally found. On the highest parts of the county, specimens of prehnite and zeolite are frequently met with. But it is unnecessary to detail the variety of marine exuviæ, fossil shells, figured stones, bitumens, spars, &c. which are to be found in Renfrewshire; the intention of this report being to, collect facts relating to the advantages which may to derived from the mines of the county, rather than to enumerate every object connected with the mineral kingdom.
SECTION VI.—WATER.
This county is intersected, and excellently watered, by a variety of rivers and streams, which pursue their course from different quarters and in different directions. Of these the chief are, the Clyde, the White-Cart, the Black-Cart, and the Gryfe. The Clyde, though it takes not its rise in Renfrewshire, passes along a great part of its northern and western boundaries, spreading itself in a broad and deep channel as it approaches the sea; its surface crowded with vessels, and its banks adorned with green fields, elegant houses, pleasant villas and populous towns.[33]
The salmon fisheries, in this part of the river Clyde, belong to the burgh of Renfrew, and afford but a small income. About twenty years ago they yielded only about £80 per annum; in 1798 the rents rose to £168; and in 1799 to £230; but they have since remained stationary, and seldom bring £200 a-year.
The river is navigable to the city of Glasgow, and the improvement of its navigation has been long considered as an object of great importance. For this purpose the Lord Provost, magistrates and council of that city obtained an act of parliament,[34] by which they were impowered to commence certain operations on the 1st of May 1759. But either the plan proposed to be adopted was defective, or the powers contained in that act were insufficient for the purposes in view, so that it was not thought adviseable to take any steps towards improving the navigation, and no operations whatever were begun under that act of parliament. In 1771, the magistrates, having taken the opinion of Mr John Golburne of Chester and other eminent engineers, and got an accurate survey of the river, applied for, and obtained a new act of parliament,[35] and employed Mr Golburne to begin the proposed operations. At this period, as Mr Pennant observes,[36] and he derived his information from his friend Mr Golburne; "The city of Glasgow was perfectly tantalized with its river: the water was shallow, the channel much too wide for the usual quantity of water that flowed down, and the navigation interrupted by twelve remarkable shoals. The second inconveniency continually increased by the wearing away of the banks, caused by the prevalency of the south-west winds that blow here, and often with much violence, during more than half the year: that what is got in breadth, is lost in depth; and shoals are formed by the loss of water in the more contracted bed." The act impowered the magistrates to make and keep the river Clyde navigable from the lower end of Dumbuck-ford to the bridge of Glasgow, so as there may be at least seven feet water, at neap-tides, in every part of the river. The operations were begun immediately after passing the act, but nothing to any great extent was carried on till the years 1772 and 1775. "Before these improvements (says Mr Pennant) lighters of only thirty tons burden could reach the quay of Glasgow, at present (1772) vessels of seventy come there with perfect ease."
By an act of parliament[37] passed 20th May 1809, the magistrates are impowered not only to continue the works authorized by the two former acts, but also to carry on such new and additional works as they shall think proper, till such time as the river is at least nine feet deep, at neap-tides, in every part between the bridge of Glasgow and the castle of Dumbarton. For carrying on these works they are impowered to borrow money, not exceeding £30,000, and the rates and duties may be made over in security for payment of the money borrowed. The duties are to be applied in carrying these acts into execution, and in making and maintaining the navigation, and the quays, piers, jettees, walls, &c. The river-duty payable on alI kinds of goods is very moderate. On coals it is four-pence per ton; and on bricks, lime, limestone, and pan-tyles, sixpence per ton; and so great has been the success in improving this navigation, and such the extent of trade and increase of revenue, which rose from £1021 to £4759,[38] that after the 8th of July 1817 both these duties are to cease and be totally extinguished. A great number of vessels are now employed at Glasgow in the coasting trade: they are from 50 to 130 tons burden: from twenty to thirty of them are constant traders to and from Dublin, Belfast, Liverpool, and Bristol; and there are instances of vessels making voyages from the quay of Glasgow to Lisbon. The means of improving the navigation have been, chiefly, dragging out the sand and gravel, and building jettees of strong mason work, of whinstone, projecting into the river in an oblique direction, so as to contract the bed of the river: these operations have been attended with most beneficial effects; they have not only improved the navigation, but have acquired for the adjoining proprietors considerable quantities of land from the river. The latest improvements are dykes or walls parallel to the current of the river, and these will still farther benefit the navigation, and reclaim additional quantities of land.
