The National Museum of American History
The American History is home to many artifacts that, as you may guess, chronicle American History. It is aptly called “America’s attic” for this very reason. There, you can find Lincoln’s top hat… the same one worn the night he was assassinated. You can find the first-ladies inaugural gowns. There is also a pop culture exhibit that houses Kermit the Frog, Dorothy’s red slippers from the Wizard of Oz, Seinfeld’s puffy shirt, and Archie Bunker’s chair from “All in the Family.”
Most famously, however, the museum holds one of the oldest American flags existing today: the Star Spangled Banner. Often mistaken for the very first American flag or the flag sowed by Betsy Ross, it was actually the flag that inspired Francis Scott Key to write the national anthem to our country. Key was a lawyer here in Washington, DC when he was imprisoned by the British during the war of 1812. From his prison ship, he had a view of one of the few American victories in that war that took place just outside Baltimore. This flag was flying above Ft. McHenry and Key noticed that it was still flying after a major bombing by the British. So moved by the site “in dawn’s early light,” that he penned an inspirational poem to commemorate the event. The poem propelled him to national celebrity and soon after the poem was put to song, an old British drinking song, in fact. This became the National Anthem of the United States and it all started with the flag that is now in this museum.
Corner of 15th and Constitution – The Bullfinch Gatehouses
This small building was designed by Charles Bullfinch and served as a guardhouse on the grounds of the Capitol Building. In the 19th Century, one of the biggest security concerns was the livestock that grazed on the mall. Cows, sheep and pigs would migrate to Capitol Hill and distract/bother Congress.
The Washington Monument
The Washington Monument is 555 ½ feet tall – the tallest free-standing masonry structure in the world. The monument weighs approximately 82,000 tons. At the base of the monument, the stones are 15 feet thick and get smaller as they go up – the stones are only 18 inches thick at the top. Construction started in July of 1848 and was worked on until 1854 when donations ran out. Construction resumed in 1879, but the designer was unable to find the same quarry stone, which is why the bottom is a shade darker than the top. The monument was finally completed in 1884 and dedicated the next year. It’s said that men were invited to ride the steam-powered elevator that was used to haul materials during construction to the top. However, it was considered unsafe for women and children, so they had the privilege of climbing the 893 steps to the top! Thankfully, the monument has been renovated and everyone is invited to ride the elevator to the observation deck for a great view of the city.
When the cornerstone was laid over 20,000 people came out to witness the event. The cornerstone itself weighed 24,000 pounds and contained a zinc box that had plans for the monument, a bible, coins, newspapers of the day, and copies of the US Constitution and Declaration of Independence.
In 1880, it’s said that a cat named Steve Brodie survived a 160 foot fall from the unfinished Washington Monument. Apparently, the cat had climbed the scaffolding and fallen asleep. When the construction workers reported to work in the morning, they startled the cat, causing it to leap from the 16-story tower. Witnesses said the cat spread out its paws, flattened its body, and glided like a flying squirrel until it hit the ground on all fours. After tumbling a few times, it headed home. However, on its way, people say the cat was chased down and killed by a neighborhood dog, ending his incredible good luck.
In 1908, Washington Senators catcher Gabby Street became the first person to catch a baseball thrown from the top of the monument.
Tickets to ride the elevator to the top are limited and will sell out nearly everyday. It is suggested that you show up to the memorial by 8:30a to secure a spot on one of the day’s tours. Or, half of the available tickets for the days tours are available online at the National Park Service website. But, these can sell out weeks, if not months, in advance.
Jefferson Memorial
The Jefferson Memorial was dedicated in 1943 to our country’s third President and drafter of the Declaration of Independence. Franklin Roosevelt was the President responsible for the creation of the Memorial and he was also responsible for some of the controversy surrounding it. In 1912, the City of Tokyo, Japan, donated the U.S. Government the famous Cherry Trees that line the Tidal Basin near the memorial, possibly as a thanks for our part in ending the Russo-Japanese War. When they were constructing the memorial in the late 1930s, FDR ordered some of the trees to be removed so that he could keep an eye on construction. Well the idea of disturbing the trees was considered blasphemy at the time so some prominent ladies of Washington came down and chained themselves to trees. So, to solve this problem, Secretary of the Interior Harold Ickes came up with a simple scheme. As the story goes, he sent the ladies tea and coffee knowing they would eventually need to use the bathroom. When they could no longer ‘postpone the inevitable,’ workers would come in and knock the trees down. Just a few years later, in the days following the bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941, guards actually had to be called in to prevent angry citizens from cutting the trees down in anger.
