An adventure story
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| Saturday, December 8th -- Nothing startling today, except at one station we saw a dead soldier lying outside of our window. The corridors of the train are packed even a little worse than they were yesterday. We will probably arrive at Moscow Sunday afternoon.
My friend Embrey understands sufficient Russian to get along nicely. He has been in Russia for two years, located at Odessa. It seems the young lady with us is going to Moscow, studying Artistic Dancing, and will soon graduate. She is well educated and has read many books by English, French and American authors. She also speaks several languages. Our Polish Captain is a very young man -- certainly not more than 27 and modest. He is the possessor of one of the most cherished Russian orders, but instead of wearing it, he has had it placed on his sword in a very inconspicuous place. He has the mark of a wound right over his right eye, which can hardly be seen. The bullet entered there and came out in his neck where there is a bad looking scar. He says he was treated by an American doctor. We can get no air at all in our compartment. We have to keep both the doors and windows (the latter remain locked) closed all the time, and, as the Russian soldiers ride on top of the cars, we know, from experience, it is not safe to open the ventilators in the roof. Sunday, December 9th -- Arrived in Moscow about 1:00 P.M. and took drowsky to Consulate. General Consul Somers advised us that the Roumanians and Russians on the Roumanian front had agreed to an armistice with the Germans and Austrians and that the Red Cross party had left Jassy for Odessa. Without in the least doubting the General Consul, I say that his informant is all wrong. I can’t believe it. We are trying to get tickets to Petrograd, leaving tonight. Had tea about 5:00 P.M. with a Russian family in the Consulate Building -- two young men and two young ladies -- all speak English, one without any foreign accent. They invited me for dinner at 6:30. One of the young men said that in the recent fighting at Moscow, German officers participated on the side of the Bolsheviks and upon some of the dead was found German money. The Metropole Hotel was destroyed. It is quite in ruins and the National Hotel is badly damaged. Moscow now seems very quiet. Embrey secured accommodations so we are off tonight at 9:00 P.M. for Petrograd. Embrey understanding the language is the official pilot on Russian territory, and is kept as busy as a bee, as we are not wasting time, but traveling all the time. We left our dinner friends after dark for the station. They told us there had been many hold-ups and to be careful. So we loaded our drowsky down and Embrey and I got in. I kept my revolver in my overcoat pocket, ready for instant action, but fortunately we were not disturbed. Monday, December 10th -- Arrived Petrograd about noon. Everything ran smoothly getting off at Moscow. We had a compartment for two. Soldiers were again crowded in the aisles and one officer (Russian) insisted for about ten minutes upon coming into our compartment, but finally gave it up as a bad job. Immediately upon our arrival at Petrograd, we went to the Embassy. I had the pleasure of meeting our Ambassador, Mr. Francis, a delightful gentleman about 65 or 70 years of age, but very active and apparently not over 50 years of age. Met also Colonel Kolpashnikoff who is in charge of Transports for American Red Cross Mission to Roumania. He immediately offered me an automobile so we took our trunk and five bags to the home of one of Embrey’s friends (Mr. Todabush). Had lunch here and then returned to the Embassy. Found out that the Roumanians are still on the job and the American Red Cross unit still at Jassy. We secured a drowsky and then started the rounds to get our passports in such shape as to go via the Atlantic instead of the Pacific, and also with the idea of getting away as soon as possible. We first visited the Swedish Legation and secured permission to go via Sweden. Thence to the Allied Bureau, but we were too late. Then to the British Embassy, thence the British War Commission, and at the last named place received permission to go to England. We had a nice dinner in the evening with Embrey’s friend and six other American boys. After dinner they all went to the opera and Embrey and I went to the station to buy tickets, which we were able to secure for the following morning. This turned the trick, and in eight hours we had accomplished what we had been told could not be done in less than a week, but it kept both of us on the move all the time, and then we are going to try to get out of Russia without the approval of the Bolsheviki, and feel confident