Parish life in the north of scotland
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| Since my settlement at Resolis I had continued to hold a close and brotherly intercourse with my highly gifted and beloved relative the late Mr. Donald Fraser, minister of Kirkhill. Mr. (afterwards Dr.) MacDonald of Ferintosh, Mr. John Kennedy of Killearnan, and he, were my guides and friends, with whom I had delighted to hold sweet counsel on sacramental and other occasions at Kirkhill, Ferintosh, Resolis and elsewhere. Mr. Fraser was at the time secretary, as he was indeed the founder, of the Inverness Society for the education of the poor in the Highlands. With him was associated, in the same office, Mr. Alexander Clark, his co-presbyter and one of the ministers of Inverness, but on Mr. Fraser rested chiefly the labour and responsibility which attached to it. The Society established schools in every direction, but it was on the condition that, in every parish where one had been established, contributions should be made. This condition was but very partially fulfilled, and the Society began to be rather hampered for want of funds. To remedy this evil it appeared to Mr. Fraser that the proper course was to extend the sphere of the Society's operations. Adopting this proposal, he thought of the practicability of a mission, in favour of the Society, to Sutherland and Caithness, and he and I were, by the Directors, appointed for that purpose.
In the first instance Mr. Fraser begged that I should write Mr. Kennedy of Dornoch intimating all I knew of the subject, and asking in the most deferential terms if he would agree that our deputation should occupy his pulpit on a certain Sabbath, if so that he would have the goodness to intimate the same oil the previous one. To my letter so written Mr. Kennedy replied, and, after some reference to Mr. Fraser's "very venal offence of being a young man," he agreed to the proposal. On informing Mr. Fraser of the success of my negotiation with Mr. Kennedy, he urged the necessity of our beginning operations as soon as possible. All preliminaries being determined, Mr. Fraser arrived at my house on the evening of the 23rd September, from which we on the next day went to Dornoch. On Sabbath, the 25th, Mr. Fraser preached at Dornoch, and I at the neighbouring parish of Rogart. I rode to Rogart on the morning of Sabbath, preached in Gaelic and English, and dined with the minister, Mr. John Mackenzie. He was the son of Donald Mackenzie, tacksman of Tagan, in Gairloch, Ross-shire, who had been my father's companion in youth. John had been my fellow-student at the Edinburgh Hall. After the Disruption in 1843 he became my successor in the Established Church of Resolis. He had some skill in medicine, not much, yet a great deal more than he had in "ministering to a soul diseased." He. received me into his manse with polite kindness and civility. I left Rogart the same evening for Dornoch, and on Monday, the 26th of September, Mr. Fraser and I went to Clyne, where Mr. Fraser preached, and a large collection for our society was made ; and where both of us were hospitably entertained at the house of a Mr. Harper, the tacksman of Clynelish, and a distiller. This was during a vacancy in that parish -The Rev. Walter Ross having died shortly before. On Tuesday following we preached at Loth, Mr. Donald Ross being the minister of the parish. For some years Mr. Ross was minister of Kilmuir in Skye. At the time that MacPherson, in a splenetic fit, resigned the pastoral charge of Golspie, resisted all the solicitations of the Presbytery of Dornoch, as well as of his own friends, to retract his resignation, and persisted in his intention, Mr. Ross was presented by the Marchioness of Stafford to the living. As he was about to be presented, however, MacPherson reappeared to claim the living, and, the case being carried by appeal to the Assembly, it was voted, on the motion of Dr. Cook of St. Andrews, that MacPherson should be restored, and Mr. Ross, although already inducted, set aside. The patrons resolved to make up the loss to the disappointed presentee. Rogart became vacant soon afterwards, by the death of my relative, Mr. George Urquhart, and Mr. Ross was presented, with the assurance that any vacant living in the gift of the patrons, preferable in point of emolument to Rogart, should be at his disposal. Accordingly when, by the death of Mr. G. Gordon, the larger living of Loth became vacant, Mr. Ross was presented to the living. He afterwards became involved in debt, and reduced in circumstances and in character. We pushed on to Latheron. On our way we crossed the Ord of Caithness. The old road over this promontory-the same identically which William, Earl of Caithness, nearly four centuries ago, had passed with his gallant band, clad in green, to the fatal battle of Flodden was really dangerous. It lay within a foot, and stretched along the very edge, without any protecting buttress, of a precipice 800 feet above the sea. We were, however, more fortunate. A