The Memorial itself features a 19 foot tall, 10,000 lb., bronze statue of Jefferson standing a lot more straight than he was known. Many of his former colleagues noted that, though he was taller than George Washington, nobody would ever know it because of his poor posture. Thomas Jefferson is facing out over the Tidal Basin, not to the White House as many believe, but to the Treasury Department. It is said he is looking there to keep an eye on his greatest rival Alexander Hamilton, who’s statue is standing just outside the south entrance of the Treasury Department. The statue actually wasn’t installed until 1947 due to material shortages during World War II.
The Memorial was designed by John Russell Pope, a prominent architect in DC who designed the National Archives, the National Gallery of Art and the Daughters of the American Revolution Constitution Hall. He designed the memorial with the dome, as a way to mirror Jefferson's architectural preferences as exhibited by his home in Monticello, VA. It sits on a stretch of land dredged out of the Potomac River, which originally flooded closer to the Washington Monument.
Inside there are inscriptions taken from some of Jefferson’s most famous writings including the Declaration of Independence, the Bill Establishing Religious Freedom 1777, and some of his letters. Just below the ceiling there is one of his most famous quotes: “I have sworn upon the altar of God eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man.”
George Mason Memorial
George Mason is often called the ‘forgotten Founder’ because he was so instrumental in the fight for Independence and the founding of the United States yet most people don’t really know who he was. He wrote the Virginia Declaration of Rights which inspired the Declaration of Independence and the Bill of Rights. This memorial opened in 2002 and along with the gardens around it features a large statue of Mason reclining on a bench on the far end.
FDR Memorial
We are now outside the FDR Memorial, which was built here in 1997. Originally, the Memorial was just a single block of marble that sat and continues to sit at the northwest corner of the National Archives. While he was President, Roosevelt told Supreme Court Justice Felix Frankfurter that he wanted a memorial no larger than the size of his desk. Franklin Roosevelt was our countries longest serving president, being elected to four terms (now you can be only elected to two terms). He did suddenly, however, on April 12, 1945 of polio, 80 years almost to the day of Lincoln’s death. He did just as the United States was on the verge of winning World War II with Hitler cowering in a bunker somewhere in Germany.
The memorial that was built just over 50 years from his death is split into four rooms to represent his four terms in office. The first plaza has a famous and controversial statue of Roosevelt in his wheelchair. The statue that cost $1.5 million to make was a lightening rod for controversy as it was one of the first depictions of FDR in a wheelchair. FDR had spent much of his presidency hiding his paralysis often faking his ability to walk by leaning on the shoulder of a guard and using all his strength in his upper body to move his legs in a walking motion. This was extremely painful for him, but in a time of such turmoil (Great Depression, World War II), he thought the country would want a strong leader. When it came time to build this statue, many handicap American’s insisted he should be depicted this way, while others thought that he spent so much time hiding it, we should honor his wish. In the end, President Clinton put a stop to the fracas and commissioned the statue as you see it today.
Inside, there are also statues of his dog the first lady, depictions of the war, and the bread lines during the Great Depression. There is a small statue of Roosevelt’s famous dog Fala who the Secret Service dubbed “The Informer” because when FDR left let him out to do his business, it signified the nearby presence of the President. There are also five water areas in the memorial: a single large drop representing the economic crash leading to the Great Depression, multiple stair-step drops representing Tennessee Valley Authority dam building project, the chaotic falls representing World War II, a still pool marking Roosevelt’s death, and a wide array combining all the other waterfalls creating a retrospective of Roosevelt’s presidency.
