VI. Evia and the Northern Sporades



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This chapter covers the island of Evia lying parallel to mainland Greece, the mainland coast itself from Ak Sounion to the Trikeri peninsula, (Locris, Boeotia, Attica) and the northern Sporades. The inner route up the narrow gulf between Evia and the mainland is the more often travelled, there being sheltered waters and many safe harbours and anchorages. Along the east coast of Evia there are few safe anchorages sheltered from the prevailing wind. Nonetheless in the days of sail, caiques bound for the north would take the open water route making for Skiros and then slanting NW to Thessaloniki. The return trip was generally down the inner route.

In classical and Venetian times Evia and Skiros were important intermediate ports along the northern Aegean trade route between Athens and what is now northern Turkey. The trip from west to east was a gruelling slog (with a lot of rowing) against the prevailing winds.

The agricultural and mineral wealth of Evia ensured its own early development into a powerful state with a large fleet of its own, but it was later subdued by Athens. When the Venetians occupied it they considered it important enough to rank it as a kingdom and the standard of Negroponte (as Evia was called under the Venetians) was one of the three flown in St Mark's Square in Venice. Today, despite its proximity to Athens, Evia remains for the most part a wild and unspoiled island.

In ancient times an enemy of Athens wishing to invade the city-state would follow a fairly standard route from the north down through Evia and the adjacent mainland to southern Greece. The Pass of Thermopylae and the Plain of Marathon are probably the two best-known classical battle sites. The land force would be landed or supported from the sea and consequently this stretch of sea resounded to sea battles of which the Athenian harassment of Xerxes' fleet in the Trikeri Channel is possibly best known. Not only the Persian invaders under Xerxes, but also the Macedonians, the Romans (under Glabrio and Cato), and the Turks, used this passage to get to southern and western Greece. In 1941 the British force (with the Australians and New Zealanders), retreating from the Germans in Macedonia, came down through here and were evacuated from beaches in Evia and the Saronic Gulf.

Kölpos Petalion and the southern part of Evia are

regularly cruised by Athens-based yachts, but further N there are fewer yachts to be seen except around the northern Sporades where a number of flotillas are based.

Weather patterns in Evia and the Northern Sporades

The prevailing wind in the summer is the meltemi blowing from the NE. As in the Cyclades the meltemi begins fitfully in June, blows strongest in July and August, and dies at the end of October. In July and August it blows at Force 4-6 and may reach Force 7 on occasion. In the spring and autumn the wind is again predominantly from the N (NE-NW) but there are regular winds from the S as well.

There are a number of local variations to the overall weather pattern. In the Trikeri and Orei Channels (Stenon Trikeri and Stenon Oreon) the wind is funnelled into the channel so that it blows from the E-ENE. In the gulf of Volos (Pagasitikös Kölpos), a NW wind, Force 2--5, often blows down the valley at the head of the gulf in the spring and autumn. There may also be southerlies which can also blow in the summer months.

In the winter, gales are more often than not from the NE and can be exceptionally harsh. In early December 1980 a gale from the NE reached Force 10 and snow covered most parts of Evia down to sea level. In the mountains, up to a metre of snow fell and transport, telecommunications and electricity facilities were knocked out for three days. Snow on the decks is not what most people associate with Greece.



As in the Cyclades care must be taken of gusts off high land when the meltemi is blowing. Places noted for these squalls are the Evia coast in Kölpos Petalion, the Evia coast N of Khalkis, and the E coast of Skiros.

In the summer the temperatures are high averaging 25°-26°C. Thessaly has the reputation of being the hottest place in Europe and certainly Volos is very hot in the summer (average temperature 27°C). In the spring and autumn there may be rain showers and thunderstorms. The latter may be accompanied by squalls, but they are normally short-lived affairs, usually over in 2 hours or so. The winters are harsher than those in more southern climes with colder temperatures and substantial snowfalls.

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EVIA AND NORTHERN SPORADES

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Routes

Routes going N via Evia are basically up or down the outside of the island or the inside channel. The prevailing wind in the summer is the meltemi blowing from the NE and outside of the meltemi season most winds are still from the northerly quadrant. Yachts going N will usually take the inside channel which although still windy, offers more flat water and importantly more safe harbours and anchorages. Yachts coming S will often take the outside route and roar down to the Cyclades and Stenon Kafirevs with the wind behind. Some also take the inside channel and still have the wind behind.

Yachts heading N should, if they have time, leave in the spring or early summer before the meltemi begins or is not as strong as in mid to late summer. Often you will have days of calm and even some southerlies in the spring and early summer making going N a relaxed affair. If any depressions threaten there are more than enough safe harbours to take refuge in until the depression passes.

Yachts heading S in the summer or autumn will usually find that they have more than enough wind for a quick passage. There are several harbours along the E coast of Evia that can be used, although care is needed along what is in effect a lee shore most of the time. The seas can build up substantially, and as you get towards Stenon Kafirevs you will find some wicked steep cross-seas. In gales from any direction Stenon Kafirevs is a place to steer clear of— even big ships seek shelter in northerly gales rather than tackling the strait.

Data

PORTS OF ENTRY

Lavrion Volos

PROHIBITED AREAS

  1. Anchoring is prohibited in the
    northern part of
    Örmos
    Marathon and at Örmos Âyios
    Marina.

  2. Landing is prohibited in the
    vicinity of Ormos
    Âyios Marina
    and on the nearby islands of
    Stira, Verdhouyi and Kavaliani.

  3. Landing is prohibited on Nisos
    Yiouri in the Northern
    Sporades.


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