Chapter 1 The History of Oceanography
The Early Times
The Middle Ages
Voyages of Discovery
The Beginnings of Earth Science
The Importance of Charts and Navigational Information
Boxed Reading: Marine Archaeology
Ocean Science Begins
The Challenger Expedition
Oceanography as Science
Oceanography in the Twentieth Century
Field Notes box: Planning and Executing a Successful Oceanographic Expedition
1.10 The Recent Past, the Present, and the Future of Oceanography
Summary
Chapter 2 The Water Planet
2.1 Beginnings
Origin of the Universe
Origin of Our Solar System
Extraterrestrial Oceans
Early Planet Earth
Boxed Reading: Origin of the Oceans
2.2 Age and Time
Age of Earth
Geologic Time
Natural Time Periods
2.3 Shape of Earth
2.4 Location Systems
Latitude and Longitude
Chart Projections
Measuring Latitude
Longitude and Time
2.5 Modern Navigational Techniques
2.6 Earth: The Water Planet
Water on Earth’s Surface
Hydrologic Cycle
Reservoirs and Residence Time
Distribution of Land and Water
Hypsographic Curve
Summary
Chapter 3 Plate Tectonics
3.1 Interior of Earth
Investigating Earth’s Structure
Internal Layers
3.2 Lithosphere and Asthenosphere
The Layers
Isostasy
3.3 Movement of Continents
History of a Theory: Continental Drift
Evidence for a New Theory: Seafloor Spreading
Evidence for Crustal Motion
Polar Wandering Curves
3.4 Plate Tectonics
Plates and Their Boundaries
Divergent Boundaries
Transform Boundaries
Convergent Boundaries
Continental Margins
3.5 Motion of the Plates
Mechanisms of Motion
Field Notes box: Exploring the Oceans on Earth and Elsewhere
Rates of Motion
Hot Spots
3.6 History of the Continents
The Breakup of Pangaea
Before Pangaea
Terranes
3.7 Research Projects and Plans
Project FAMOUS
Seafloor Spreading and Hydrothermal Vents
Boxed Reading: Recovery of Black Smokers
Hydrothermal Vent Communities
The Ocean Drilling Program
Summary
Chapter 4 The Sea Floor and Its Sediments
4.1 Measuring the Depths
Boxed Reading: Bathymetrics
4.2 Bathymetry of the Sea Floor
Continental Margin
Ocean Basin Floor
Field Notes box: Giant Hawaiian Landslides
Ridges, Rises, and Trenches
4.3 Sediments
Particle Size
Location
Rates of Deposit
Source and Chemistry
Patterns of Deposit on the Sea Floor
Formation of Rock
Sampling Methods
Sediments as Historical Records
4.4 Seabed Resources
Sand and Gravel
Phosphorite
Sulfur
Coal
Oil and Gas
Gas Hydrates
Manganese Nodules
Sulfide Mineral Deposits
Laws and Treaties
Summary
Chapter 5 The Physical Properties of Water
5.1 The Water Molecule
5.2 Temperature and Heat
5.3 Changes of State
5.4 Heat Capacity
5.5 Cohesion, Surface Tension, and Viscosity
5.6 Density
The Effect of Pressure
The Effect of Temperature
The Effect of Salt
5.7 Dissolving Ability
5.8 Transmission of Energy
Heat
Light
Sound
Boxed Reading: Acoustic Thermometry of Ocean Climate
5.9 Ice and Fog
Sea Ice
Icebergs
Fog
Boxed Reading: Green Icebergs
Summary
Chapter 6 The Chemistry of Seawater
6.1 The pH of Seawater
6.2 Salts
Units of Concentration
Ocean Salinities
Dissolved Salts
Sources of Salt
Regulating the Salt Balance
Residence Time
Constant Proportion
Determining Salinity
6.3 Gases
Distribution with Depth
The Carbon Dioxide Cycle
The Oxygen Balance
Measuring the Gases
6.4 Other Substances
Nutrients
Organics
Boxed Reading: Messages in Polar Ice
6.5 Practical Considerations: Salt and Water
Chemical Resources
Desalination
Summary
Chapter 7 The Structure and Motion of the Atmosphere
7.1 Heating and Cooling Earth’s Surface
Distribution of Solar Radiation
Heat Budget
Annual Cycles of Solar Radiation
Heat Capacity
7.2 The Atmosphere
Structure of the Atmosphere
Composition of Air
Atmospheric Pressure