new road had been made in 1804 from the Meikleferry to Wick, the expenses. of which were paid partly by the proprietors and partly by the Exchequer. In passing the Ord this road, instead of edging on the brink of the precipice, as formerly, was carried by an easy sweep over the top of the hill. As we drove up the western side, a striking view of the German Ocean, just at its junction with the Moray Firth, suddenly presented itself. On Mr. Fraser the effect was solemnising; he remarked that a beautiful analogy subsisted between the material and invisible worlds ; that he had often attempted to form purely ideal conceptions of Eternity without success, and that to him the most striking emblem of it-conveying a definite idea to the senses of that which of itself is altogether incomprehensible-was a view over the expanse of ocean from an eminence such as that on which we were stationed, knowing as we did, at the same time, that it extended invisible far beyond the line of the horizon. We came to the manse of Latheron in the evening,- where we were received with the utmost civility and welcome. My sister-in-law Maria (Mrs. Davidson), the very personification of meekness combined with unfeigned piety, was especially kind. Mr. Fraser preached, on the 28th Sept., in both languages. At Latheron we fell in and conversed with a goodly number of those from Kildonan who, when driven thence by territorial and aristocratic oppression, found an asylum in the parish of Latheron. Among others was the eminently pious and gifted George Mackay, the eldest son of Donald, my father's catechist. He received us with the ripe affability of an old believer. Though driven from Liriboll in his native Strath, he continued to minister in his vocation to the small remnant still residing in Kildonan. The next day we went to Watten, where, on the 29th September, I preached. Mr. Fraser left us, intending to preach at Wick on Sabbath, October 2nd, and I remained with Mr. Gunn until the Saturday. During my residence in Caithness I had become slightly acquaints with him, but this was the first time that I had the opportunity fully to enter into and to estimate the excellency of his Christian and ministerial character. The simplicity of his faith, the soundness of his views, and the heaven-tending earnestness of his spirit made me feel that, while I was scarce a disciple, he was truly a master in Israel. 5: The intimates of his home at the time were his excellent helpmate, the daughter of Mr. Arthur, my immediate predecessor at Resolis, and a sweet-looking girl of about seventeen, his brother's daughter. On Saturday, the 1st October, I went to the manse of Thurso, where Mr. Mackintosh received me with a hearty welcome. I had not seen him for several years, and I was riot a little struck with his appearance. Stout and healthy before, he was now greatly reduced. Mrs. Mackintosh was almost the same as when I first saw her, twelve or thirteen years before. They had five of a family-four daughters and one son. The eldest, Catherine, a very handsome woman, whom I recollect to have seen as a mere girl twelve years before, was married to Captain Sutherland, who bad in lease the farm of Ulbster. The second daughter, Elizabeth, had newly returned from Edinburgh, where she had been at a boarding-school. Christina, Camilla, and James were still at school. My first sight of Elizabeth was accompanied with an indescribable impression, for I took the fancy that her lot and mine were henceforth one and indivisible, or, as the English marriage service has it, "for better for worse." Next day I preached at Reay, and, in the evening returned to the manse of Thurso, and found Mr. Fraser there before me. On Monday Mr. Fraser preached at Thurso, and I at Dunnet. Among his hearers were, Sir John Sinclair, Bart., with his son Mr. George Sinclair of Ulbster, and wife. With Mr. Jolly, 6: minister of Dunnet, I was acquainted ever since the year 1812, when I resided at Bower and Stemster. He was then, as formerly, vigorous and active in the discharge of his parochial duties, and as devoted as over to the guidance of Arminius in Scripture interpretation. "Whitby on the New Testament" was his favourite commentary and vade mecum from his study to his pulpit. My sermon rudely crossed the path of some of his favourite points, but without any intention on my part. After dining I left for Thurso and again found my fellow-deputy before me at the manse. Next day we preached at Halkirk - I in Gaelic and he in English. On the morning of Tuesday, the 4th October, before we set out, we breakfasted at the castle of Thurso East. It was previously agreed that Sir John and Mr. G. Sinclair should accompany us to Halkirk, and the Lady Camilla had also agreed to go. Her husband Mr. Sinclair, however, had an appointment with Mr. Innes of Sandside for that day, and could not attend. Mr. Fraser and I, therefore, set out for Halkirk, Sir John and Lady Camilla almost immediately following. My sermon in Gaelic was preached in a cold and formal