The Waterfront: Air Force Memorial, Lee House, Arlington Cemetery, Memorial Bridge
We now stand at the edge of the Potomac River looking our into Arlington County Virginia. It’s the fourth largest river on the east coast and actually used to run over where we are standing, almost up to the Washington Monument. It would even flood to just south of the White House at some points. However, over time, it gradually receded and with the help of the construction of the Tidal Basin and other dredging projects, the Potomac became a lot more contained. This is why the area we are traveling on now is called Potomac Park, because about 100 years ago, it was under the Potomac River!
We can also see the Air Force Memorial which was dedicated in its location across the parking lot from the Pentagon in 2006. It features three stainless steel spires extending into the air up to 270 feet high. If you have a chance to go over there, it’s definitely worth a visit because it will give you a great view of the city and the Pentagon. There are also a number of statues including four 8 foot tall statues featuring an Air Force Honor Guard.
We can also see one of Arlington Cemetery's most well known sites, the Lee House. It was actually the site of some of the first action of the Civil War when Union Soldiers crossed the river on the night on May 23rd 1861 to seize the house and the land around it. The house belonged to Robert E. Lee (Confederate General) at the time and with it occupying such high territory, the Union army feared it could be a prime location for Confederate artillery. By 1864, the Union soldiers occupying the house began to bury their dead in the land surrounding it. By the end of the war there were 16,000 dead buried near the house including over 2,000 in Mary Lee’s rose garden. Once the war ended, Quartermaster General of the Army, Montgomery Meigs (whose son was killed in the Civil War), decided to continue the tradition of burial in Arlington. He seized the property permanently on behalf of the U.S. Government to be used as Arlington Cemetery.
Lastly, we see the Arlington Memorial Bridge. It is 2,163 feet long and leads from Arlington Cemetery to the Lincoln Memorial. It was placed here with some symbolism in mind. Because it connected Lee’s former house and Lincoln’s Memorial, it symbolized the reunification of North and South. Originally it was to be built as part of the McMillan Commission Plan of 1901 that was to restore the city to L’Enfant’s original plan. However, construction was delayed for twenty years. That was until President Hoover was stuck in a three hour long traffic jam on his way to dedicate the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Soon, money was appropriated and the bridge was finally finished in 1932.
John Ericsson Memorial
One of the most important men in Naval History is probably unknown to most, but he has a beautiful memorial here. John Ericsson was a Swedish engineer who invented the screw propeller and also designed the USS Monitor the single ship that gave the Union naval supremacy in the Civil War. (He also had some fantastic mutton-chops!) This memorial was dedicated in 1926 by President Calvin Coolidge and Swedish Crown Prince Gustaf Adolf. It stands almost 20 feet tall and its three sides represent ‘adventure,’ ‘labor,’ and ‘vision.’ Lastly, it was designed by famed architect James Earl Frasier who designed the Buffalo Nickel, as well as countless statues and memorials around DC.
Korean War Veterans Memorial
The Korean War Memorial was dedicated July 27, 1995 on the 42nd anniversary of the ceasefire that ended the war, or conflict. You will see 19 statues as you go around the memorial – the statues were designed by Frank Gaylord, a World War II veteran. Originally, the designers wanted to have 38 to represent the 38th parallel that the conflict broke out in in 1950. Because of lack of funding and space, the designers hope people will see the 19 statues reflect on the wall of faces, showing a total of 38 statues. As you walk ahead, you’ll see the 22 United Nation countries that were involved in the action. At the top of the memorial, you’ll see the casualties of the conflict over the period of just three years. The United States lost 54,246 soldiers and the United Nations lost 629,000 lives, close to the amount of the Vietnam War which lasted almost 17 years. You’ll also see the “wall of faces” – the faces are actual soldiers, nurses, and pilots whose pictures were submitted by their families.
