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Section 8. Visual Signals
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Section 8.Visual SignalsSignals, General Information Leaders of dismounted units use arm-and-hand signals to control the movement of individuals, teams, and squads. These signals are used by infantry and also by combat support and combat service support elements organized for infantry missions. Larger formations require hand signals to ensure that the units are traveling in the correct formation as well as to keep unit discipline. There are also signals for prearranged drills that all infantry personnel should be familiar with. These are basic signals, and do not by any means encompass the entire spectrum of visual signals used by infantry units. Individual, team and Squad Signals When moving as part of a very small unit, especially where silence is essential to the survival of the team. These are the types of signals that are used by the point man when on patrol or by an OP when sitting in ambush. The figures below illustrate some of the individual, team and squad signals. 
Patrolling Many different types of units conduct patrolling. Infantry units patrol in order to conduct combat operations. Other units patrol for reconnaissance and security. Successful patrols require clearly understood communication signals among members of a patrol. In addition to the signals discussed in the previous section, units on patrol use commands to change the type of formation that they move in. The figures below illustrate the hand signals for particular formations used by units on patrol. 
Drills Drills are a rapid, reflexive response executed by a small unit. Drills can either be in response to an ambush, to initiate an ambush, or in the event of unexpected contact. Units must practice drills on a regular basis to ensure that they will be able to conduct them properly in combat. These signals are used to initiate drills. The hand signals shown here are just a few of the drill hand signals. 
Section 9.Marlinspike SeamanshipMarlinspike seamanship is the art of handling and working with all kinds of line or rope. It includes knotting, splicing, and fancy decorative work. Much practice is required to become proficient this skill. Knowledge of line handling terminology, and phrases as well as how to tie knots is a basic requirement of all sailors. Marlinspike Seamanship Terminology In basic marlinspike seamanship, you must know the name for the parts of a line and the basic turns employed. Lines are made of natural or synthetic fibers twisted into yarns. The yarns are grouped together in such a way to form strands. The strands finally are twisted, plaited or braided in various patterns, to form line. The bitter end is the running or free end of a line. It is the end of the line that is worked with. The standing part is the long unused or belayed end. The remaining part of the line including the end that is not worked. An overhand loop is made in a line by crossing the bitter end over the standing part. Crossing the bitter end under the standing part makes an underhand loop. A bight is a half a loop formed by turning the line back on itself. A turn is a single wind or bight of a rope laid around a belaying pin, post, bollard, or the like. A round turn is a complete turn or encircling of a line about an object, as opposed to a single turn. Knots, Bends and Hitches The term “knot” is often used as an all-inclusive term, but experienced seamen distinguish between knots, bends, and hitches. Knots are used to form eyes or secure a cord or line around an object such as a package. Generally they are intended to be permanent, so they are hard to untie. Hitches are used to bend a line to or around an object, such as a ring or stanchion (metal or wooden pole), another piece of line, or to form a loop or a noose in a line. Bends are used to secure lines together. Standard Knots There are 6 “knots” that are considered the standard knots. These are the basic knots that anyone working with lines should know. This is especially true for any crewmember of a small boat. The standard knots are the square knot, bowline, becket bend, clove hitch, overhand knot, and figure eight knot. Most also know the clove hitch. These knots are explained and illustrated in this text in order to give you some guidelines to go by in your own seamanship practice.
Square Knot Bowline. The bowline is one of the most useful knots. There are many variations of the knot. The chief use of the bowline is to form an eye, but it can also be used to secure a line to a padeye or other ring, around a stanchion or other object, or bent two lines together. The bowline neither slips nor jams, but it ties and unties easily. It is the best knot to use for bending a heaving line or messenger to a hawser, because it is quick to tie and easy to get off. The easiest and most seamanlike method of making a bowline is as follows: Form a bight and grasp a single part of the line with the left hand, and both parts of the line with the right hand, as shown in the figure. Turn the right hand down, pushing the bitter end through the bight, and then rotate the right hand palm up. With the left hand, form a small loop around the bitter end and grasp both parts of the line where the loop crosses the standing part. Pass the bitter end around behind the standing part and down through the small loop. Tighten the knot by pulling on the standing end and the bitter end. 
Bowline Becket Bends. The chief value of the becket bend is to bend together two lines of different sizes. If there is a great difference in sizes, or the strain on the line is to be great, a double becket bend is as good as a square knot, and much easier to untie after strain. To fashion a single becket bend, make a bight on one line and run the bitter end of the other line up through it. Pass the end around behind both parts of the bight and back under itself. The third step, to make a double becket, is made by taking another turn around the bight. 
Becket Bend Clove Hitch. The best all-around knot for bending to a ring, spar, or anything else that is round or nearly round is the clove hitch. A clove hitch will not jam, and will rarely pullout. A slack clove hitch can work itself out, though. For that reason it is a good idea to put a half hitch on the end of it. The clove hitch can be easily tied and it will hold as long as there is a strain on it. Once the strain is taken off, however, the hitch must be checked and tightened to prevent the bitter end from pulling out when the strain is reapplied. Again, a good reason to add a half hitch to the clove hitch. 
Clove Hitch Stopper Knots Overhand and figure eight knots are both stopper knots. They prevent the end of a line from feeding through a block or fairlead when heavy loads are involved. To tie an overhand knot, make an overhand loop in the line. Pass the bitter end up through the eye, and pull on the bitter end in one hand and the standing end in the other hand. A figure eight knot is an overhand knot with an extra twist before the bitter end is passed through the standing end.  
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