7.3 Greenhouse Gases
Carbon Dioxide and Greenhouse Effect
The Ozone Problem
7.4 The Role of Sulfur Compounds
7.5 The Atmosphere in Motion
Winds on a Nonrotating Earth
The Effects of Rotation
Boxed Reading: Ship Emissions
Wind Bands
7.6 Modifying the Wind Bands
Seasonal Changes
Boxed Reading: Clouds and Climate
The Monsoon Effect
The Topographic Effect
Jet Streams
7.7 Hurricanes
7.8 El Niño–Southern Oscillation
7.9 Practical Considerations: Storm Tides and Storm Surges
Summary
Chapter 8 Circulation and Ocean Structure
8.1 Density Structure
Surface Processes
Changes with Depth
Density-Driven Circulation
8.2 Upwelling and Downwelling
8.3 The Layered Oceans
The Atlantic Ocean
The Pacific Ocean
The Indian Ocean
Comparing the Major Oceans
The Arctic Ocean
Boxed Reading: Arctic Ocean Studies
Bordering Seas
Internal Mixing
8.4 Measurement Techniques
8.5 Practical Considerations: Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion
Boxed Reading: Ocean Gliders
Summary
Chapter 9 The Surface Currents
9.1 Surface Currents
The Ekman Spiral and Ekman Transport
Ocean Gyres
Geostrophic Flow
9.2 Wind-Driven Ocean Currents
Pacific Ocean Currents
Atlantic Ocean Currents
Indian Ocean Currents
Arctic Ocean Currents
9.3 Current Flow
Current Speed
Western Intensification
9.4 Eddies
9.5 Convergence and Divergence
Langmuir Cells
Permanent Zones
Boxed Reading: Ocean Drifters
Seasonal Zones
9.6 Changing Circulation Patterns
Global Currents
North Pacific Oscillations
North Atlantic Oscillations
9.7 Measuring the Currents
9.8 Practical Considerations: Energy from the Currents
Summary
Chapter 10 The Waves
10.1 How a Wave Begins
10.2 Anatomy of a Wave
10.3 Wave Motion
10.4 Wave Speed
10.5 Deep-Water Waves
Storm Centers
Dispersion
Group Speed
Wave Interaction
10.6 Wave Height
Episodic Waves
Wave Energy
Wave Steepness
Universal Sea State Code
10.7 Shallow-Water Waves
Refraction
Reflection
Diffraction
Navigation from Wave Direction
10.8 The Surf Zone
Breakers
Water Transport
Energy Release
10.9 Tsunami
Boxed Reading: Tsunami Warning Systems
10.10 Internal Waves
10.11 Standing Waves
10.12 Practical Considerations: Energy from Waves
Summary
Going to Sea
Chapter 11 The Tides
11.1 Tide Patterns
11.2 Tide Levels
11.3 Tidal Currents
11.4 Equilibrium Tidal Theory
The Moon Tide
The Tidal Day
The Tide Wave
The Sun Tide
Spring Tides and Neap Tides
Declinational Tides
Elliptical Orbits
11.5 Dynamic Tidal Analysis
The Tide Wave
Progressive Wave Tides
Standing Wave Tides
Tide Waves in Narrow Basins
11.6 Tidal Bores
11.7 Predicting Tides and Tidal Currents
Tide Tables
Boxed Reading: Measuring Tides from Space
Tidal Current Tables
11.8 Practical Considerations: Energy from Tides
Summary
Chapter 12 Coasts, Beaches, and Estuaries
12.1 Major Zones
12.2 Types of Coasts
Primary Coasts
Secondary Coasts
12.3 Anatomy of a Beach
12.4 Beach Dynamics
Natural Processes
Coastal Circulation
12.5 Beach Types
12.6 Modifying Beaches
Coastal Structures
Boxed Reading: National Marine Sanctuaries
The Santa Barbara Story
The History of Ediz Hook
12.7 Estuaries
Types of Estuaries
Circulation of Patterns
Temperate-Zone Estuaries
12.8 High Evaporation Rates
Boxed Reading: Rising Sea Level
12.9 Flushing Time
12.10 Practical Considerations: Case Histories
The Development of San Francisco Bay
The Situation in Chesapeake Bay
Summary
Chapter 13 Environmental Issues and Concerns
13.1 Water and Sediment Quality
Solid Waste Dumping
Sewage Effluent
Toxicants
13.2 Gulf of Mexico Dead Zone
13.3 Plastic Trash
13.4 Ocean Waste Management Proposals
13.5 Oil Spills
13.6 Marine Wetlands
Boxed Reading: Spartina: Valuable and Productive or Invasive and Destructive?