Lincoln Memorial
The Lincoln Memorial was started on the 105th anniversary of Lincoln’s birth on February 12, 1914, designed by Henry Bacon. The memorial took 8 years to build and was completed in 1922 and dedicated over Memorial Weekend. There are 36 columns representing the number of states in the union when Lincoln was assassinated in 1865. The attic at the top of the memorial lists the 48 states that were in the union when the memorial was completed. Hawaii and Alaska were added later on a plaque at the base of the stairs. As you walk up the stairs, you are greeted by President Lincoln. Inside you’ll see the Gettysburg Address and his Second Inaugural Address on the north and south walls. The statue is 19x19 feet, designed by Daniel Chester French. If Lincoln were to actually stand up he’d be 28 feet tall. Originally, the statue was supposed to be only 10 feet tall, but was enlarged so that he didn’t look insignificant in such a large chamber.
When the Memorial was dedicated by President Harding in 1922, Lincoln’s son, Robert Todd, was in attendance. He was also at Lincoln’s bedside when he died after being shot by John Wilkes Booth in 1865. In 1881, he was actually appointed President James Garfield’s Secretary of War and was present when he was shot by Charles Guiteau that same year. Lastly, he was present when Leon Czolgoz shot President William McKinley in Buffalo in 1901
As you look at the color change of the steps of the memorial you’ll be able to find an etching of where Dr. Martin Luther King’s podium stood when he gave his infamous “I Have a Dream” speech in 1963. Finally, there also a plaque on the steps to honor Alaska and Hawaii as states because they were not included
Vietnam Veterans Memorial
This memorial was actually developed because of what happened when the veterans came home from war. As you may know, the war was not considered victorious for the US and soldiers did not receive a welcoming home parade or thank you as other veterans had. In 1979, a group of veterans, led by Jan Scruggs, teamed together with Texas billionaire Ross Perot to make a non-political statement about the war – they wanted the focus to be on the veterans. A competition was announced to find a designer for the memorial – after several rounds, Maya Lin’s quiet, yet powerful design was chosen. She was an undergraduate at Yale University. Legend is that one of Lin’s professors actually gave her a B- for her design and the professor had actually submitted his own design anonymously. (don’t like the wording – will figure it out)
As of 2007, there are 58,256 names on the wall, 1,200 of which are re listed as missing. The names are listed in chronological order of death or when they were considered missing between 1959 and 1975. When looking at the wall, you’ll find the first name (Dale R. Buis) in the center – the names then work towards the right, jump over to the left side of the wall and finally meet at the middle for 1979. You’ll notice a symbol beside each name; the diamond signifies the soldier was killed in action, the cross means missing in action and the cross with a diamond means missing and later discovered as deceased. At the entrance of the memorial, you’ll find the “Three Servicemen” statue, which was added in 1984. In 1993, the women’s memorial, designed by Glenna Goodacre, was added as a remembrance to the women who served in the war. There are eight women’s names on the wall.
World War II Memorial
This is one of DC’s newest memorials, dedicated on Memorial Day in 2004 by President George Bush. The memorial was designed by Friedrich St. Florian who studied at the Rhode Island School of Design. As you can see, there are 56 seventeen foot columns, which represent the states and territories that participated in the war. The columns are in order as the states entered the union. First, you’ll see Delaware on the left, then it jumps to Pennsylvania on the right and third you’ll see New Jersey on back on the left and so on. There are two wreaths on each column, one is oak, which represents the industrial strength of the nation at the time of the war and the other is wheat, showing the agricultural strength. The two large arched structures represent the two theatres the war was fought in, the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. In the back, you’ll see the “wall of stars” – there are 400 gold stars on the wall. Each star represents 100 deaths. As the soldiers left for service, their families would hang a blue star in the window. If the star was changed to gold, it meant the soldier had died while serving. As you walk around, you’ll see several quotes from Generals and Presidents, enjoy your time.
17th Street and Constitution Avenue NW
This whole area was actually a canal in the 1800s – the stone house across the street was built for the lockkeeper, who allowed barges to transfer between the two major canals of the time. It’s said that he lived here with 13 children!