we can do this on account of our Courier Passports. Arrangements had then to be made to get our baggage to the station in the early morning, so we took a drowsky to the Hotel d’Europe, the headquarters of the American Red Cross Mission to Russia, looking for Colonel Kolpashnikoff, but he was not there; we did, however, take a good hot bath and then two of the boys took us to Todabush’s house in a limousine. We had engaged two drowskys to be at the house at 7:00 A.M. tomorrow, but later Colonel Kolpashnikoff called me up and promised to send us an automobile in the morning. It was then 12:30 and in order to get my diplomatic pouch from the embassy, where I had left it for safe keeping, I asked the Colonel to send me an automobile then, and Todabush and I went to the Embassy and secured the pouch. To bed about 2:00 A.M. with alarm set for 6:30. Tuesday, December 11th -- The automobile showed up this morning on time and we got our baggage into our compartment for two without mishap. No soldiers in the aisles now, because we are en route to the border -- through Finland. We both took a nap, had something to eat and then at the Finland border, at about 11:30 A.M., had to get off to have our passports examined. Off again in about an hour. We now have a diner attached and everything on the train is in good order -- not a single Russian soldier with his inseparable dirty bundle. I feel like we have at last reached civilization again. Will go back for a moment to Petrograd. The city was covered with a blanket of snow and ice. All of the drowskys were sleighs and everyone, for a wonder, seemed very orderly and busy. There were hundreds of magnificent buildings, but we were so busy making our arrangements to leave that we did not visit any of them. Many of them were peppered with bullet holes (machine gun fire), showing they had been under siege. There was a great deal of talk about disorders and civil warfare. Wednesday, December 12th -- Train is four hours late. This cuts our time at Torneo short, where we have much to do: secure tickets, get passed by the Russian authorities, take care of our baggage, etc. Diner will be attached about noon today and we will have something hot to eat. To avoid any possible trouble in Sweden (pro-German) I took off my uniform and borrowed a suit of cits from Jack. We have had no sunlight today -- only twilight which turns to darkness at three o’clock in the afternoon. The country is flat and everything is covered with ice and snow. There are many frozen streams and evergreens are abundant. Thursday, December 13th -- Up this morning about nine o’clock. Dressed by electric light. Breakfast in diner. Saw the sun rise at exactly ten o’clock. The evergreens, covered with ice crystals and snow, are marvelous in their beauty, with the sun, low on the horizon, in the background. We had a good breakfast of fruit, veal cutlet, potatoes and coffee. Bread cards are in use and no bread can be obtained without these cards. Only one cup of coffee is allowed and about three quarters of a teaspoon of sugar. Everybody seems to be very pleasant and we are enjoying the trip. This seems to be a dairy and fish country. There are a number of Germans on the train and one Austrian, who is being exchanged by the Russians. The sun set about 12 to 12:30. At 2:30 it was necessary to have lights in the train, and darkness is upon us now -- 3:30 P.M. At Torneo we were met by the American Consul and by him piloted through the maze of troubles in passing the border (into Sweden). We had something to eat in the railroad station while waiting for him to perform some of these duties for us. You serve yourself from a general table and then sit down at a smaller table to eat. The American Consul was very thorough, smooth and quiet and extremely efficient and we got through what we thought would be trouble without difficulty or excitement. We went over to identify our baggage and got it through without the formality of having it opened, due to the fact that we are both traveling as Diplomatic Couriers. Our drowsky sleigh was waiting for us, so we were off across the frozen Torneo River for the other side -- being the first to cross the border. The Bridge is not being used at this time and over the ice we went at a pretty rapid gait, into what looked like no-man’s land, as it was now thoroughly dark. We boarded the train at Haparanda, which is the Swedish town across the Torneo River and started our journey to Stockholm. We are due to arrive at Stockholm tomorrow morning and hope to leave for Christiania tomorrow night. Friday, December 14th -- Sun rose today about 8:30 A.M. Seems more natural. Due at Stockholm at noon. It is much warmer this morning and there is not so much ice and snow. Later -- Arrived