Letters from Australia to family and friends at home


Chapter 1. Farewell to England



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Chapter 1. Farewell to England.

These affecting words were reprinted in the Brighton Gazette on Thursday July 29, 1852, at a time when the town was full of talk about the large number of Brightonians then about to emigrate to Australia. During the whole of the nineteenth century millions of men and women were prepared to leave their homes in Europe to seek better lives in other parts of the world. As far back as the seventeenth century, ships had crossed the Atlantic taking men, and often their families, from Britain to the Canadian and American colonies. They went as settlers to the relatively empty lands where they could establish themselves as independent farmers or businessmen, still maintaining the practices and habits of their old life but also enjoying a certain freedom to experiment in new ways of doing things. Some crossed the ocean more than once, but very few returned to settle in the homes they had left in the mother country.


Even after the Declaration of Independence in 1776, America, with its reputation for freedom and equality of opportunity, continued until modern times to be the most popular destination for European migrants. However, one result of Independence was that America would no longer be available for the reception of criminals who were sentenced by English courts to transportation. Happily, from the point of view of the penal authorities (if not the convicts) new possibilities opened up after the arrival on January 26, 1788 of the “First Fleet” in Australia, with its eleven ships bringing the first contingent of 717 transportees. Over the following 80 years there were to be some 160,000 of these involuntary emigrants to England’s Australian colonies.

A list of Sentences of Transportation compiled by the Friends of the East Sussex Record Office includes the names of nearly 250 men, and nearly 40 women from Brighton sent to Australia before transportation to New South Wales and Van Dieman’s land came to an end. (Convicts continued to go to Western Australia until 1868.) The most usual sentence was for seven years, but for some it was ten or twelve years and for a few for life. The Brighton transportees included a boy of eight in 1847 and another of eleven in 1852. Both of these were sentenced to seven years, like the majority of adult male and female convicts, though 19 of the men and three of the women received life sentences. Transportation for life meant just that. For many years (though not in fact after 1835) it was a capital offence to attempt to return to England. An important element in the plot of Great Expectations, published in 1861, was the return of Magwitch, and the danger he faced of discovery ― not to mention the danger to Pip and his friends who harboured him. Aiding and abetting was a crime, however philanthropic the intention.

Dickens was interested in emigration and it was a topic introduced into several of his (and other contemporary writers’) novels. Magwitch of course had made good during his years of banishment, and become a rich man. He had “done wonderful well” as “sheep-farmer, stock-breeder and other trades besides …. spec’lated and got rich.” The Artful Dodger who befriended Oliver Twist also made good as a drover, but the ultimate Successful Emigrant must surely have been the impecunious Mr Micawber who, with a little help from his friends, took his family to Australia to join Mr Peggoty and Emily, already prospering there. Relieved at last from his debts, he ended up ― perhaps rather improbably ― as a “much esteemed colonial magistrate.”

We do not know how the Brighton or other Sussex transportees had fared in Australia, but by 1850, when our emigrants from the Harpley arrived, a large number of convicts would have served their time and earned their freedom. Many would have settled, more or less respectably, in and around Melbourne, and there may well have been some interesting encounters between them and the new arrivals. Thomas Barnes, transported in 1819 for burglary, may or may not have had any Brighton connections, but in 1838 he had written from New South Wales to his mother, “Widow” (Margaret) Loftey, then living at Boreham Street, Wartling, East Sussex:-
1 August 1838

My dear Mother, ― I have long weighted with a painful hart expecting To heir from you. I at last received a letter from my unkell Tos Baker. I was happy to heir you was alive and I hope that this Letter will Find you and all my dear brothers and Sisters all well as it Leaves all of us at present. Thank God for it. My Unkell Stated in his letter that you thought I was Engarey with you for not wrighten be fore no no do not Think So. God forbide I should be Engarey with my own flesh and blood I did think I was Cast of ― My unkell has revived me once more My hart is fild with Joy ― It is a great comfort to hir from any of you


The growing population in the Australian colonies was however far from being completely made up of ex-convicts. Even from the early days of transportation there were increasing numbers of “free emigrants” leaving Britain to settle in Australia. The governments of the eighteen thirties and forties still clung to their laissez-faire attitude to emigration, neither encouraging nor discouraging prospective emigrants, but the setting up in 1826 of H.M.Colonial and Land Emigration Commission with an office in London had at least provided a channel for enquiries and information.

Since the 1820s Brighton newspapers had carried occasional advertisements for shepherds, horsemen, and stock breeders to take up jobs in New South Wales (which then included Victoria) and Western Australia. There is interesting evidence of one settler couple from these early years whose son was in Brighton in 1852. On April 19 of that year a public meeting was held in the Town Hall to discuss arrangements for chartering a ship to take the second “Brighton band” of prospective gold-seekers to Melbourne. One of the speakers was (?Henry) Franklyn who said, “When he was there in 1844, labour was in such demand that the workmen were better off than their masters, and the shepherds than the sheep-owners,” and that “if the work was not to their minds they could be sure of getting it elsewhere.” Franklyn also said that he had been born in Australia and that he intended shortly to return there. He in fact sailed on the Hebrides a few weeks later with several other Brightonians.

The majority of all emigrants to the colonies ― about four fifths of them ― made their own arrangements for travel and paid their own fares, from savings or probably loans from their families and friends. The cost of fares to Australia, which had to cover at least three months at sea, was several times that of crossing the Atlantic. Employers who advertised for workers perhaps paid or helped with fares, and at times of particular shortages of labour in the colony, the government offered assisted passages to certain categories of emigrants - shepherds or drovers or house servants. The scheme started in 1838, was suspended in 1841 and then resumed in 1847.

These were years of economic hardship at home, above all in rural areas where agricultural labourers were thrown out of work. Some migrated internally to the towns which offered greater opportunities, but those left behind in the countryside were forced to seek help under the Poor Law. Ratepayers were among the most vociferous in claiming that emigration to the colonies was the ideal solution to the problem of “superfluous population.” Even so, poor families seeking (or being actively encouraged) to emigrate could not have gone without financial and practical help. Many charitable and philanthropic societies were consequently set up to help prospective emigrants. The Brighton Emigration Society started its work in the 1820s and was still active at the end of the century. In 1849 Mrs Caroline Chisholm (known as “the emigrant’s friend”) addressed a letter to the Right Honourable Lord Ashley M.P. in favour of the “Colonisation Loan Society, By the Grant of Loans for two Years or more without Interest; or, A System of Emigration to the Colonies of New South Wales, Port Phillip, and South Australia.” Mrs Chisholm stressed the need for a Society “that will tend to discourage idleness and diminish pauperism,” which would help the poor man “to obtain a passage to that Colony, not as a pauper, not as a criminal, but in the worthy position of a borrower.” This was manifestly mid-Victorian Self Help in vigorous operation.

Economic hardship at home was reason enough for many to take the enormous decision to leave, almost certainly for ever, the land of their birth, but this was not always the most important factor. There were undoubtedly a few “black sheep” trying to put their past behind them. (Even the Brighton physician, Dr Christopher Rawson Penfold, who with his wife Mary, settled in Adelaide in 1844, very probably left England because of financial trouble. Mary’s special interest was wine-making, and the development of her business was the foundation for the firm which today is one of Australia’s major wine producers.) Some emigrants wanted to escape from business failure (this was the case for at least one Brighton man) or an unhappy marriage or other personal tragedy; some were advised to go for the sake of their health. Many undoubtedly went in a spirit of adventure, and generally coupled with this was the belief that a new land offered new opportunities and the chance somehow to make a better life.

Chapter 2. Leaving Brighton: Making Plans.
There was one further important reason for people to emigrate if their political or religious situation was in some way marginal to main society. Not just from Britain, where there was by this time a slowly growing, if reluctant, tolerance of religious differences, but from mainland Europe too, thousands emigrated because of restrictions or persecution in their homeland. Their chosen destination was generally America ― “the land of the free”― but Australia increasingly offered the freedom they craved.

