Aci resource manual


Knots, Splices, and Whippings



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Knots, Splices, and Whippings



A "Bit" About Lines....
There are many materials used today to make line (ropes are on shore, line is afloat).. Line may be made from natural fibers like cotton and hemp (manila), and other synthetic fibers such as Dacron, Kevlar, and polypropylene. The most popular is nylon. It is strong, holds up well to the weather and stress, and coils nicely without too much kinking Nylon three strand is the preferred line for dock lines, since it stretches sufficiently to dampen the sharp shocks of wave action and wind against your cleats. Dacron doesn’t stretch as much, and is used for sailboat running rigging and other applications where you don't want stretch to interfere with your sets. The big advantage of polypropylene line is that it floats. Therefore, it is appropriate for ski lines or other applications where you want to be able to see the line on top of the water.
Line is constructed in two basic ways, although there are variations on the theme. The first is "3 strand" line. Three strand twisted line can be "laid" right or left, and should always be coiled with the lay of the line. If you hold a length of 3 strand right-hand laid twisted line at arm's length and eyeball it, you will see the wrap of the line twisting to the right.
The other construction type is braided line. Braided line can be single or double braided, and in both cases the line is braided around a central core. This type of line does not stretch to the degree that twisted line does, and is more difficult to splice. However, it goes through a pulley or block very well because of its rounded shape, and is stronger than its equivalent size twisted line.
Whichever lines you choose to use, make sure they are kept out of the sun when not in use, clean, unfrayed, and coiled neatly. Don't leave knots in a stowed line for long periods of time. Protect the line from chaffing, and replace the line at the first sign of wear.

The art of knot tying is known as "Marlinespike." Good sailors take pride in their ability to chose and tie knots. For practice, a section of rope six feet long with a diameter of 1/2" is a good size. Tie each knot several times to make a mental picture of the sequence. With practice you'll be able to tie a knot without thinking about it.


Whenever practical, most Atlantic Challenge groups tend to utilize “traditional” looking lines aboard the gigs instead of more modern “yacht braid” style lines.
The WEB is an excellent source for information and images about how to tie specific knots. Some sites include animated images to illustrate techniques.
Here are some helpful sites

Good web sites with images and information about tying knots.


http://www.mistral.co.uk/42brghtn/knots/ Animated knots for Scouts
http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/knotlink.htm Knots on the Web – Major resource location about knots
http://131.230.57.1/knots.htm Marlinspike “Know your Knots”
http://huizen.dds.nl/~erpprs/kne/kroot.htm The Roper’s Knot Page – Knots alpha sorted

Each crew member is expected to know the function and method of tying the following knots, whippings and splices.





Anchor hitch with seizing:

As the name suggests, this is an excellent method to secure a line to an anchor ring. A temporary seizing may be made by opening the lay of the line as shown.





Bowline, simple bowline,
This is the most useful of all knots. Once learned, it is easy to make and does not slip or jam. It may be used to secure a line around any object. Two lines may also be joined by placing a bowline on each one.


Bowline on a bight,

This is useful when you wish to have two similar sized loops as could be used in hoisting a crew member aloft on a halyard.


Double one end of the line as shown. After passing the looped end through the eye, pass it down and around the large loop.


Running Bowline

This may be used where you wish a sliding loop or constrictor.



Figure eight knot
This is frequently used as a stopper knot on a line to secure it from running freely through a block.



Fisherman's knot,

Just as the name suggests, used for joining two light lines together.






Halyard slip hitch
Used to make a temporary hitch for halyards in the gig. May also be secured in a similar fashion to a belaying pin.

Cleat Hitch
In order to secure the boat to a dock or secure a line to the boat you will probably use the cleat hitch.
1. Take the line to the ear of the cleat furthest from where the line comes from the boat (or load).
2. Take one wrap around the base of the cleat and then start a figure eight across the top of the opposite ear.
3. Finish with a half hitch turned under so that the line is coming away from the cleat the opposite direction from which it came in.


Sack knot,

This knot is used in the Jackstay Transfer. Make a large loop exactly as shown on the line where you wish to hold the sack. Now reach your hand through the loop from front to rear going over the centre cross. Pull the top of the sack back through the loop and secure by pulling on each end. As you do this dress the outside loops down along each side as shown.



