Full text of "The Spanish journal of Elizabeth, lady Holland"
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THE SPANISH JOURNAL
OF
ELIZABETH LADY HOLLAND
THE JOURNAL OF
ELIZABETH LADY HOLLAND
(1791-1811).
Edited by the EARL OF ILCHESTER.
With 6 Portraits. 2 vols. 8vo. 21s. net.
LONGMANS, GREEN & CO., 39 Paternoster Row,
London, New York, Bombay, and Calcutta.
( u I / k li'l h , _/ ml ii t h ' i ■ > / ' I ' 1 1 1 7 ( I
■ i . ,i c ( i a/ i ii I'l'l Ii. ( hill
THE SPANISH JOURNAL
OF
ELIZABETH LADY HOLLAND
EDITED BY
THE EARL OF ILCHESTER
WITH PORTRAIT AND MAP
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON
NEW YORK, BOMBAY, AND CALCUTTA
1910
All rights reserved
PREFACE
The present volume of Lady Holland's journal deals
with the accounts of two journeys in Spain, the first in
1802-05, the second in 1808-09. These were omitted
when the two former volumes were published. The
first part tells the story of the travels of the Hollands
and their party at some length, and gives descriptions
of many of the objects of interest which they visited.
I have omitted or shortened the less important details
as much as possible, and have endeavoured to confine
the narrative to those incidents which seem of special
interest or which bear on the character and customs
of the Spaniards. Any mention also of institutions or
buildings which suffered in the wars or have disappeared
since that time, has been retained. The anecdotes and
gossip of the Court may be of interest to the descen-
dants of those concerned, and I have attempted very
shortly to identify the various members of the families to
whom reference is made.
The second portion of the Journal deals almost
exclusively with the incidents of the early part of the
Peninsular War. Lord Holland's name was well known
in Spain, and his sympathy with the cause was apparent
to many outside his own circle of friends. Thus he
was in a position to obtain much information which would
not have been vouchsafed to the ordinary traveller. It
VI
PREFACE
was Lady Holland's daily habit to jot down the reports
which were received from the front and the information
which she collected from Spanish sources. Her narrative
is, therefore, often disjointed, and I have endeavoured,
by means of brief notes, to compare her version with
the various histories of the war now at our disposal.
Especially to Mr. Oman's invaluable work am I indebted
for much of the information which has enabled me to
link together the incidents which she records.
During the stay of the Hollands in Seville they were
in close communication with many members of the
Central Junta. Naturally, their views on the situation
carried much weight, and Lady Holland's remarks are
frequently tinged with a thoroughly Spanish flavour.
This is especially noticeable in her comments on Moore
and his campaign. Frere was at her elbow, despatches
were continually arriving from La Romana — the two
men who had considered themselves slighted by the
British general ; and it was as yet too early for the
inhabitants of the South to realise the debt of gratitude
which in reality they owed to Moore for his strategic
retreat.
It is curious to note in contemporary records of
the war the complete spirit of self-satisfaction in
which the Spanish leaders were accustomed to pencil
their despatches, whatever was the nature of their
contents. Defeat was often described on paper as
victory, and the truth of a report was sometimes only
to be judged in the light of subsequent events. It
can be no matter of surprise that on the spot it
was difficult to differentiate between fact and fancy.
Even in dealing with letters from British commanders
a remarkable divergence of opinion is manifest. This
is well illustrated by those from Lord Paget and Sir
Robert Wilson, which are included in the Appendix.
PREFACE
vn
Though operating only a few hundred miles apart, their
ideas of the Spanish character and disposition will be
found to be entirely different. The one mistrusted every
action, report, or emissary of the Spaniards ; the other
praised their perseverance and their ardour in the cause
of liberty. The Journal is thus valuable as a sidelight
upon the history of the war, and as evidence of the
contradictory rumours and petty jealousies which were
so common at the time. I have taken the opportunity
of inserting a number of unpublished letters in the
Appendix, which may be of some interest to students of
these early campaigns.