This was essentially the reason for the departure from Brighton in 1849 of “the Juniper and Wood party,” who were all members of, or associated with, the Ebenezer Chapel on Richmond Hill. As Particular (or Strict) Baptists they enjoyed freedom of worship and were not persecuted as were many dissenting Protestants on the Continent, but they deeply resented the imposition of compulsory church rates. This legal requirement was enforced to pay for the upkeep and repair of the parish church and “the providing of things necessary for Divine Service therein.” There had long been a strong radical and dissenting tradition in Brighton and church rates (not abolished until 1868) were a continual source of vexation to Nonconformists and Jews. Defaulters could be, and were, prosecuted for non-payment and “suffered distraint” on their goods. Nine Brighton men were summoned for non-payment early in September 1849, among them W. Samuel Tankard, Charles Robert Thatcher and the attorney Richard Mighell. They had engaged a London solicitor, Mr Boykett, to defend them. The case was adjourned until later in the month and then dismissed (probably on a technicality) but by this time Mighell had already joined the Juniper and Wood party on board the Harpley and was on his way to Australia. Tankard and Thatcher were to follow three years later with the Brightonians bound for the gold diggings.

It was the Ebenezer congregation which organized and enabled the Juniper and Wood party to emigrate. John Chandler’s Forty Years in the Wilderness begins with his childhood in Brighton, his father’s various jobs and the different houses they lived in according to how well (or badly) off the family was at the time. Their attachment to Ebenezer, the “joy and enthusiasm” of the service and the fellowship of their friends in the congregation helped to make up for the hard times suffered by the not-quite-poor in a generally thriving town but where prices were high and there was much seasonal unemployment. In 1848 many people talked of emigrating and some went off to America. Then, John Chandler tells us, “Some of the members of the Ebenezer Church met together, and after much talk and many prayers, they resolved to emigrate. They were therefore formed into a church by Mr Sedgwick (who had baptised John’s father), with Mr John Turner as minister; Mr

Juniper and Mr Wood, deacons; members, male, Tyler, Chandler, Foreman and Vincent; female, Juniper, Wood, Turner and Foreman.” Juniper and Wood were both ironmongers in the town and both had families, each of four children. There were two childless couples (the Vincents and the Dadswells), the two Newnham brothers (cousins of the Chandlers) a young man (he was 19) called Thomas Harvey, and the attorney Richard Mighell (the only professional man in the party was styled “gentleman” in the ship’s list). James Tyler was a bookseller who had once employed John Chandler’s father, Stephen, and Stephen Vincent had been in the Brighton police. Stephen Charlwood, though not a member of the Ebenezer congregation, came from a Baptist family near Brighton and joined them on the Harpley.

John Chandler tells us that the Ebenezer party “proposed taking up a large tract of country and equally dividing it into farms, and to keep themselves a separate community.” This was not to be confined to Baptists holding their own Calvinist beliefs, but would be open to “those who approved of our doctrines.” Turner, who was to act as secretary, applied (presumably through HM Colonial Land and Emigration Commission) for a grant of land from the Sydney government. They were offered an area of land for settlement near Lake Colac, not far from Melbourne.

The serious business of preparation for departure then began. There appears to be no reference to any application for financial help to any of the organisations, and state aid of any kind would in any case conflict with their nonconformist principles of independence and would have been strenuously resisted. It is possible that the congregation itself helped families in particularly difficult circumstances ― as the Chandlers had been and probably were then. Several of the men had to sell or leave their business and the Chandlers, like others in the party, sold off their furniture and “bought many things, such as tools and many kinds of seeds, guns, ammunition etc.” Fares were paid and passages booked for the whole party on board the emigrant ship Harpley.The ship left London on September 6, 1849 bound for Adelaide and Port Phillip where she arrived on January 6, 1850 with Juniper and Wood and their friends.

There was a touching optimism among the Ebenezer emigrants, supported by the strength of their faith, that men who had never worked on the land would be able to tame the wilderness that awaited them. In fact just two of the party were well suited to the task ― the brothers Frederick and William Newnham. They had “come from the country, and rather astonished us townies with their rough hats and smock frocks.” But the Juniper and Wood party said their farewells to family and friends and prepared to leave England for ever, strengthened by the thoughts and prayers of the Ebenezer faithful.

How much they really knew about conditions in the bush outside Melbourne we do not know. Some may have received, or at any rate read, letters home from earlier emigrants. One Brighton man, Mr Matthew Cooke, who worked at the post office received a letter in August 1850 from his brother John who had emigrated several years before, not to Melbourne but to Western Australia. Conditions there were clearly difficult and there was a certain resentment among settlers that the eastern colonies were doing much better than they were. Another letter published in Brighton at about the same time – from Henry Smith to his parents – suggests that life in New South Wales was no easier. Three months after the arrival in Melbourne of the Juniper and Wood party in January 1850, a young man with Brighton connections wrote to his parents from Sydney where he had arrived nearly two years before. He was clearly in touch with earlier emigrants from Brighton, none of them doing very well. Thomas Lambert and his family would be cheered however to learn in the not-too-far-distant future that among the passengers listed as aboard the Statesman bringing the second large party of Brightonians to Australia in 1852 were John Lambert, engineer, with his wife, and W. Lambert, carpenter, who were quite possibly relatives.


Brighton Gazette.

Letters received by Mr Matthew Cooke, of the post – office, from his brother [John I. Cooke] who some years ago emigrated from Brighton to Australia.



Northam, Western Australia

November 10th, 1849

I had almost forgotten I had promised to give you a statement of the colony, in my desire to learn something of old friends. I must begin by answering your first question, - what sort of country is it? The coast on first sight has a most desolate appearance in the eyes of all who arrive direct from England, and many feel disappointed after landing; but I doubt if Paradise itself will please all. It may be called one large plain running all along the coast, and averaging perhaps 20 miles in width from the sea to the foot of the mountains, interlaced with abundance of beautiful rivers, with good soil on both banks generally. Many of the rivers are not navigable, not even for boats from the sea, there being almost always a sandy bay across the entrance. The country I have so briefly described may be called poor generally, but poor land in this climate may be turned to profitable use, although very different to your boasted English soil. In England poor lands are poor indeed; here poor lands grow in luxurious perfection vines, olives, figs, lemons and almost all European fruits. The part of the country I reside in I will describe in my next.

Your next question – what are the general prospects of the colony? With sorrow I must state that they are not just now very bright. The colony is not advancing as it ought; the want of labour, the high price of land, its internal and external enemies combined, have all but ruined it; but I firmly believe better days are at hand. Men begin to open their eyes, and many prejudices are wearing away, for it is plain to all rational minded men that the colony must possess abundant internal resources, or it never could have surmounted and struggled through its numerous difficulties; and after all I believe the colony to be out of debt.

The emigrants’ chance of doing well or ill I will defer to my next, also my own affairs; and as the sailors say, I must hold on now and wind up by forwarding our kindest love to yourself, sister Elizabeth, and all your children.

I remain, your affectionate brother

John.

Northam, Western Australia

1st January, 1850

I shall digress a little to give you the news of the week. About ten days since, arrived a Spanish man-of-war at the Port of Freemantle, the Ferolana, of 32 guns. She brought one bishop, about 40 priests, shepherds and others connected with the mission for the conversion of the aboriginal natives. Of course, they are all Roman Catholics; but as they are said to be well furnished with cash, you may feel certain they are right welcome. I feel that their endeavours to civilise the native race are useless, so long as one of the old stock of men and women is living.

Since I wrote last a settlement has been made in the newly discovered district to the northward, about 200 miles from Perth, which I think promises to do more to advance the colony than all that has hitherto been done for it, either here, in England or elsewhere. There is sufficient good pasture land to feed all the sheep and stock we at present possess. Many thousands of acres scarcely require clearing. A plough may be used in places for a mile without any thing to impede it, which will furnish us with the means of growing corn as cheap as they can in Adelaide, South Australia. A very superior lead mine, containing a proportion of silver has been discovered. According to assays made in South Australia, the silver is not in sufficient quantities to pay for sending the ore to be smelted; but as the ore sent to be assayed consisted only of surface specimens, it is considered very probable that the lower they go down, the silver may be in greater quantity. At all events there is abundance of timber and coals in the neighbourhood of the mine to smelt all the lead required in the colony, and there are good markets in China and India for all that we could raise for years to come. Some few tons of the ore will be on board the vessel that conveys this letter to England (the Mary) intended for smelting in Swansea. The ship will also convey to England specimens of copper ore, also discovered on the Geraldine Mining Company’s land, and not far from the lead mine.