spirit to a cold and formal audience. Mr. Fraser's English discourse was different. It was a lucid and Scriptural exposition of that beautiful expression of holy desire, " 0 send forth thy light with thy truth." His application of the text, with reference to the godly upbringing of poor children in the Highlands and Islands, was appropriate, suitable and impressive. The sermon was greatly admired, and by none more than by Lady Camilla, and she thought fit to enter into a strict investigation with Mr. Fraser as to how, in so short a time, he could prepare so masterly a discourse. We dined with the worthy minister, Mr. John Munro, the cordial choice of the people of Halkirk, and, in accordance therewith, the presentee of the patron, Sir John Sinclair. In equally good taste, therefore, Sir John and the Lady were, along with us, invited as guests on the occasion. At dinner, as host, Mr. Munro did not feel himself exactly in his element. The carving he delegated to me, especially a well-roasted leg of mutton highly recommended to us for its excellent taste and flavour. Sir John, among his many other patriotic efforts to promote the improvement of the north of Scotland, had introduced the merino breed of sheep into Caithness. High compliments were paid Sir John during the repast, and after dinner the subject was renewed by our drinking the worthy baronet's health, to which he replied at great length. In the evening, Sir John returned home with his daughter-in-law, and Mr. Fraser and I remained over night, crossing the hill of Sordal next morning in order to preach at Bower. The line of road was so rugged as, in many places, to put us within almost a hairbreadth of being overturned. We ascended the west side of the hill, until we reached the great road leading from Thurso to Wick; then, nearly at a right angle, striking off the road, we proceeded to the north-west, until we came within a few yards of the manor-house of Stempster, my old quarters in 1812, after which we drove in an easterly direction towards Bower manse by a road which had not been either improved, or even slightly repaired, for half a century at least. Mr. Fraser preached one of the clearest, most forcible and impressive sermons I ever heard. His concluding address in behalf of our society was in keeping with the sermon which preceded it. At the close of the services I met with my old patron Stempster. We greeted each other with cordiality. I was so full of my excellent and gifted friend's sermon that one of my first questions to him was, how he liked it.? He said he did not know, but his object in coming from his home today was only to gratify his curiosity by hearing me preach and not the stranger, whom he neither knew nor cared anything about. I replied that "I regretted that very much," and so our conference broke off. The service in church being ended, we went to the manse. Mr. Smith, my early acquaintance, and his wife, whom as such. I saw for the first time, received us with much kindness. Mr. Smith was not much changed from what he was about twelve years before, when, as parochial schoolmaster of Bower, I resided in his house. Mrs. Smith was a younger daughter of the late Mr. Sinclair of Barrock, one of his heritors. She was young enough to be Mr. Smith's daughter, since he himself had in her infancy baptised her. They had a numerous family, but none of them were with him at this time. We drove to Olrig in the evening, distant from Bower about four miles. The plan agreed upon was, Mr. Fraser should preach at Olrig next day, and I at Canisbay, on Thursday the 6th of October. We arrived at Olrig manse, and found my early friend, Mr. William Mackenzie, waiting for us. I had frequently met with him when residing in Caithness about twelve years before. His father, the late Mr. George Mackenzie, was then living, and at his hospitable manse I was frequently a welcome guest. His eldest son was then, even as I was myself, a candidate for the ministry, neither of us very promising for the holy office to which we aspired. William succeeded his father as minister of Olrig, and when we visited him in 1825 he was unmarried, his sisters by his father's second marriage living with him. 7: Leaving my fellow-labourer to preach there, I set out early next morning for Canisbay. Crossing the sands of Dunnet bay, and proceeding onward, close by the manse, I drove past the farmhouse of Rattar, and the old baronial castle of Mey, and arrived at the manse of Canisbay in time for breakfast. Mr. James Smith, the minister, met me at the door, and gave me a most gentlemanly reception. I had been at his house many years before on a sacramental occasion. He was brother of Mr. Smith of Bower, and both of them were the sons of Mr. Smith of Olrig, the immediate predecessor of Mr. George Mackenzie. The congregation, which I afterwards addressed, did not meet until 12 o'clock noon, and even then but a mere handful assembled. The majority of them, if they knew little of the value of education, knew far less of that of the