Sheepshank,
Used to temporarily shorten a line.




Sheet Bend,

The sheet bend is familiarly used to tie two lines together so that, when the line is in tension, they will not come apart, and yet the knot, when the line is no longer under tension, will come apart easily. The knot is perhaps seen most frequently when tying a towline from a trailing boat to yours. Look at the photos to see how it is tied. To double the sheet bend, pass the working end around behind the eye again and follow the first pass, tucking the end under the first pass of the working end. A slippery sheet bend is made using a bight instead of the working end for the last pass.




Reef knot

Sometimes also called a square knot. If you are tying cord around a box then this knot works well. Remember “left over right” then “right over left” to avoid tying the Granny knot. If tying two lines together with this knot, they must be of the same size. This knot can jam making it difficult to release if very heavy loads are used.



Rolling Hitch
Take the tail of the rope and wrap it around the stanchion a couple of times, on the side of the standing part from which the strain will come (under the standing part, in this example.) Push the turns together and bring the tail of the rope up across the turns, keeping everything together and aligned. You're preparing to hitch the tail above the knot, on the side away from the expected strain. Put a half hitch around the upper side of the stanchion, in the same direction as the round turns and snug everything up tight. Use the rolling hitch any time you need to attach a line to a spar, another line, and when you need to know that the knot won't slip along the spar, line or stay. The rolling hitch is arguably one of the most useful knots after the bowline, clove hitch and sheet bend. The tying of this knot is designed to put a kink in the line to which it is being tied; so look for the kink under load to be sure it is tied correctly. To tie it successfully study the photos carefully - you should end up with a clove hitch with an extra turn on one side.

How not to tie it? Taking the last turn in the same direction as the standing part will result in a wrongly tied hitch, although it probably will hold for a short while.



Eye splice,
A method of putting a permanent eye in the end of a rope. The strands are unlaid, a loop of suitable size formed and the three strands are spliced or worked in and out of the rope, usually under and over. At least three "tucks" are normally taken.

Short splice
Used for joining two lines together. The resultant splice is thicker so do not use if the line will be passed through a block.

Back splice


Used to finish the end of a line. Do not use if the line must pass through a block.

There must be (at least) three tucks in a splice, untapered splices acceptable, but less points awarded. Tapered splices would be expected to have three tucks before reducing strands or form a taper, by removing 1/3 of the strand before making the tuck. Tucks must be made so that the cut strands are to the centre of the splice thus making it clean, tidy splice with the lay of the rope in place and no stray strands protruding.
Whippings:
The whipping must be tight with no overlapping turns. It must be correctly made for the type of whipping. The length of the whipping must be 1 to 1.5 times ropes diameter. Approximately 5 mm of the rope left after the whipping before trimming the rope end so that the whipping does not pull off.
S


imple or Common Whipping, - Method A


Simple or Common Whipping, - Method B
Lay the short end of the whipping twine along parallel with the rope and starting away from the rope’s end make at least half a dozen turns round the rope. Now loop the remainder as shown holding down the free end and whipping over it with the looped part. When you nearly reach the end of the rope pull on the free end until all of the loop is pulled through. Trim off the end.


Sailmaker’s Whipping


This is an excellent whipping since it cannot easily pull off. Unlay the rope a short way and slip a loop of whipping twine over the left hand strand (1) Make sure you keep a long loop hanging out as at (B). Now twist up the rope again and wind the longer end of the whipping twine neatly and tightly towards the end of the rope. When you get almost to the top, pass loop (A) over the strand (1) pulling it tight by the short end which will project from the bottom of the whipping. Bring the short end of the line up to strand (3) and knot it firmly with a reef knot to the longer part between the strands. Trim off short.



EVENTS MANUAL



International Contest of Seamanship

Atlantic Challenge

10th – 17th July 2004

Fishguard & Goodwick, United Kingdom

Members of the Events Committee

David Byatt (UK), Chairman.

Lee Scarborough (USA).

Vibeke Bischof (Denmark), Erik Holm (Denmark) vice Vibeke Bischof.

Joe Kelly (Ireland).

Charles Leten (Belgium).

Christian Viereck (Denmark).

RULES






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