[The writer here indulges in some invectives against Government officials who, he says, were sent out for the purpose of investigating the capabilities of the soil, misrepresented facts, and thus prevented a fine country from being rapidly populated, and its resources from being developed.]

The ship Mary will convey a full cargo of wool and timber to England; but I understand that she cannot take in half the produce ready for shipment, so that you see we labour under every disadvantage. We cannot even get ships. I firmly believe that the reason the colony has been so neglected is that so many of her enemies are interested in South Australia; and although we are 1400 or 1500 miles nearer England, we are passed by, whether deserved or not.

I will now endeavour to give you a statement of the farmer’s position. I mean the majority. The want of population is our bane in every way. We have no market for mutton or beef; and hitherto, owing to the great expense of clearing land we have not been able to grow wheat as cheap by 1s. a bushel as the South Australians. Consequently we are inundated with their flour etc; but I believe I may venture to say very little more will be imported. We hope yet to shut them out of our market. Up to this time, with the high price of wages, we have not been able to grow and deliver at the mill, wheat under 4s or 5s per bushel; but as the Pit colony of South Australia has been well supplied by England with cheap labour, they can grow wheat at about 1s a bushel cheaper.

At this time I have 500 or 600 good wethers for the butcher, and I have offered them at 1d. per lb. when dressed for sale, but no buyers. The butchers say “What is the good of our buying? If you were to offer them at one farthing each we could not sell or eat one pound more than we do now.” Consequently, I must boil them down for the tallow. But is it not a disgrace to you Englishmen when you know you have thousands of poor Irish and Scotch labourers actually dying of starvation and we are compelled to waste our flocks for the want of their help? The retail market price of mutton is 1¼d per lb., beef, 2d. The price of wool will not pay the expense of shepherds at their present rate of wages, therefore we have no alternative but boiling them. I began sheep farming when they were £5 per head. I offered any number, but not a buyer, those who were inclined to become sheep farmers remarked, “Where is our market for wethers, and where are we to look for shepherds? Sheep farming will not pay to import from England shepherds at our own cost, unaided by Government, therefore we had better keep our money in our pockets.” So you see the farmers are living in rather bad times, but hope they will mend. I must just observe, if the colony ever held out reasonable inducements for men of small capital to come to it, they never were so good as at present. Sheep can be purchased at 4s; cows and calves (good) at £3; horses from £10 to £60; and plenty of private lands at about one-fourth the Government price, viz., 5s. per acre. I see I must defer to my next, many (to us settlers) very interesting particulars respecting our adopted homes, by again wishing you a happy new year and many of them.

I remain &c,

Your affectionate brother,

John I. Cooke.
Brighton Gazette, 25th September, 1851

Sydney, April 9th, 1851

Dear Father and Mother

This comes with my kind love to you both, as also to my brothers and sisters and I hope you will excuse me for not writing before, as I have been so put about. I arrived in Sydney on the 9th of June, after a fine, but long passage, since when I have worked at my trade but two months out of a year and ten months that I have been here. As many others are compelled to do, I was forced to go up the country, 850 miles from Sydney, as a shepherd, at the low wages of £15 per year. If you know of any mechanic who wishes to rusticate at that wage, he will get plenty of that employment here; but if he is inclined to get his living at his trade, he must not come here, but had better stop at home on half a loaf. Tell Jim, it would be no use his coming out here, without he could bring £200 and his tools with him. Then he might barely make as good a living as he makes at home.

I think of working my passage home shortly; but if you do not see me within twelve months from the present date, you may expect to hear from me, either from California or some part of the United States of America, as it is no use my stopping here. I have had some rankles in my lifetime, but this bangs all. It took me just six weeks to travel 850 miles, part of which was a dense forest, 160 miles through, your only companions being kangaroos, emus, cockatoos, parrots etc, with now and then a black fellow and his family to be seen, stark naked, and about every 50 or 70 miles, a lonely shepherd gunya, or bark hut, in which you can lay on your bed, and count every star there is in the heavens. I am very well in health, considering the heat of this part of the world, together with the mosquitos, sand flies, fleas etc, which breed here in millions and constantly annoy you, night and day.

I don’t know that I have any more to say at present, than if you write to me, you must write by return of post, and you pay the postage, or I shall not get it, they will not let you pay for a letter here, either going or coming, through which I believe many letters never arrive. This concludes with my kindest love to you all; and I remain

Your affectionate son

Henry Smith
PS Tell Jim to show this letter to Mrs Lambert, and let her know that I am very intimate with Mr Howe; and Mr and Mrs Howe are quite well and all their family, but, like myself, have been sadly knocked about, although, like everybody else, in hopes of doing better. They have not been out of Sydney, but as I have told you before, he has not been half his time in work. They are sadly disappointed at not receiving any letters from home, as he has wrote letters and can get no answer. They often hear from Thomas Lambert and his family, who are all quite well; but, like ourselves, badly employed. Mr Howe will write again very shortly.

See letter to Mr Cuttress on page 26.




Chapter 3. The Voyage of the Harpley 1849.
John Turner, on behalf of the emigrants from the Ebenezer Chapel, had booked passages on the Harpley, and preparations for leaving began in the summer of 1849 for some 60 Brightonians and their Baptist friends. There were at least 14 men (most of them fathers of families), nine wives and about 30 children of all ages. The Harpley a barque of 547 tons, was berthed at St Katherine’s dock in London, and was scheduled to sail on September 6. She had been built in Tasmania and launched in 1847. Her maiden voyage was to England, taking soldiers and their families to Plymouth. On the return trip she had carried Nottingham lacemakers, refugees from the manufactories near Calais, who, because of the political situation in France, wished to settle in South Australia. Now, on her second trip to and from England, she was to sail from London, calling at Gravesend and Plymouth, and thence to Adelaide and Melbourne. On September 20, the day before she left Plymouth, the Plymouth Advertiser published a full and somewhat glowing report on the Harpley and this was printed in the Melbourne Argus on January 9, 1850, three days after the ship’s arrival at Port Phillip. The English newspaper must have been brought out on the voyage and presented to the Melbourne journal by the captain, Thomas Buckland, or by Mr James Raven, “a merchant of Launceston,” who was the owner of the vessel and travelling on board with his wife. Such an account would be a useful form of advertisement to attract future voyagers.

Plymouth Advertiser, 20 September 1849

Under her three topsails and jib, with a stiff breeze from the North East, and a strong ebb tide, the smart ship Harpley appeared off Plymouth, on Monday morning, the 17th instant, and notwithstanding the opposition of both elements, she, cutter like, gracefully entered the Sound, and with conscious pride took up her anchorage at the appointed station. Comparatively a few years since no one would have imagined that the far distant colonists of Van Dieman’s Land would have sent to the mother country, a fine specimen of naval architecture, so well qualified to mingle in one of her noblest ports, with the merchant shipping of the parent state. The Harpley was launched at Launceston on the 2nd of February, 1847, and with the exception of her chain cables, was there supplied with all her materials, stores, rigging, pumps, etc. She is now, through the instrumentality of Messrs. Ford and Co. destined to convey a cargo of British merchandise, and a living freight back to Port Phillip. She is full ship-rigged, and registers 570 tons, is fitted in the ‘tween decks right fore and aft, with well ventilated cabins for four and sixes, for which accommodation each person pays £18. Her ample poop aft possesses an elegant saloon, into which

the superior cabins open. Near the rudder there is a very convenient entrance to the saloon from the poop deck, by which this part of the ship is most conveniently separated from the main deck. The Harpley has all the usual fitments for emigration, including one of Thompson’s life boats, the lockers of which are fitted with cork. Mr Thomas Buckland, a first-class master of considerable colonial experience, commands her, and he has an able crew of 10 officers and 24 seamen. Nearly 200 souls are committed to their charge. Among the passengers is a Baptist congregation of about 60 persons, who accompanied by their ordained minister, Mr Turner, have left Brighton in a body, intending to settle in one locality. An experienced surgeon, Mr Smith, takes medical charge, and a medical assistant, Mr Hays, goes out in this vessel. Few emigrants have left the Sound under more favourable auspices than those on board the Harpley. Her agents in Plymouth are Messrs Luscombe, Driscoll, and Co. and it is understood that at Melbourne she will load for England, thus assisting to maintain that happy connection between Great Britain and her colonies which it is to be hoped will continue for centuries to come. The Harpley left for her destination this (Wednesday) afternoon, with a spanking wind from the north-east.