at Stockholm about noon. Took taxi to American Consulate, then went to the Bank, thence to Cook’s Ticket Agency and then to the Railroad Station. From there to the Continental Hotel for something to eat. We had a typical Swedish dinner. Several small dishes as an appetizer, then reindeer meat, potato salad, beer, and for dessert preserves (the first time I have ever eaten preserves as a dessert). After dinner, we proceeded to the Consulate again and then to a cabaret; thence to the station and left at 8:30 for Christiania, Norway. The sun set today about 3:30 P.M. Stockholm is a splendid looking city, although we did not have time to see much of it. While we were able to get as much to eat here as we wished, we had to pay a high price and everyone is complaining of shortage of food and other commodities. For some very poor apples we paid eleven cents and twelve cents each. Sugar is short, also butter. There is no white bread. I was told that prices on practically everything had advanced about three hundred percent. One Swede said “We have sent too much food stuff to Germany.” We saw, of course, among other fine buildings, the King’s Palace. Tonight we will have to sit up because we could not secure sleeping car accommodations so quickly. Saturday, December 15th -- Everything is snow and ice, as we are again bound in a somewhat northerly direction. There are many beautiful scenes and boys and girls skating and skiing and sleighing. We are told that Norway has plenty of foodstuffs but may soon run short. We had white bread for breakfast this morning. No bread cards necessary. Slept well last night in spite of the fact that we had to sit up. Was in a compartment with four other men. The seats were well upholstered and comfortable. Due at Christiania at 1:30 and hope to leave for Bergen at 9:00 P.M. Later -- Arrived at Christiania about 2:00 P.M. Had a very good lunch at the station and then went to a nearby hotel, washed up and went out to see the town. This is real civilization -- the first I’ve seen in many a long day. Crowded streets, well dressed people, well-stocked stores, splendid buildings and Christmas shopping going on. After buying a shirt, several collars and handkerchiefs, we dropped in [on] one of the eating places. We could not decipher the menu and thought we were ordering steak, and, lo and behold, bacon and eggs were produced by the young bar maid. It was very good, however. In the evening we went to see a vaudeville show. It was a drinking place with tables and chairs instead of the usual theatre seats. Much to my surprise and delight, we heard and saw several American actors and actresses and one “dyed in the wool” ‘nigger’.iii The American numbers were very good, as were also two children in different acts. We returned to the hotel about 11:15 P.M., packed up and set the alarm clock for 6:10 in the morning. Sunday, December 16th -- Left Christiania 8:34 A.M., one hour late, for Bergen, where we are due about 9:30 P.M. It is now 2:30 P.M. and we are passing a small stream, which is not frozen over, owing to its swiftness. The water is not deep, giving the stream a deep purple and rich green color, with streaks of ice here and there. We have been passing through small mountains for the past four hours and the scenery is beyond my description. The land of the fairies and the birthplace of Santa Claus is not at all disappointing. It is living up to its reputation. The sun set at 3:30 P.M. and it was dark at 4:30 P.M. At 3:30 P.M. here it is about 10:00 A.M, the same day at home. The Food Minister of Norway is in our compartment, having been dismissed by his Government. There is a good cartoon in the paper showing him as a Norway King with a Shield, and upon the latter is written “I have done what can be done.” Arrived at Bergen at 10:30 P.M. Went direct to Hotel Norge and telephoned the British Consul in order that we might leave on the first Courier ship for England. We have a dandy room but not with bath, as there were none obtainable. Room costs us eighteen kronar daily, or about $6.30, without meals. To bed about midnight. Monday, December 17th -- Went to the British Consul this morning and secured places on the next boat, which will leave probably in a day or so. Then we called on the American Consul, Mr. Waterman, who took us to his Club and opened a bottle of Scotch, which can not be bought here. It was exceptionally good. We remained there for about an hour and then went out shopping. I bought some of the Norwegian jewelry for souvenirs for the folks at home. Thence to the Hotel Norge for dinner, after which I repacked everything for the trip to England and home, while Jack wrote a few letters. Bergen is a very fascinating city of about ninety thousand