It should be clearly stated that Lord Holland was
travelling entirely for his own pleasure. He had no
official position of any kind in 1808-09, though it
appears from the Buckingham Memoirs that some hope
of the offer of an Ambassadorship to Spain was held out
to him in 1811, as a bait to gain his support for the
Government. Indeed, in a letter enclosing passports,
dated October 1808 {Holland House MSS.), Canning
definitely requested him to be careful to make it clear
to the Spaniards that his communications with them
were in no way authorised by the British Government.
He even warned him that he held himself at liberty,
if necessary, to take steps to prevent such misappre-
hensions. Lord Holland was not at one with his
party on the subject of Spain. He was throughout an
ardent supporter of the war and was always convinced
that, with outside assistance, the patriotic spirit of
the Spaniards would in time prevail against their
oppressors.
Some reference was made in the Introduction to the
previous volumes to an episode in Lady Holland's
early life, relating to the concealment of her Webster
daughter in Italy. Anxious to retain the care of the
viii PREFACE
child, she sent a false report to Sir Godfrey Webster of
its death ; and to prevent suspicion, she even arranged
a sham funeral. I have been recently fortunate enough
to find a paper in Lady Holland's own handwriting
relating the whole circumstances. The details differ
somewhat from the previously recognised version of the
story, and I therefore take this opportunity of printing
the paper as it stands : —
' I left Florence on the nth of April with my three
children, accompanied by Marie Madelaine Bonfigli, her
daughter — a child of four years old — Sally Brown nursery
maid, Jacques Arnoud cook, Andre Genovale valet-de-
chambre, Giovachino Mardei footman. Having in view
the concealment of my daughter Harriet, I had sent
the remainder of my servants by the shortest road
from Florence to Padua, at which place I intended
joining them by the route of Modena and Bologna.
Those servants were Morrity a nurse, Ann Williams
my under-maid, and Leopold Marconi, confectioner. On
ye of April, I pretended that Harriet appeared
unwell and expressed my apprehensions that she was
sickening with the measles ; on which pretext I took
her from her brothers into my own carriage for the
remainder of the journey. On the I arrived in
the evening at Paullo. Paullo is a solitary post house,
about 3 or 4 posts from Modena. I there called Sally
Brown to show her some red spots upon the child's
arms, &c, having previously made the spots with water
colours myself. I easily convinced her that there was
danger from infection, and detained the child in my own
room all night. In the morning I pretended the symp-
toms had increased, and that it would be safer to remove
my boys. I therefore sent them attended by Sally
Brown and Jacques Arnoud to Modena, there to wait
further directions from me. In the course of the day
PREFACE ix
I gave out that the child grew worse, and sent Giovachino
to Florence to fetch Dr. Targioni, the physician who
usually attended me, with directions that he should
meet me at Bologna, as I intended going thither if the
child mended, as the accommodations were better than
at Paullo : but my real reason was that Targiori might
not detect the fraud by seeing the child, who was in
perfect health. I was thus left only with Marie Bonfigli,
her child, Andre, and Harriet. To avoid suspicion
from the innkeepers I allowed them to think the child
was better, as I apprehended the fear of her death
might draw more observation. I had brought a guitar
in a case from Florence ; the case was of an oblong form,
and might pass for a rude cofhn. In it I placed some
stones for weight and dressed a pillow with cloathes and
a wax mask. I did the latter, as it was probable the
box might be opened at the difft. custom houses. I
then desired Andre to convey the box to Leghorn, and
receive the Consul's orders for the proper mode of having
it interred, and I conclude that the coffin was conveyed
and buried without inspection.
* I dressed Harriet in boy's clothes, and to avoid
being noticed by the people of the inn, I set off at night.