Quoted by Rolicker Chandler in The Migrant Ship Harpley 1847-1862.


Some passengers, including the Junipers and the Chandlers, boarded the ship a week before she sailed. Memories of that week remained with John Chandler until he wrote Forty Years in the Wilderness, published many years later. He had an uncle in London who took young John, then aged 12, to see the sights: the Tower, St. Paul’s, the National Gallery, Trafalgar Square and Westminster Abbey. There was a visit to Vauxhall and another to a regatta at Gravesend, and one day John and his friend William Juniper got lost finding their way to the British Museum and back. John was a high-spirited lad, and on another day he fell in the river and he was rescued by a Spaniard from one of the ships berthed nearby.

The Harpley left at last and was towed down to Gravesend, only to put back because of contrary winds. When she did set off, the weather worsened, but an even greater calamity then struck. Two men on board died of cholera. One of the great dangers for any ship at sea was the outbreak of infectious or contagious disease, and many deaths were caused by cases of typhoid, typhus or diphtheria as well as cholera. Government regulations in 1848 specified that emigrants must be certified free of infectious diseases before embarkation. There was in fact a cholera epidemic in England at the time the emigrants left (in 1849 60,000 died) and later in September 1849 all chapels and meeting houses as well as the churches took part in a Day of Humiliation and Prayer “to avert the cholera.”(At Ebenezer the Rev. Joseph Sedgwick preached a sermon on a text from the second Book of Samuel: “And David said unto God, I am in a great strait…”) The bodies of the dead men were put ashore at Deal with their families and luggage, and the Harpley again went on its way. In the English Channel they encountered very rough seas and took three days to get round Beachy Head and several more to reach Plymouth. Here some new passengers joined the ship and, John Chandler says, one or two of those already on board “lost their passage rather than go any further.” After three days in Plymouth the Harpley left on September 23 and the pilot returned to land with the last letters passengers could send back from the ship. The Brighton Gazette reported on one letter received which described the weather conditions, the sea-sickness and “the multitude of rats with which the ship was infested, and which it was impossible to keep under.”

In spite of a series of government regulations which produced improvements over time, it was difficult to maintain hygienic conditions at sea. Wooden ships often became water-logged and worms invaded the rotten wood. There was a set dietary to be provided for passengers and this was increased in 1849 from a weekly 7lbs of bread, flour, biscuits or rice (or the equivalent in potatoes ― all supplied uncooked) to include also oatmeal, tea, sugar and molasses (given out twice a week). Passengers still had to buy (and cook) their own food, and the smell of their stores in the cabins must have encouraged the rats.

The 1849 dietary ought to have been operating when the Harpley sailed, but John Chandler remembered that “Our ship was very badly provisioned. First, potatoes were all done and then other things ran short. The biscuits were very bad, and nothing but downright starvation made us eat them. Our water ran short, and they had to boil our plum duff in salt water, which spoilt it.” The ship carried a good deal of livestock ― sheep and pigs, chickens, ducks and geese ― which no doubt added to noise as well as smell. All these were running short when the voyage was only half way, but rations could be added to by catching the occasional fish, shark or albatross. A few pigs and sheep were kept to fatten up for Christmas.

Once the passengers had got over their sea-sickness they were able to settle into some kind of routine on board. There was no shortage of advice for intending emigrants and the Brightonians may just have seen a copy of Sidney’s Emigrant’s Journal, which was published in 1849. Much emphasis was placed on physical exercise and “self improvement”: reading, handicrafts, knitting and keeping diaries. Children might be organised into classes for daily lessons. The Ebenezer emigrants had plenty to occupy them, for they kept together as a community. As members of a Particular Baptist congregation they met regularly for worship and John Turner preached twice on Sundays. The Wesleyans and Church of England also held services but the Baptists were especially marked for good singing. Under the direction of Edward Wood, they were invited several times by the captain to give choral concerts on the poop for passengers in the first class cabins. John Turner carried with him a solemn printed Declaration of the Faith and Practice of the Church of Christ which was to guide the building up of the new church in Australia. Dated July 5th 1849, its Article Xll stated “We believe that singing of psalms, hymns and spiritual songs, is an ordinance of the gospel, to be performed by believers; but as to time, place and manner, every one ought to be left to his liberty in using it.” The Declaration has nothing to say about dancing, and we do not know whether the Baptists took part with the other “intermediates” in the dances held by them on two nights a week, with music provided by the two fiddlers on board. Passengers were urged to take exercise and drill, and skipping would not demand much of the limited space available.

The tensions of living so long in crowded conditions were bound sometimes to lead to quarrels and fisticuffs. One of the Baptist party, Thomas Harvey, proved himself on one occasion as a hero and John Chandler clearly enjoyed recalling the incident in Forty Years in the Wilderness.


There was on man on board who was a great bully, his name was Johnston; he was a big man. He insulted some of the young men passengers. One of them threw some soup and bully in his face. He vowed vengeance on them when he caught them on deck. Next morning he caught one of them, a much smaller man than himself, and knocked him against the side on to some spare spars. Another young man came up (I think he was going to the galley for some hot water); his name was Thomas Harvey, he was only 19 years old, whereas the other was nearer 40. Johnston at once attacked Tom, but he soon found out he made a mistake, as Tom knew a little of the science of self-defence. He could not get a blow at Tom, but was floored every time he came near him, and he soon went to his cabin with his face bleeding, and crying. Tom never got a scratch. All the passengers and sailors were very glad to see this man taken down, especially by a smaller man than himself. Of course Tom became the hero of the ship, and all the would-be fighters had a great respect for Tom after that. And we were very glad, for he was one of our party, and his youngest sister is my wife now.

The Ebenezer congregation might have passed a tolerably happy voyage if it had not been for the illness of John Juniper. His letter and that of his friend and fellow passenger, Edward Wood, tell of his treatment for severe inflammation of the bowels which brought him close to death. He finally recovered, as Edward Wood recorded, “by the blessing of God,” for although he was attended by the ship’s surgeon, Dr James D. Smith, the medical man seems not to have been a great help, except in the matter of bleeding and mustard plasters. Ships’ surgeons at this time did not enjoy very good reputations. They might be young and inexperienced, or older men whose standards had gone down with the years. Having personal control of supplies of drugs and liquid “comforts” for the treatment of patients, many became addicts or alcoholics. According to John Chandler, the doctor on the Harpley used to drink all day, “and drank all the medical comforts himself.” At any rate, John Juniper survived, though sadly one of the (?three) deaths on board was that of the baby delivered to Naomi Dadswell at the end of November. Generally there would be a funeral service before the body was committed to the sea.

One ceremony everyone looked forward to was “crossing the line.” The Harpley crossed the equator at 4pm on October 25. Water on board was very short, so there was no ducking or shaving of “first timers.” Neptune however decreed an allowance of grog to all passengers “to return thanks”, the usual tar barrel was set on fire and thrown overboard and the evening finished with music and a dance on the poop. The weather by now was hot and some of the passengers and crew swam round the ship. One non-swimmer put on a lifebelt and joined them. As the ship drifted the distance between them increased and once more it was Tom Harvey who came to the rescue. He jumped overboard, swam to the man and pushed him to the side of the ship.

After more than two months at sea the ship was rounding the Cape when it ran into a severe storm which soon became a hurricane. John Chandler remembered that all night he lay on a table “with a strap around me, fastened to one of the uprights to keep me from rolling off.” The passengers had good reason to be alarmed. One of the crew, Jim the sail-maker, was lost overboard when he was blown off the yardarm during the night. The mountainous seas swept over the sides and flooded into the cabins, drenching beds and clothing. Men had to be lashed to the pumps and the wheel to keep the ship going. At last the winds and the sea died down for the last part of the voyage.

The Harpley was to call en route in South Australia, and the handful of passengers leaving the ship were transferred to a small boat for the remaining fourteen miles into port. Some of the Juniper and Wood party, longing to set foot on land after more than three months on board, decided to make the trip into Adelaide and their letters describe their first impressions of aspects of the voyage and of Southern Australia.
Brighton Gazette 25th April 1850
Early last September Messrs Juniper and Wood and their families, together with a large party of emigrants from this town, sailed from the Downs in the emigrant ship, Harpley, for Australia, where they arrived safe and well

on the evening of Christmas Day, as we learn from letters received in Brighton on Tuesday evening by their friends. We have been favoured with extracts from these letters, which will be read with interest. The following was received by Mr Juniper, of the Western Road, from his brother. The Australian post mark is dated 2nd January 1850.