13.7 Biological Invaders
Field Notes box: Ecological Nowcasting of Sea Nettles in Chesapeake Bay
13.8 Overfishing and Incidental Catch
13.9 Afterthoughts
Summary
Chapter 14 The Living Ocean
14.1 Ocean Biology
14.2 Groups of Organisms
14.3 Environmental Zones
14.4 Facts of Ocean Life
Buoyancy, Flotation, and Viscosity
Salinity and Osmosis
Temperature
Pressure
Gases
Nutrients
Light and Color
Circulation Patterns
14.5 Bottom Environments
14.6 Close Associations
14.7 Barriers and Boundaries
14.8 Practical Considerations: Modification and Mitigation
Boxed Reading: Biodiversity in the Oceans
Summary
Chapter 15 Production and Life
15.1 Primary Production
Gross and Net
Standing Crop
15.2 Controls on Primary Production
Light
Nutrients
Nutrient Cycles
15.3 Global Primary Production
15.4 Measuring Primary Production
Direct Methods
Remote Methods
15.5 Total Production
Food Chains and Food Webs
Trophic Pyramids
Other Photosynthetic Systems
Primary Production and Chemosynthesis
15.6 Practical Considerations: Human Concerns
Boxed Reading: CalCOFI – Fifty Years of Coastal Ocean Data
Summary
Chapter 16 The Plankton: Drifters of the Open Ocean
16.1 Kinds of Plankton
Phytoplankton
Zooplankton
16.2 Bacteria and Archaea
The Microbial Loop
16.3 Viruses
16.4 Classification Summary of the Plankton
16.5 Sampling the Plankton
Boxed Reading: Discovery of the Role of Picoplankton
16.6 Practical Considerations: Marine Toxins
Harmful Algal Blooms
Pfiesteria-Like Dinoflagellates
Ciguatera Poisoning
Toxic Diatom Blooms
Cholera
Boxed Reading: Extremophiles
Summary
Chapter 17 The Nekton: Free Swimmers of the Sea
17.1 Mammals
Whales and Whaling
Dolphins and Porpoises
Seals and Sea Lions
Boxed Reading: Whale Falls
Sea Otters
Walrus
Sea Cows
Polar Bears
Marine Mammal Protection Act
Communication
17.2 Marine Birds
17.3 Marine Reptiles
Sea Snakes
Sea Turtles
17.4 Squid
17.5 Fish
Sharks and Rays
Commercial Species of Bony Fish
Deep-Sea Species of Bony Fish
17.6 Classification Summary of the Nekton
17.7 Practical Considerations: Commercial Fisheries
Anchovies
Tuna
Salmon
Atlantic Cod
Sharks
Fish Farming
Field Notes box: Biofouling
Summary
Chapter 18 The Benthos: Dwellers of the Sea Floor
18.1 Algae and Plants
General Characteristics of Benthic Algae
Kinds of Seaweeds
Other Marine Plant Communities
18.2 Animals
Animals of the Rocky Shore
Tide Pools
Animals of the Soft Substrates
Animals of the Deep-Sea Floor
Fouling and Boring Organisms
18.3 Classification Summary of the Benthos
18.4 High-Energy Environments
18.5 Coral Reefs
Tropical Corals
Tropical Coral Reefs
Coral Bleaching
Predation and Disease
Human Activities
Deep-Water Corals
18.6 Deep-Ocean Chemosynthetic Communities
Hot Vents
Cold Seeps
Boxed Reading: Deep-Sea Ice Worms
18.7 Sampling the Benthos
18.8 Practical Considerations: Harvesting the Benthos
The Animals
The Algae
Biomedical Products
Boxed Reading: Genetic Manipulation of Fish and Shellfish
Summary
Appendix A Scientific (or Exponential) Notation
Appendix B SI Units
Appendix C Equations and Quantitative Relationships
Glossary
Index