I arrived at a small post house 2 posts distant from
Modena, and there left Harriet, Marie Bonfigli, and
Octavia. I went on to Modena, where my arriving alone
and apparently dejected confirmed all the alarming
apprehensions Sally had entertained about Harriet's
illness. I immediately set off from Modena on the
17th of April, and found Dr. Targioni at Bologna. I
detained him with me for a few days, and took him with
me to Padua. I had procured from Mr. Wyndham a
blank passport, pretending it was for a person coming to
me out of Switzerland, whose name I had forgotten. The
blank I filled in with the name of Saludini and two
x PREFACE
children, under which name Marie Bonfigli, who had
never lost sight of Harriet since her separation from her
brothers at Paullo, travelled as an officer's wife to Verona,
Munich, Ratisbon, through the lower part of Germany,
until they arrived at Hamburg, where I saw the child
on the 2nd of June, 1796. As my child was reported
to have suffered by the measles, it afforded strong reasons
and satisfactorily accounted for Marie Bonfigli's staying
behind to attend her own child, who had caught them.
I had furnished Marie Bonfigli with money, and
through Mr. Bruni (the banker) had procured for Madame
Saludini letters-of-credit upon several bankers on the
road.'
From another recently discovered paper I am also
now able to give further and more correct details of the
early pedigree of the Vassall family. It appears from
the account I have before me, entitled ' 1588 to 1831 '
that one Samuel Vassall died, leaving a son, John, who
married Anna Lewis. Four sons were born of this
marriage, John, William, Henry, Leonard. William, the
second son, married Miss Mills, and left Bathsheba (who
died unmarried) and Florentius, Lady Holland's grand-
father.
My best thanks are due to Lord Iveagh for his kindness
in allowing me to reproduce, as the frontispiece to this
volume, his full-length portrait, by Romney, of Lady
Holland, in the early days of her married life with Sir
Godfrey Webster. She here appears in fancy dress
as a ' Virgin of the Sun.'
As in the previous volumes, the original spelling and
punctuation of the Journal has not been retained. In
the case of proper names especially, where confusion
might easily arise, alteration has been made, and the
more usually recognised Spanish version, taken from
PREFACE
XI
Arteche and Toreno, &c, has been substituted. A map
of Spain and Portugal has been added, showing the
principal places mentioned in the text, and pointing
out the approximate routes taken by the Hollands by
coloured lines.
ILCHESTER.
August 1910.
PHOTOGRAVURE PLATE
Elizabeth, Lady Holland, as a Virgin of the
Sun Frontispiece
From the picture by George Romney in possession of L ord Iveagh.
Map of Spain and Portugal, Illustrating Lady
Holland's Journeys in 1802-5 and 1808-9 at end
LADY HOLLANDS
SPANISH JOURNAL
l802 - 1805
It was during the early months of 1802 that the Hollands
decided upon a prolonged trip abroad. The continual
illnesses of their eldest boy Charles had become a serious
cause of alarm, and the doctors advised a winter in a foreign
climate (vol. ii. 149). Leaving England in July they went
first to Paris. The party, besides themselves, consisted of
their two boys ; Frederick Howard, Lord Carlisle's sixteen-
year-old son ; his tutor and an intimate friend of the Hollands ,
the Rev. Matthew Marsh ; and Mr. Allen, a doctor recom-
mended to them by Lord Lauderdale, afterwards librarian
and a permanent resident at Holland House.
Charles James Fox and his wife were also in the French
capital at this time, accompanied by his secretary Trotter,
General Fitzpatrick, Lord Robert Spencer, and others.
Both parties were much feted during their stay, and it was not
until September 20 that the Hollands and their retinue left
Paris en route for Spain. After a short tour among the castles
on the Loire they travelled south to Bordeaux. From thence
they took the road to Toulouse, and onward by Narbonne
and Perpignan to cross the north-eastern frontier of Spain
on the high road to Barcelona. They entered Spain on
November 7, 1802.