Adelaide, South Australia

December 26, 1849

My dear Brothers and Sisters,

Through mercy, we are all safe, and just arrived in Adelaide to unship part of the emigrants, and all well, thank God. We left London, as I wrote you before, on the sixth September, and Gravesend on the ninth. We then encountered contrary winds and heavy seas in the Downs, and lost two emigrants with cholera, and one seaman. Great part of the emigrants ill with sea-sickness. My dear wife and Mr Wood continued so for nearly three months. We arrived at Plymouth on the 20th, and left on the 23rd; and on the seventh of October I was taken very ill with inflammation of the bowels. I was bled about seven o’clock in the evening; at ten I had a mustard plaster over my stomach; and at eleven another. The surgeon then left me with a gentleman; and I overheard him say, they would wait till twelve o’clock, when there would be a change one way or the other. By the blessing of God, there was a change for the better. I kept my bed about a fortnight; and, after that, I had my mattress on the skylight of the poop, and lay down there for about five weeks, sleeping at night in the saloon of the cabin, as being more healthy than our cabin ‘tween decks. The captain was exceedingly kind, under the circumstances. My dear wife and Mrs Wood have had hardly a well day since we left London; but are now getting much better, with every appearance of continuing so. We sighted three islands on our voyage and spoke to three vessels only. The voyage is a long and trying one to those not accustomed to it. We had a good strong vessel, which only wanted fresh caulking. We were much annoyed with water running in at our berths in rough weather. We have a good captain, mates, and crew. We caught several large birds, called the albatross, some of which measured eleven feet from tip to tip of wing, and one small and one large shark. On nearing the Australian land, a sailor fell overboard and was drowned. We caught a fine porpoise, which was cut up and eaten by the emigrants and crew, on Christmas Eve. We had fresh pork, mutton, and goose on Christmas day, with good plum pudding, green-gage pie, etc., that is me and my dear wife, from the cabin, plenty of rum, and a bottle of port wine the owner of the vessel gave me (we have the owner and his wife with us, who have provisions in Australia for repairing lead pipes and other things in my line). They have been very kind to me. We have several passengers and some freights to leave at Adelaide; and expect to stop five or six days, and then go on to Port Phillip. Stephen and Susan and Robert and Naomi are all quite well. Naomi (Mrs Dadswell) was confined with a dead child on the twenty sixth of November, and has got up again quite comfortably. Louisa and Naomi have been very sea-sick, and Stephen, like most of the men, had to provide and do all the household work, but they all got over it before we came near Australia. Stephen is helping with my son John in the cuddy, and they get some good scraps. We arrived at Adelaide on Christmas Day at night, when near the whole of the emigrants were on deck. It was a beautiful moonlight night; and this morning is a most beautiful morning, and all well and in good spirits, the Lord be praised. Mr Turner has preached twice on Sundays; prayer meetings in the afternoon, and twice a week with singing, reading and prayers every night, ‘tween decks. We hope this will find you all well. We wish you every blessing. Please to inform all our dear friends of our arrival. My wife’s mother will be very glad to hear, as it will so gladden her poor heart to hear of our safe arrival. We will write you again when we arrive at Port Phillip, and get settled a little. It looks a beautiful country.

From your affectionate brother and sister,

J. and S. Juniper.

Subjoined is an extract from a letter received by Mrs Gillam, of Russell Street, from her son-in-law Mr Wood, the partner of Mr Juniper:-



Port Adelaide, South Australia,

December 25th, 1849.

Dear Mother, We have had a delightful passage. Not one single storm, and only three days’ rain. We have all suffered from sea-sickness, except little George and the baby, who is quite fat and runs alone on the deck. Mr Juniper has had a very dangerous attack of inflammation; but is now quite recovered. He is as thin as a lath. We have been weeks together, and not seen a ship. We passed the Brightman off the Cape of Good Hope. That was the ship that went on shore at Worthing, before we left London, and she has not arrived here yet. We have seen a great many whales, and have caught a shark, and a porpoise. If you direct to me at the Post Office, Melbourne, Port Phillip, the letter will reach us. We dined today on preserved potatoes, with sage and onions, and slices of pork, baked, with a nice plum pudding, and had a bottle of sherry to wash it down. At the time we were eating our dinner, it was between four and five in the morning at Brighton. The weather here is very hot, and in the middle of harvest, but as we have not been on shore we cannot tell you anything about the country. We saw a newspaper this morning, which said that raspberries, and black currants, and apples, and pears were now ripe, so that we hope to have a feast when we go on shore. We must now conclude by wishing you a merry Christmas and a happy new year. We are obliged to send you a short letter as the mail is expected to leave for England. Goodbye!

May the Lord bless you all, are the prayers of your son and daughter, Edward and Mary Wood.
The following is an extract of a letter from Mrs Juniper, written on the cover of the above letter:-
My husband and me and about 20 more went on shore to Adelaide on Wednesday, and remained all night, and enjoyed ourselves very much, after sixteen weeks on board the Harpley. The place is very new; but as fine shops as in England. I could not fancy myself anywhere but in London. We had a good bed; but could not sleep for the musquitoes and bugs. We are just come back, and going to Port Phillip. The captain has given orders for sailing today. We expect to get to our journey’s end, on or about the sixteenth of January.
The following is an extract of a letter received by Mr Gillman, of St James’s Street, from Mr Wood:-

Port Adelaide, Dec. 25, 1849.

Dear Brother Gillman

Having been disappointed in not having met any homeward bound ships to send you any account of our passage towards the land of our adoption, I now sit down to write to you some little account of the voyage, and of our safe arrival at the port of Adelaide, in South Australia. I should have kept a diary had I not been suffering with my dear wife and children from sea-sickness during the first part of the voyage; but knowing the kind interest you feel in our welfare, I shall send you the principal events of the voyage, as far as memory will supply them. We left Plymouth with a fair wind and beautiful weather; but had scarcely lost sight of land before most of us were overtaken by sea-sickness (Mr Wood here relates his duties as housewife, in consequence of the sickness of his family.) The sickness began to abate in a fortnight after leaving Plymouth. It left us when we came to the line. Mr Juniper was in imminent danger of his life; but, by the blessing of God, he has recovered. As regards spiritual things, shipboard is the place (particularly an emigrant ship) to try both faith and patience. As regards the voyage from Plymouth to Adelaide, it has been a most extraordinary one for us. We started with a fair wind, which continued with scarcely any intermission. We arrived at 32º north latitude, on October 2nd; and a few days later entered into the trade winds. Oct. 8th we entered into the Tropic of Cancer, the weather continuing very fine and warm, the trade winds blowing very regularly with a stiff breeze. Oct. 7th, saw a great many flying-fish, and some whales spouting the water. Oct.15th, 8 degrees north of the Line, the wind light and variable, the heat very oppressive, particularly at night. Several were obliged to sleep on deck. Saw several homeward-bound ships; but all too far off to speak to. October 17th, were almost becalmed, but saw a ship making up to us so that we were busily engaged writing letters to send to England; but were disappointed in her not being able to come close alongside. Our captain spoke to her through a speaking trumpet; and reported us all well, and desired the captain to report us when he arrived in England. It was the Lima bound to Cork, from Lima in South America. In a few days after we crossed the line, but did not find it so hot as we expected. We were favoured with light winds almost all the time we were in the tropics, our captain having run the ship considerably nearer the American Continent than the African, which you will perceive by looking at the map for the Island of Trinidad, which we passed on the 4th of November, after which we passed the Island of Tristad Accona, and then stretched east for the coast of Australia having stiff breezes blowing us along till we made land, which we saw on Sunday morning the 23rd December. But here the wind veered round to the north, so that we did not make the port of Adelaide till Christmas day, when we cast anchor for the first time since we left Plymouth. We had no deaths since then; but we have had two births. One poor seaman fell overboard, and was lost the night before we reached the land of Australia. I must now conclude, my dear brother, wishing you and your dear wife every spiritual and temporal blessing; and may you be continually favoured with His gracious presence! Please to give my kindest love to Mr Sedgwick and his dear wife. Tell him we do not forget him at the throne of Grace. The cause at Ebenezer still lays near our hearts in affection; and we do not forget to pray for its prosperity. It is with pleasure and thankfulness that I sometimes feel that the very propitious voyage that we had, has been in answer to the prayers of our dear friends in England.