people. Most of the buildings are small. Snow covers everything. There is a very high hill, almost a mountain, within four blocks of he hotel, with a counter balance car line going up and which is lighted up at dark. This, with the sprinkling of lights in the small houses scattered over the hillside, makes it very picturesque. Bergen is built in a valley, surrounded by hills and part of the city is built on the slopes of these hills. The railroad enters the city through a gorge or valley between the hills. Tuesday, December 18th -- Reported to the British Consul this morning. Nothing doing. Then to the Railroad Station for breakfast, thence to the American Consulate; Mr. Waterman and a Mr. Carpenter took us to the Club for dinner and then I went to an American dentist, whose services I have been needing for some time. I find that everywhere in Europe, it is openly granted that America furnishes the best trained dentists in the world. Later we went to the small, but cozy apartment of Waterman for a cold supper with wine. Today it has rained nearly all day long and under foot it was so slushy that it was like wading through a small stream. Our American friends advise us this is the kind of weather they are accustomed to in Bergen. Waterman says that since August they have had only eleven clear days. This is not true, however, throughout Norway. Wednesday, December 19th -- To the British Consulate first. Our passports with baggage checks were given to us this morning and we may get away tomorrow, or Friday. Returned to the hotel to keep out of the slush. Not raining today but it is warm and everything is terribly slushy. We have invited Waterman and Carpenter to dinner about 2:30 at the hotel. Much to my surprise I find that Preserve Omelettes (egg and preserves) are eaten here only as a dessert -- I startled our waitress the first morning by ordering such a dish for breakfast. I am enjoying myself and actually putting on weight. If I am not careful, I will be a fat man upon my arrival home. We received word tonight confidentially that the boat would arrive in the morning and leave in the afternoon. I find that I was mistaken about bread cards in Norway. No cards are necessary at restaurants and hotels, but each individual has to have a card and the hotels and restaurants are supplied on a percentage (60%) of consumption the previous year. Thursday, December 20th -- Left Bergen via Steamship Vulture about 3:00 P.M. Jack went to bed immediately to avoid being seasick, but not before reserving a table for both of us in his name. Poor Jack did not eat with us during the trip, necessitating my impersonating him in order to hold the table. We had an American First Sergeant of Marines with us, who is Diplomatic Courier, from London to Jassy and return. He was also uncomfortable, but stuck it out. I fortunately escaped, although the North Sea usually brings on seasickness -- the water being very choppy. A few days ago, on this same route, six ships were sunk by the Germans. Friday, December 21st -- Arrived at Aberdeen, Scotland, about 4:00 P.M. and stopped at the Palace Hotel. Met a chap named Coates, American representative of some commercial house. He, Jack and I went to a show. To bed about midnight with call for 5:15 A.M. so as to catch the early morning train to London. Aberdeen has been raided several times by Zeppelins. We were escorted into port by two British destroyers. Weighed tonight on “Honest to God, good, true scales” and tipped them at 153 pounds, without my overcoat. I weighed about 135 pounds when I left Jassy, Roumania -- normal weight being 145 to 148. Saturday, December 22nd -- Up this morning at 5:15. Breakfast of one egg, buttered bread, tea without sugar. Left for London at 6:10 A.M., passing through Scotland. The portion through which we passed was quite hilly. Flock after flock of sheep were grazing where snow did not cover the fields and hills. Trees seem to be scarce. We passed many large industrial plants of various kinds and in many of them could hear the noise of the riveting machines going at a lively clip. We got off at one station for a cup of coffee and at another secured a small basket of food for each of us -- bread, butter, ham with mustard. All diners have been taken off of English trains due to the war. Passed the boundary between Scotland and England about 1:30 P.M. The scenery in England is beautiful; still very hilly. Arrived at London at 10:00 P.M. Proceeded to the Strand Palace Hotel. Monday, December 24th -- I made myself rather scarce yesterday, as I had on Jack’s suit, which did not fit me, and a khaki shirt. I bought a suit of clothes today, also shirts, collars and a hat. In rambling around, we walked down the streets we have often read about -- the