The destinies of that country were at this time again in
the hands of Manuel Godoy, Duke of Alcudia, the favourite
of Maria Luisa and her brainless husband Charles IV. The
2 LADY HOLLAND'S JOURNAL [N ov.
Prince of the Peace, for by that name Godoy was best known,
had become chief minister of the state in 1792. In com-
pliance with the wishes of the King, war was declared against
France at the time of his cousin Louis XVFs death. The
neighbouring provinces of Rousillon and Catalonia were
the chief sufferers in a struggle which resulted in disaster
to the Spaniards. Peace was signed in July 1795, and a
month later Spain found herself in alliance with the regicide
government of France and at war with England. The
British fleets were too strong for the Spaniards, while times
without number the latter found their various interests
sacrificed to those of their more northern ally. The indigna-
tion of the nation against the responsible minister at last
boiled over, and his fall came about in March 1798, although
he appears never to have ^st the confidence of the King.
Saavedra and Urquijo successively took up the burden of
office, only passively to submit to further indignities at the
hands of France , and to deliver themselves securely fettered
into the power of the First Consul.
It is unnecessary here to trace the rise of Napoleon in a
few short years to the supreme power in France. His hatred
of England led him to pursue a policy intended to alienate
that country from the other powers of Europe. By February
1801 his plan was completely successful, for Portugal alone
remained in alliance with Great Britain. To punish that
recalcitrant nation the welfare, of Spain was again disregarded ;
but at last the eyes of her ministers were opened, and they
saw the gulf into which they had fallen. Urquijo received
speedy chastisement for his disobedience to Napoleon, and
was dismissed from office a few weeks after the arrival of
Lucien Bonaparte in Madrid as special envoy. Godoy, whose
actions Napoleon thought he could mould as he wished, was
restored to power, and consented to undertake a joint invasion
of Portugal. Even to Godoy, who assumed the command
of the Spanish troops, the campaign was child's play, for
the Portuguese army was practically non-existent. But for
once the self-satisfied spirit of the favourite stood his country
in good stead. He began to look on himself as a heaven-
sent genius in the field as well as in the council chamber,
and, tired of the exactions of the French, he was less inclined
to obey their ceaseless demands. Napoleon was amazed at
l80 2] DUGOMMIER'S DEATH 3
this new show of independence, and did not forget it when
the interests of Spain were at stake during the Congress of
Amiens. The northern confederation against England had
been broken up by the death of the Czar Paul, and such
was the exhaustion of the Continent from continual war that
even France was willing to conclude a peace. This was
secured by the Treaty of Amiens in 1802, which gave a short
interval of respite before the struggle which was soon to
commence again with renewed vigour.
Leaving France on November 7, 1803, they crossed
the boundaries of Spain near the village of Perthus.
Fine pillars supporting the arms of Spain mark the
entrance into Spain ; since the war they have not been
elevated but remain overthrown, a pretty just emblem
of the kingdom they represent.
Dined at Junqueras. Saw the ground where Dugom-
mier, 1 the French general, was killed. Also where the
Spanish Commander-in-chief, the Count de la Union, 2
was shot ; the piety of his countrymen has raised a white
marble cross to his memory. The philosophy of the French
has induced them to convey the bodies of their two generals
killed in the Spanish war, Dugommier and [Dagobert], to
the public place at Perpignan, where dead dogs, cats, and
all the filth of the streets is the only decoration on their
sods. Just above Figueras is the fort esteemed a chef
d'eeuvre in modern fortification ; the French got it at
the beginning of the campaign by the foulest treachery. 3
The governor who surrendered ran away, and is now
1 Jacques Coquille Dugommier (1738-1794), who was in command
of the French troops before Toulon when the city finally fell into their
hands. He commanded the army at the battle of Sierra Negra, where
he was killed.
2 Don Luis Carvajal y Vargas, Conde de la Union (1752-1794),
killed at the same battle as Dugommier.
3 The Castillo de San Fernando. A court-martial which was
appointed to inquire into the circumstances of this surrender named
four persons as guilty of the vilest cowardice and treachery, and con-
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