Yours in Christian love and affection,

Edward Wood.

To Mr W. Gillman

P.S. Please to give my kind respects to Mr Martin and Mr Mighell.

Chapter 4. The Juniper and Wood party: Arrival in Australia.
The Harpley at last arrived in Hobson’s Bay on January 6, 1850. It was 122 days since the ship sailed from London, 111 days from Plymouth, without touching land except at Adelaide. There were no wharves large enough for the Harpley to berth in Port Phillip, so a small steamer, the Diamond, came alongside to collect the passengers and their luggage and land them at Queen’s Wharf.

John Chandler retained vivid memories of his introduction to Melbourne. He was left alone, with a hot wind blowing, to mind the luggage while Mr Foreman went in search of a house in the town. It was four hours before he returned with a horse and dray, to the great relief of the lonely and anxious boy. Stephen Chandler had found a house for his family in Little Lonsdale Street the day before. It had two rooms but only one door.

First impressions of Melbourne were “anything but delightful.” John recalled that there were no roads made, and stumps and logs of trees lay about in the dusty streets. The shops were mostly one-storied, with canvas verandahs. The footpaths were all gravel and there were no kerbs.

There were already Baptists in Melbourne, and they met for worship at the house of the first Baptist minister in the town, John Joseph Mouritz. The Ebenezer congregation joined them on their first Sunday in Australia, and Mr Turner preached. The following week they went to hear him preach at the Collins Street Baptist Chapel, but after that they took a room for themselves at the Mechanics’ Institute for worship. The land at Colac was still waiting for the Ebenezer Baptists to take up their settlement but disappointment was in store for them. Mr Turner showed no inclination to lead them to their own promised land, and instead bought a house in the town where he lived for 46 years, ministering to the earlier settlers and introducing a new doctrine - “that the Holy Spirit should not be addressed in prayer” – which was opposed by most of his Brighton flock. The familiar Ebenezer ways were re-established among them and new members were attracted, and baptised in the Yarra River.



There now seemed little hope of developing the settlement at Colac – a matter of bitter disappointment to Stephen Chandler as he had laid out almost all he had on tools and seed. He and the other men now had to find work of some kind. Mr Wood and Mr Tyler bought small farms at Preston close to Melbourne, while the Chandler family left to work on a farm about twenty miles away. The horse pulling the dray carrying their furniture and other possessions bolted and many things were broken and lost, and the bullocks brought to replace it on the bush tracks ran into some trees and nearly capsized. John Chandler’s own words describe graphically this nightmare journey.
My father engaged with Mr Mouritz at his farm as overseer, my mother as dairy-woman, and I had to herd the cows. Before we left Melbourne there were two members added to the Church, Mr W. Wade, of Bulleen, and another. They were baptised by Mr Turner in the Yarra, at the Falls, where the Queen’s bridge is now. A small tent was erected on the bank of the river for them to change in. This was the first baptising of Strict Baptists in Victoria. The river was a beautiful clear stream at that time.
We started to go to the farm which was about 20 miles from Melbourne. Most of our luggage was put on a bullock dray, with some stores; the remainder was put on a bullock dray, on which we were to ride. As it was not deemed safe for us to ride on the horse dray, as the horse was very excited, we all got on the bullock dray and made a start. The bullocks were slow, and of course there were no roads, only a bush track. We had many exciting scenes, for it was dark, and the thick forest made it much darker. We ran into some trees and very nearly capsized, and then in crossing a creek, the bullocks would not or could not hold the dray back, so they ran down the steep bank into the water where they stopped, drays, bullocks, and all mixed up in a lump. There was very much confusion, for it was dark, and we did not know whether we should all be drowned. Then there was a tremendous lot of hollering and swearing, for bullock drivers as a rule use very foul language, and when they are excited, as they were then, it rolls out in such a way to make one shudder. After some time (and very nearly capsizing us into the creek), they got the team right, and we started again; the drivers being very wet and bad tempered, for they had been up to their waist in water. We had many narrow escapes, for it was very dark in the forest, but we arrived safe at our destination just as dawn was breaking. We were very tired and half dead with the fright we had during the night, and were very glad to turn into an old slab hut, with the ground for a floor, and a few sheets of bark for a roof. We were all soon asleep.
Work at the farm was very hard, and the young John had to mind the cows and learn to manage the bullocks, while his mother did the dairying work – skimming, churning, feeding the calves and pigs – and his father “soon found that he had to turn his hand to anything.” The hands employed on the farm were “Ticket-of-Leave” men from Van Dieman’s Land – convicts who were allowed to work away from the prison before their sentence was completed. John Chandler enjoyed listening to them tell their strange yarns round the fire on a winter’s night, and watched them picking up hot cinders with their fingers to light their pipes. He said he never wished to meet with better-hearted men.
John Chandler wrote of his memories many years later, but both John Juniper and Edward Wood sent letters back to Brighton that tell in some detail of the life in Melbourne soon after their arrival. Prices of everyday goods were reported in detail as well as news of various members of their party. The family letters were published in the Gazette and John Juniper kept his promise to send an account to the Brighton Herald.
Brighton Herald, Saturday 27 July 1850.

We have received the following letter from Mr Juniper (of the firm Juniper and Wood, ironmongers, North-St), who lately emigrated from Brighton with a large party of their fellow townsmen. It will be read with interest by Mr Juniper’s many friends.



Melbourne, Port Philip, Australia March 8, 1850

Sir,- According to my promise, I write to give you the best information I can get, with the little experience I have as yet had of this far distant land – the land of Promise. Certainly, it is a good land and productive a few miles from the sea. I have seen as fine gardens seven or eight miles from Melbourne as in England, with fruit trees and vines loaded with fruit, which fetches a good price in the market, there being but few gardens, comparatively, to the number of inhabitants, and few gardens to houses in or near the town; for the people are so intent on getting money, that they do not look to comforts of house or garden, so that scarce anyone grows so much as a cabbage.

Land is getting very dear in and near the town. Some ground was sold the other day in town at the rate of two thousand pounds the acre, and in the suburban districts £30, £40, and £50 the acre. Eight or nine miles from town, Government is selling land at £1 per acre; but it requires great labour to clear and cultivate it. Land is being taken up and laid out in little farms, to the great annoyance of the large aristocratic sheep and cattle farmers, who are being driven, like the kangaroos, far into the interior.

The town of Melbourne has more than doubled in size within the last two years and is a very rising place. Many persons are making rapid fortunes, while, as in England, many are not, although I have not heard of any one being in want; for if a man, or boy, or woman will work, they are well paid.

Meat and bread are very cheap; fine legs of mutton, 2d. per lb; fore-quarter of mutton, 1¾d. per lb.; best rump steaks 2d. per lb.; and two or three lbs. of meat, off a fresh shin of beef, given in for the dog. Bread, 2½d. and 3d. the 4lb loaf, and very good – the best I ever ate or saw. Fine water melons, as big as a man’s hat, for 3d., 4d., and 6d. each; but for all this, it is not the country for every man. I have seen many that have come out who have wished they had stopped at home. It is a good country for a man to come to that works hard at home for anything under twenty shillings a week; but for clerks there is no room in the towns; they are obliged to go in the Bush to tend cattle or sheep. There have been a great many vessels here lately with full cargoes of emigrants – two from Germany – within a fortnight, and many more expected, and a large number of different trades; and my candid opinion is, that if a person is getting a comfortable living at home, or is in some things a little inconvenienced, he had better stop at home; for if he comes here he will not find it all smooth, and the sacrifice that they make, and the long and tedious voyage, are such as would not be compensated by the change – that is, in most cases.