gospel. Mr. Smith's sermons were fitter for the Chair of a Professor of Church History or Ethics than for the pulpit of a minister of " the pure Evangel." But at the hour appointed the bell rang, and Mr. Smith accompanied me down to the church, a ruinous Scandinavian building, intimating by its appearance, evidently, that it must have been erected as far back as the days of Paul II., Earl of Orkney, or of his successor, Rognvald Kalle. The inside of the fabric was, like all Caithness churches in those times, quite in keeping with the outside, that is, in utter confusion. The congregation was as small as it was unconcerned-they seemed as little impressed with the great truths of the gospel declared to them in their own, as if spoken to them in an unknown, tongue. Mr. Smith showed his hospitality both by precept and example. He was almost of gigantic proportions - considerably over six feet, and very stout. He indulged to an extent which I could not but think dangerous, in the luxuries of the table. My augury proved but too true, for he did not live much more than four months from that day. He died of inflammation of the bowels on the 31st of January, 1826, in the 51st year of his age. I came to Olrig that evening, and from thence we proceeded to Thurso. Before leaving Thurso manse I took occasion, in a private interview with Mr. Mackintosh, to intimate the state of my feelings and affections towards his daughter Elizabeth, to which he lent a favourable ear, but said that she had gone to visit her sister, Mrs. Sutherland, at Ulbster, and was soon afterwards to accompany her younger sister Christina to Edinburgh to place her in a boarding-school. He would, he added, communicate my wishes to Elizabeth on her return from Ulbster, and she would write me personally. On Friday, the 7th October, we left Thurso after breakfast, and taking, what is usually called the Causeymire road from Thurso to Berriedale Inn as the shortest, we stopped that evening at the manse of Latheron. From thence we came to Helmisdale, and there I remained to preach on the following Sabbath. Mr. Fraser preached at Golspie on the same day. At Helmisdale I had a great congregation, Mr. Campbell, my father's successor, deeming it unnecessary to preach at Kildonan at all, from the paucity of the inhabitants. Our two remaining engagements in Sutherland were at Lairg and Creich. I met Mr. Fraser at Golspie on Monday the 10th of October; from thence we set out for Lairg. We were hospitably entertained in the evening at Rogart by Mr. Mackenzie, and lodged there at night. Next day we arrived at Lairg to breakfast, and, if my memory serves me aright, Mr. Fraser preached. Mr. D. MacGillivray, the minister, gave us a most brotherly reception, and next day, at an early hour, we left Lairg and arrived at the manse of Creich for breakfast. We afterwards engaged in the services of the day, when Mr. Fraser preached in Gaelic and I in English. And so terminated our engagements in behalf of the "Inverness Edinburgh Society," in the counties of Sutherland and Caithness. What the sums contributed by each of the congregations we visited were, or what the amount of the whole, I cannot now recall. But I do recollect that at the annual meeting at Inverness, some months after our return, where Mr. Fraser read a report of the Society's operations for the preceding year, the thanks of the meeting to Mr. Fraser and myself were moved by my old acquaintance, Captain Robert Sutherland, formerly of Drumoy in Golspie, but then residing at Inverness, I may here observe that, the directors having appointed a committee to investigate the state of education in the Highlands and Islands and to report, that report was drawn up by Mr. Fraser of Kirkhill, 8: and read by him at the annual meeting held at Inverness on the 2nd Nov., 1825, and ordered to be printed. It was entitled "Moral Statistics," which indeed ,justly belonged to it, from the comprehensive view of the whole subject in all its bearings which it embraced. The report was so admirably constructed as to be favourably noticed by the "Edinburgh Review.” From this date I kept up a regular correspondence with Mr. Mackintosh and his daughter Elizabeth. Oil the 19th October he wrote me that he had spoken to Elizabeth, communicating my wishes, and that she herself would write me on the subject. His letter to me was so full of piety and good sense that I must refer to its more important passages. " Eliza," he wrote, " is just now at Ulbster, on a visit to her sister, where she may remain a week or two, for such is their mutual attachment as to find it not very easy to keep separate. I have not failed to deliver to her your friendly message, and I am happy to say that she expressed no objection to your person, profession, or plan-only regretted she had not more acquaintance with you, not so much as to have heard you preach, and that she felt shy to write. As far as I can learn, her affections are disengaged, and a little time and acquaintance may bring near what may now appear distant. Rest