The Ellipse
The area from Constitution Avenue through the Ellipse to Pennsylvania Avenue was known as Murder Bay for several years. Before the Civil War, freed slaves from Virginia and poor whites lived in this area in what reporters wrote as the worst area in the city. Whole families were crowded into small rooms that had little to no light and/or fresh air. Thankfully, Murder Bay was removed when construction of Federal Triangle began in the 1920s.
Second Division of the Army
This memorial represents the Second Division of the United States Army from World War I. The flaming gold sword signifies the US defending Paris during the First World War. In 1962, a new wing was added to the memorial – when the workers were putting the 8 inch thick slab of granite into place the workmen heard the sound of rustling newspapers and found two sleeping men inside, a major cause of excitement at the time.
The Organization of American States
The OAS was founded in 1890 as the International Union of American Republics and adopted its current name in 1948. Its purpose is to strengthen peace and security among the United States and Latin American countries, promote democracy, and promote economic, social, and cultural development.
Daughters of the American Revolution
This is the Daughters of the American Revolution Building headquarters. Constitution Hall is in the back – in 1939, Marian Anderson, a famous African American opera singer, was scheduled to perform here. At the last minute, the DAR cancelled her performance. A lot of people believed it was because she was African American. Eleanor Roosevelt was furious, so she canceled her membership and worked withher friends at the Department of the Interior to have Ms. Anderson perform on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial. This was the first performance/rally to ever take place there – obviously the same site Dr. Martin Luther King gave his “I Have a Dream” speech in 1963.
American Red Cross
Clara Barton and several friends founded the American Red Cross in Washington, DC on May 21, 1881. She learned about the Swiss-inspired movement and immediately started campaigning for the organization to care for and protect people injured in war. The organization boomed during the First World War and has been called upon ever since. This building serves as the headquarters for the Red Cross – it has a food court and small museum dedicated to Clara Barton for all of her hard work.
The Old Executive Office Building
The Old Executive Office Building houses most of the White House staff but was originally built for the State, War, and Navy Departments. Alfred Mullett was the supervising architect – he chose a 2nd French Empire design, which was very unique for the time period. The building took 17 years to complete (1871 to 1888) – Mr. Mullett actually resigned before the building was completed because of the flak he received from the public and the Secretary of the Treasury, Benjamin Bristow. At first, people were unhappy with his design because they said the building was ornate and represented big government. Mr. Mullett was also never paid his entire fee for designing the building because of a technicality between two courts. Now, the OEOB houses the Vice President and First Lady’s offices. In fact, Lyndon B. Johnson was the first Vice President to have an office here in 1960.
In front of the building you can see a memorial to the First Division of the US Army. Their nickname was “The Big Red One” – red flowers are planted in the shape of a number one every spring.
Renwick Gallery
The Renwick Gallery is part of the Smithsonian and features arts and crafts. The gallery was built in 1859 to house the American and European art collection of Washington banker and philanthropist William Corcoran. The building was completed in 1861, the city’s first art museum, and was named after James Renwick, Jr. who also designed the Smithsonian Castle.
Blair House
The Blair House was built in 1824 and was home to Francis Preston Blair, friend to many presidents and publisher of the Globe Magazine. The government purchased the building in 1942 and it has been used a guest house for heads of state visiting DC. It’s said that the Roosevelt administration purchased the house because first lady Eleanor Roosevelt was sick of visitors staying in the White House. Early one morning, Mrs. Roosevelt was walking through the living quarters when she encountered Winston Churchill pacing the hallway with a cigar in one hand and a glass of brandy in the other. She asked, “Winston, where are you going at this time of the morning?” He replied, “To see Franklin.” Mrs. Roosevelt quickly told him to return to his room – she was already agitated he had kept the president up half the night!
This is also where President Truman’s assassination attempt took place. The Trumans were living here because of renovations at the White House. Two Puerto Rican nationalists unsuccessfully tried to shoot their way through the front door.
Today’s Blair House is actually a combination of five row houses and is larger than the White House! It has 119 rooms with a total area of 70,000 square feet. Its goal is to be comfortable, discreet, and secure and has 14 guest rooms, 35 bathrooms, 4 dining rooms, and even a florist and hair salon.
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