House rent is very high in town. It is a well laid–out town – the streets very wide and straight, and cross streets at right–angles; many good houses and shops, and auction sales of merchandise nearly every day; but the goods brought out from England in many cases do not fetch the invoice price, by 20, 30, and 40 per cent, there being a glut in the market; and parties coming out will do well to bring money instead of goods. I have commenced in ironmongery again. I have taken a house at £73 a year. Mr Wood, my late partner, and Mr Tyler, have bought a small farm each, and are about entering on it – about six miles from Melbourne. The rest of the Brighton emigrants with us have got into business or into work. Mr Turner, the Baptist minister, performed service on the poop all the voyage, and is likely to be settled in Melbourne, as the people are willing to support him and have taken the Mechanics’ Hall for him, and some are building him a chapel. The whole of the Brighton emigrants arrived safe and are, I believe, in good health. We had what is called a good voyage – 97 days out. We called at Adelaide on Christmas Day, and they were in the middle of their harvest.

I visited a boiling–down establishment at Geelong, where they were boiling down a thousand sheep a day which lasted many weeks; and then came the bullocks for the same purpose. The heads were used for fuel for the furnace. The native population are fast decreasing, as also is the snake. The Melbourne paper relates a sad circumstance from a Van Dieman’s Land paper of a boy having being bit by a snake through the heel of his boot. His heel took to swelling, and he died in a few hours. Some time after the next brother was taken with a similar swelling in the heel and died also in a few hours; and in a short time after the third brother was taken and died. This caused a physician to go and enquire the cause. He examined the boy’s boot and there found the tooth of the snake the first boy was bit by, and the other boys had, one after the other, worn the boot with the tooth, which had grazed the heel.

The vessel is about to start for England. I must therefore close this long, and, perhaps, you will say, tedious epistle. If you think that a part or the whole is worth a place in your paper, you can use it; if not, please send it to my brother, Charles Juniper, top of North-St., Brighton.

John Juniper, Ironmomger, Melbourne, Port Philip, Australia
Brighton Gazette 1st August 1850.

A letter has been received by Mr Cuttress, miller, 3 Clifton Terrace from Mr Wood, of the firm Juniper and Wood who left this town towards the close of 1849 for Australia.


Melbourne, March 9th,1850

Dear Brother and Sister ,-

It is with great pleasure I write to inform you of our safe arrival at Port Phillip on the 6th January. We had a very delightful voyage but a great deal of sea-sickness – Mrs Wood suffered a great deal, but is quite well now. This is a very delightful country but trade is not so good as was represented at home. Provisions are cheap here. We get a fore quarter of good mutton for 1s.6d.; beef, 2d per lb; tea, 1s.6d. per lb.; coffee, 9d.; and sugar, 3d. I have opened a shop and am selling Jones’s patent flour and fine and seconds flour, so that I am now in your trade. There are no windmills here, but plenty of steam and watermills. Since we have been here the wind has not blown strong enough for a windmill. I have just bought a little farm in good cultivation, with a house, pig stys and sheds, and ten acres of land, all fenced in, with a nice garden and fruit trees, for £100. I think of farming and carrying on the flour trade together, so that I shall have my hands full of work. The next time I write I will tell you how we are getting on. I have not seen any snakes since we have been here, but plenty of flies and mosquitoes. There are no beggars here, and we have been miles in the country, but very seldom see any blacks. What few there are very harmless. Very few people here have any gardens, they in the town keep hens and goats, some keep a cow, which costs them 6d a week for a man to take and drive them several hundred in a drove a few miles into the country to feed. I am going to buy two cows off Stephen Vincent on Monday next, for £3.10s. The two Mr Vincents and Mighell have hired three acres of land and a cottage for £12 a year, which I

think is very dear. Mr Juniper has opened an ironmonger’s shop in Melbourne. Mr Tyler has bought thirty acres of land next to mine; Mr Foreman is going to have five acres off him. Tell Mr Waterer and Mr Wigney I shall write soon to them. Give my love to all enquiring friends.

I remain, yours sincerely,

E.Wood.

Chapter 5. Early days in Melbourne and the Gold Rush begins.
The Juniper and Wood party gradually adjusted to their new lives in Australia. John Chandler, still only 12 in 1850, took a number of jobs that often demanded hard physical labour and the strength of a grown man. First he was to handle bullocks, later pigs and horses. For a time he was employed in a brickworks. These were hard times for the whole family. John’s father, Stephen, the main breadwinner, was only earning one pound a week, seven shillings of which went on rent. His mother started a school for small children and when this venture failed the family moved to “a little hut in Little Lonsdale Street” at a cheaper rent. She then began to take in washing for a boarding school and John started work as an errand boy, but found he was not strong enough to carry heavy loads. All the family were brought low with poor health caused by overwork (in addition to their outside employment water and wood had to be fetched at the end of the working day), and an inadequate diet meant semi-starvation. Sadly for the recent arrivals, the prosperity of earlier years had been too narrowly based on its wool exports, and when prices fell a slump followed. Land prices too fell and there were many insolvencies. John’s job with the 600 pigs he had to mind and feed was at “Raleigh’s boiling down place.” “Boiling down” works sprang up where previously valuable animals were sold for a few pence for tallow, which became a more valuable export.

Back in England, Brighton continued to expand and enjoy its reputation as the premier seaside resort on the south coast, and was by now the well-established “Queen of Watering Places.” By the end of 1850 however the focus shifted to London where the Prince Consort had begun to chair meetings of the committee formed to plan for a great exhibition to be held the following year. In May 1851 people all over Britain shared in the excitement as Queen Victoria, accompanied by her husband Prince Albert opened the “Crystal Palace” in Hyde Park. It took 18 acres to house this first truly international exhibition. Special excursions brought thousands from every part of the country to wonder at the marvellous collections of objects, many of them made in Britain but also displaying ingenious inventions and manufactures from other parts of the world. Early in June the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway Company was offering its workmen free excursions, each man given two tickets to see the exhibition. One Monday morning a special train left Brighton station “at a quarter before seven o’clock….with the engine gaily decorated with flags and evergreens, and the railway band playing appropriate airs.” On that day two trains were needed to carry 1155 persons to London. In July the Gazette, under the heading “The Poor and the Great Exhibition,” reported on a trip being arranged for the “bathers of the town” (women who were employed to “dip” visitors in the sea) and another for over 300 children from Charity Schools in Brighton.

Meanwhile, at the other side of the world, there was excitement for quite a different reason. There had often been rumours that shepherds in the Blue Mountains close to Sydney had found small pieces of gold washed down in the streams. Little was made of this talk, and the attention of the world was focused on the discovery of gold in California. Between 1848 and 1850 the population of San Francisco increased from 1500 to 15,000. In 1850 two hundred ships left Sydney for California. One man spent little time there digging for gold, but was intent on seeing exactly where and how the discoveries were made. From his observations he believed that similar terrain in Australia might be gold country. In January 1851 Edward Hargreaves arrived back in Sydney and made for the Blue Mountains. He soon struck gold. By April operations had begun at Ophir and in May on the Turon river, earning him a reward from Governor Fitzroy of £10,000. (The sad death of “poor Henry Roberts” took place on the Turon. See page 40.)

As these discoveries were being made in the Blue Mountains, not far from Sydney, preparations were under way in Melbourne for the formal separation of the Port Phillip area from the rest of New South Wales. The year had begun badly, with a great and terrible bush fire in February, known ever after as Black Thursday. It was experienced by John Chandler when he took his horses to water at the river and was engulfed by dust, smoke and ashes. A few months later these events were almost forgotten as Charles Joseph La Trobe, appointed in 1838 as Superintendent of the Port Phillip province (he took up his duties in 1839) prepared to assume his new title of Lieutenant-Governor of the sixth independent colony in Australia, named Victoria for the queen. With a new constitution he could now exercise his powers without reference to the Government in Sydney. There was general rejoicing in Melbourne, with a grand procession, flags, illuminations and bonfires. Elections followed for the new parliament. The discovery of gold in New South Wales suggested that it might be worth prospecting in Victoria. A meeting was held at the Mechanics’ Institute in Melbourne on June 9,1851 and a reward of 200 guineas was offered for the discovery of gold in profitable quantities within 200 miles. In July gold was found at Clunes, in August at Buninyong, in September at Ballarat, in October at Castlemaine (Mount Alexandra) and Forest Creek and in December at Bendigo. Shipping across the Pacific now reversed direction and the “army of ants” all over the colony heralded the beginning of the great Australian gold rush.