Strand, Piccadilly, Fleet, Downing, etc. Saw Parliament House and the Westminster Abbey. Tuesday, December 25th -- It’s nice to be in London, but there is only one place in the world fit for a man to be on Christmas Day and that place is “Home”. Up about 10:00 A.M. Went to a show “Here and There” this afternoon. Had a splendid Christmas Dinner at the hotel in the Grill Room. Supper at a French Restaurant. Read a book this evening. Wednesday, December 26th -- Walked around a bit today. Crossed the famous London Bridge, Tower Bridge, visited the historical London Tower and went through this most interesting place thoroughly, also a portion of the slums of London. Saw famous old St. Paul’s Cathedral, but did not enter. We did go inside of the Westminster Abbey Sunday. Will not enter into description of these places, which are more or less familiar to everyone. I walked through St. James Garden, saw Buckingham Palace, the muchly written about Charing Cross Station, Hyde Park, Daly’s and other famous theatres, etc., etc. I also weighed today and tipped the scales at an even eleven stones. A stone is fourteen pounds, so my weight is 154 pounds. Going up! I called at the American Military Headquarters to see if I could get any information about Jim and Herbert (my brothers) being in France or England, but could get no satisfaction, except that only Aviation men were in England. iv The Englishmen with whom I have talked are without exception highly pleased that America is in the war and unhesitatingly stated that America would win the war for the Allies -- they are expecting big things of America and expecting it with every confidence that the job will be done thoroughly. I had understood that England was prone to give us no credit for the big things to be accomplished -- that we were in it simply for the money end, but I found in London a very different feeling altogether. They seem now to realize the bigness of America and they seem very proud and happy that America is in the fight and that Englishmen and Americans will fight side by side for a common cause. London is truly a wonderful city, with great buildings, which were apparently built regardless of expense as a monument to architecture and for posterity to dream over. A very large percentage of the people are in uniform, but many in citizens’ clothes. There are also many young ladies in military uniforms, serving their Country in some capacity or other. The city is comparatively dark at night, no lights being shown that can be seen from the air. The street lights have shades over them and are hung very low, and such stores as are open have very dim lights. The streets are crowded both day and night and people are bustling about as in New York. The saloons, much to my surprise, are open on Sundays as well as week days. The Strand is the main thoroughfare, said to be the longest street in the world. The very large automobile buses (double deckers, similar to Fifth Avenue buses) are continually on the go. Taxis are very numerous and cheap. Friday, December 28th -- Nothing startling going on. I visited the court rooms, including the Highest Court in England, where Sir Roger Casement was recently tried and convicted by the Lord Chief Justice. This building has nearly three hundred offices and court rooms. Went to see “Beauty Spot” at the Gaiety Theatre tonight. Prices terribly high and the actors and actresses, with few exceptions, indifferent in their acting --- lacked pep (this word ‘pep’ seems to be thoroughly American, not only in manufacture but in execution as well). There were several very beautiful girls on the stage, but they seem to have no vivacity and did not seem as much at home on the stage as our American actors and actresses. I have been to see about half a dozen good shows so far. December 29th to January 4th -- Have simply been killing time sight-seeing and at the Strand Palace Hotel. Will leave for Liverpool today at 9:15 A.M. This is a very fast train and equipment good. Instead of entering at the end of the car, one enters (a private entrance) from the side immediately into his compartment. Arrived Liverpool about 1:30 P.M. We saw the converted (to American) German steamship “Vaterland” at Liverpool, now in our service, after her first trip across the Atlantic. We are to sail by the American Line Steamer St. Louis. Went aboard at 3:00 P.M. Jack and I have room 57 together -- it is fair. The St. Louis does not compare in any way with the Empress of Russia. We moved out into the harbor and stopped. Saturday, January 5th -- Upon arising this morning we find we are still in Liverpool harbor. During the day we made another start. Download 399.67 Kb. Share with your friends:
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