assured, my dear Sir, that my wife and I would always feel happy to see her with a highly-esteemed minister of the gospel, as well as to see you here. Yet your coming here immediately, so long a journey when the weather is broken, might put you to unnecessary trouble and expense; besides, your appearance would excite the curiosity of meddling neighbours, and expose you and Eliza to the tongues of the world, which the firmness of the philosopher can scarcely withstand." But, after giving such sound and philosophical advice, he adds that “if we be mutually spared until June next, when, Deo libente et jarunte, I intend to dispense the Communion, and you come here to help at that solemnity, who knows, after the more sacred duties are over, but you might prevail to bring home with you a partner through life that, through grace, would prove a ‘Mother in Israel.’ ” 1: Mr. John Shaw, a native of Moulin, Perthshire, was translated from Duirinish to Bracadale, in 1813. He died 16th January, 1823, in the 39th year of his age and the 12th of his ministry. 2: Dr. John MacDonald was translated from the Gaelic Chapel, Edinburgh, to Urquhart or Ferintosh 1st Sept., 1813; he died 16th April, 1849, in the 70th year of his age and 43rd of his ministry. His eldest son John, whose memoir has here written by Dr. W. K. Tweedie, became one of the Church's most devoted missionaries in India. Dr. MacDonald visited St. Kilda in 1822, 1825, 1827, and 1830. His journals of evangelistic work among the people of that isolated Island have been republished by his biographer, the late Dr. John Kennedy of Dingwall.) 3: Mr. Donald Mackenzie, on being licensed to preach the gospel, was appointed assistant to Mr. Mackenzie, minister of Comrie; he became minister of Ardeonaig in 1837. He acted as colleague to Mr. William Burns (afterwards of China) during an evangelistic tour throughout the highlands of Perthshire in August, 1840, which was the occasion, under God, of a remarkable religious revival among the people of those parts. His character was simple and his manners primitive, but he was a very impressive and powerful Gaelic preacher. He died 10th October, 1873 4: Dr. George Husband Baird was born at Bo'ness in 1761. His diligence as a, student attracted the notice of Principal Robertson, whom he succeeded in 1793 as Principal of the University of Edinburgh. In 1792 he was appointed minister of New Greyfriars, and professor of Oriental Languages in the University. He was, afterwards translated to the New North parish, and finally succeeded Dr. Blair in the High Church. His wife was the eldest daughter of Lord Provost Thomas Elder. He died 14th January, 1810, in the 53rd year of his ministry. 5: Mr. Alexander Gunn, A.M., a native of Caithness, was ordained at Orphir, Orkney, in 1803, and admitted minister of Watten 26th Sept., 1805. He was a preacher of eminent ability and evangelical power. His church became a centre of attraction for the people of Caithness, and his ministry was fruitful in spiritual blessing to many. He died 28th August, 1836, in the 63rd year of his age and 33rd of his ministry. His son Alexander (who has completed the 50th year of ,his ministry) succeeded him on the 6th April, 1837. 6: Mr. Thomas Jolly, A.M., a native of the Mearns, was ordained assistant and successor to Dr. Traill of Dunnet 10th August, 1784; he died 2nd 28thDecember, 1844, in the 91st year of his age and 61st of his ministry. He was not appreciated as a preacher, but as a dispenser of ordinary medicines to the sick of the parish he was much sought after. One of his sons, Thomas (who "came out" at the Disruption), was minister of Keiss, and afterwards of Bowden, while Peter was minister of Canisbay, and finally succeeded his father at Dunnet, the "living" of which has been in possession of the family for a period of 105 years. 7: Mr. William Mackenzie, who had been for five years minister of the Presbyterian Church, Monkwearmouth, succeeded his father as minister of Olrig in 1825; in the same year he married Miss Catherine S. Brodie, who long survived hi Through his exertions the Parish Church was built in 1840. In 1843 he became Free Church minister of the parish, and died in 1857, in the 67th year of his age and 38th of his ministry. 8: Mr. Donald Fraser, A.M., succeeded his eminent father, Dr. Alex. Fraser, as minister of Kirkhill on 28th Sept., 1802; be died 12th July, 1836, in the 54th year of his age and 34th of his ministry. In 1834 he published a small volume of sermons entitled, "The Method of Salvation." His son Alexander was, at the time of his father's death, minister of Cawdor, and succeeded him at Kirkhill 26th Jan., 1837. Mr. Alex. Fraser accompanied the Highland brigade, as chaplain, to the Crimea during the war. In connection with tins appointment he frequently risked his life by ministering to the wounded, sick, and dying, both in hospital and on the field of battle. He died in 1885. Download 1.26 Mb. Share with your friends:
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