When news of the first discoveries at Buninyong and Ballarat reached the Chandlers, John and his father were loading stores at a quarry. One of the other men said “No more stone, Chandler, we are off to the diggings tomorrow.” The two Chandlers formed a party with their Baptist friends – Messrs. Juniper, Wood, Tyler, Allen, Vincent, Dadswell and Fairhall. In his memoirs, John Chandler remembered that “they all got tents, stores, tools, cradles, ropes, tin dishes, buckets and everything they thought was necessary” and off they went. The going was very difficult and on their first night they held a meeting round the camp fire, and “hymns were sung and prayer was offered up.” They were among the first parties on the road, but already there were “all sorts” going – “doctors, lawyers, tradesmen, farmers, sailors and policemen,” some with possessions carried in carts, or by horses or bullocks, and others pushing wheelbarrows. They all had a bad time going through Bacchus Marsh, then up and over hills, only to find another marshy area, Blow’s Flat, ahead of them. The drays were bogged down more than once and had to be lifted up with levers while logs were put down, and then pulled out with ropes. After travelling over 80 miles, they arrived at Golden Point, and made their camp. In John’s words, “There were about 200 tents there, but no stores; most people had brought their own. The next day was the Sabbath, and as it was raining we fixed up a tarpaulin, tied to four saplings, and under this was preached the first sermon that was preached on Ballarat. A

true, simple Gospel sermon by Mr D.Allen, and the forest rang with the praise of the Lord. We had some good singers, and many came round attracted by the singing…”

It is sad to record that the following day Stephen Chandler was ill with dysentery and quickly became worse. Stephen Vincent also became ill, and young John, though “much disappointed for I wanted some gold,” accompanied the two men on their return journey back to Melbourne. Here he found his mother unwell too. For a time John stayed in Melbourne, where the work was still hard, buy generally wages were good as so many of the men were away at the diggings. Many stayed at the diggings in the hope of making their fortunes. The Brighton Gazette published a letter as early as January 22, 1852, received by Mr J.O.N. Rutter, Superintendent of Black Rock Gas Works, and written from Sydney on August 23 of the previous year. His correspondent (who may or may not have originated in Brighton) wrote “You will ere now have heard of our wonderful discovery. This is the land of Gold! Here I have been residing more than thirty years in the very midst of aurifluous treasures; and never knew, or suspected the fact, until about three months ago.” He continued his letter on September 10 from Rocky Point, George’s River, near Sydney, relating the tale of “a person of the name of Hargreaves” who had rightly guessed that “the Bathurst district (of New South Wales) possessed gold as abundantly as California.” By the middle of 1851 however the new colony of Victoria was already showing promise of an even greater abundance of those “aurifluous treasures.”

At last, in June there was one letter in the Gazette from a member of the Juniper and Wood party – Louisa Vincent. This adds more immediate impressions to John Chandler’s account, written many years later. Its tone is positive and optimistic, and shows how the Ebenezer Baptists stuck together and sensibly shared their time between the diggings and other necessary work (cutting the hay and the corn) and temporary jobs (particularly carting) which enabled them to make a reasonable living, with just a chance of finding a golden fortune.

Already, in April, the Gazette had published extracts from two letters “just received in Brighton” from “Elizabeth” to her brother and father. Accompanied by “George”- presumably her husband – she had travelled out to Australia independently some time in 1851. From her account it seems that they were first class passengers on the ship and the mention of titled friends suggests that they were socially superior to, and certainly had no connection with, the Ebenezer Baptists of the Juniper and Wood party or the “mechanics and tradesmen’s sons” who were to follow them in 1852. George’s intention was to “take a (sheep?) station” – an occupation considered suitable for a gentleman. Anthony Trollope, whose son Frederic was to do just this a dozen or so years later, referred to their status as akin to “colonial aristocracy, what the lords and the county gentlemen are at home.” Unfortunately the acquisition of vast acres of grazing land was an expensive business even at a time of economic depression and George had not got enough money “so his friends persuaded him to go to the diggings.” George was lucky in that this was the year that gold had been discovered in Victoria and the early arrivals at the diggings had the advantage of the best pickings on or near the surface. We do not know what happened to George or Elizabeth, though by November 25 (the date of the second letter,) she was at least temporarily established in Brighton, one of Melbourne’s new suburbs facing Port Phillip Bay, and had already acquired from colonial “old hands” a shaky understanding of aboriginal beliefs and practices. Unfortunately there is no clue to the identity of Elizabeth.

One other letter published in the Gazette in 1852 came from a Brighton man that we do know about. It was sent by William James Palgrave to his sister, Mrs Kitchner, of East Street. He had arrived independently in Australia in 1849 – that is, before the Juniper and Wood party. He does not seem to have had any connection with the Brighton Baptists, and John Chandler never mentions him in Forty Years. Palgrave brought with him his wife’s nephew, Alfred Nye, then aged two. When gold was discovered he was among the first at the diggings. Unfortunately his earlier letter to his sister was not published, but that of August 1852 records that he had already experienced both success and failure as a gold seeker. (His first wife died in Australia in 1859 and he returned to England with his three girls, leaving behind Alfred, then about thirteen years old. His name appears, with a new family, in the 1881 census, when he was a boarding-house keeper in Brighton.)




Brighton Gazette, Thursday, June 24th 1852
Letter from a Brighton emigrant to Australia (Louisa Vincent.)
Melbourne, February 21st, 1852

My dear Sisters and Brothers,

I am happy to say that I have enjoyed good health ever since I have been here, and now I must say something about the gold fields, which I expect you have heard of; for I know there is a good deal come to England, from here, where it has made a great change in everything. Although gardening was a good business, we have left it for a time and are living at Melbourne. Stephen goes to the gold diggings with loadings from the stores, and is about four days and a half on the journey, for which he gets £15, as he has a fine horse and dray for which he has several times been offered £60. There are a great many more horses here now than there were when we first arrived. I cannot describe to you the great change the gold has made at Melbourne. It was increasing fast before the gold was found; but now it puts me in mind of London. Vessels come in from all parts of the world, and are troubled to get away again, as the sailors run off to the diggings; and they are offering £100 for able seamen for England. Captain Buckwell, from Brighton, was here about three months ago. He called on brother John, and said he would take anything to England for us; I thought of sending a parcel to you, but his men all started for the diggings, and then he went off himself. Since then, he went with the vessel to Geelong, and I could not get to see him, so I was disappointed, as I mean to send you a nugget of gold, to let you see how it looks in its natural state.

Some people in Brighton said when we came away from England, that they supposed we thought to pick up gold when we came to Australia. Now if we did think so, we were not deceived; for we have picked it up.

Stephen, Robert and John have all been to dig gold; but they stopped only two weeks, as they were obliged to come home because the hay and corn on our land that we bought was ready to be cut, and they thought it best to secure it, as hay and corn are dear, and likely to be so for some time, as people will not turn their attention to any thing but gold digging. Brother John is gone again today, as his son John is there; and Stephen and Robert think of having another turn at it when the wet weather comes, as it is now summer here and the water is so low that it is difficult to wash the gold. Rents and every thing are very dear at Melbourne; but that does not matter, for there are few persons here but what have plenty of gold.

Adelaide and Van Dieman’s land are almost forsaken. The Americans are now bringing us flour and grain, which is a very good thing, for we must depend on other nations, for our colonists will neither plough nor dig except for gold. All wages are very dear. Flour is £2 a sack, and groceries are dearer than they were; but meat is about the same – two pence a pound to three pence. Spirits are very dear; and the publicans are making their fortunes faster than anybody else. There is one that we knew that is saving £100 a week. Wine is cheap, and we can get port wine at 1s 10d a bottle by taking two gallons; but the publicans make their profit by selling it in small quantities. I only wish you were here; for in six months I know you could save a fortune. If you were only thinking to do so, I must say this is the country for it, and I am confident that any poor man who wishes to be paid for his labour has only to come here; for there is no comfort in England but what you can have here; for you have got money…… I can say that there are no poor people here, but those who make themselves so by their intoxication.

Believe me, I would not induce you or anybody else to come if I did not think it would be for your good. I know when we were in England I was half persuaded to come out, but had not the gold been found there was a three fold better chance of getting a living here than in England. I must tell you we are all happy and comfortable in every respect, and was it not for thinking of you all we would not wish to call England to our memory any more.

To W. Tattersall, Jolly Fisherman, Brighton.

Brighton Gazette 15th April 1852



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