The White-Cart rises in Lanarkshire and enters this county from the south, in the parish of Eaglesham. Thence, for a few miles, it flows northeast: reaching the castle of Cathcart, it turns northwest, passes through the parish of Eastwood, enters the parish of Paisley near the castle of Cruikstoun, and directs its course northward through the town of Paisley till it meets, at the bridge of Inchinnan, the united rivers of Gryfe and Black-Cart, and mingling its streams with theirs, joins the Clyde about 6¼ miles below Glasgow. The navigation of the White-Cart was considerably improved, though at a great expense, in the year 1786, when the bed of the river was deepened below the town of Paisley, and the navigation completed to the Clyde by a short navigable cut, which, leaving the Cart a little above Inchinnan bridge, passed by the east end of that bridge, and so avoided the shallows which are under the arches, and which it was not thought adviseable to attempt to deepen. Mr Crawford in his history of the county says, "In the river White-Cart, a little above the town of Paisley, there are found pearls so fine and big, that they may compare with many oriental, and have been taken notice of by some of the most famous jewellers in Europe. They are found in the ground of the river, among the sand, in a shell bigger than that of a muscle:[39] the proper season of fishing them is in the summer." These valuable pearls are, however, no longer to be found.
The river Black-Cart rises from Lochwinnoch, or Castlesemple-loch, in the south-west extremity of the county. From this it runs for some miles north-east, when it passes through several mosses, from which acquiring a dark tinge, it has obtained the epithet of black; it joins the Gryfe at Walkinshaw, about two miles above the confluence of that river with the White-Cart. Its run is about seven miles.
The Gryfe rises in the western parts of the county among the high lands of the parish of Greenock: it runs eastward through the parishes of Kilmalcolm, Houston, and Kilbarchan; and having received the Black-Cart at Walkinshaw, and the White-Cart at Inchinnan, these united rivers flow from thence three quarters of a mile, and empty themselves into the Clyde. The whole run of Gryfe is about seventeen miles.
Besides these there are a great many rivulets and smaller streams, called, in this part of the country, waters; the principal of which are Levern, Brock, Calder, Locher, Duchal and Alt-Patrick. All these, independent of their importance to agriculture, are, in almost every part of their course, applied, by the busy and ingenious inhabitants of the county, to the various purposes of manufactures. The county also enjoys considerable advantages from the lochs (or lakes) which are situated at, or near, the sources of the streams now mentioned. Several of those lakes, originally of considerable extent, have been of late greatly enlarged, and converted into reservoirs for supplying the machinery, upon the rivulets which issue from them, during the dry part of the season. It has been ascertained, that, since the forming of those reservoirs the river White-Cart has never risen so high, in consequence of heavy rains, as it had formerly done. They collect the water falling on extensive tracts of hill ground, and, as they have never yet been filled, the water is gradually discharged; thus the lower grounds are less subject to be overflowed, which prior to the construction of those reservoirs, they frequently were, and to a very great extent. The most important of those lochs are, Castlesemple-loch containing 193 Scots acres, Queenside-loch, Long-loch, Loch-Libo, Cauplaw-loch, Black-loch, Brother-loch, and Binnan-loch, in Mearns, Eaglesham, Lochwinnoch, and Neilston. Some of them contain pike, perch, and eel, and are visited by swans, wild-duck, teal, and other aquatic birds; others contain trout of a peculiar kind, similar to the char of the lakes of Cumberland and Westmoreland.
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