VI. Evia and the Northern Sporades

PLATANIA

@ 39°08'.4N 23°16'.5E

Xerxes. This was a delaying tactic by the Athenians rather than an attempt to hold the invaders. The tactic had an unforeseen success as soon afterwards a NE gale wrecked many of the Persian craft. Herodotus relates the story:

'The Persian fleet...made the Magnesian coast between Casthanea and Cape Sepias and on its arrival the leading ships made fast to the land, while the remainder, as there was not much room on the short stretch of beach, came to anchor and lay off-shore in lines, eight deep. In this position they remained during the night; but at dawn next day the weather, which was clear and calm, suddenly changed, and the fleet was caught in a heavy blow from the east - a 'Hellespontian' as the people there call it -which raised a confused sea like a pot on the boil. Those who realised in time that the blow was coming, and all who happened to be lying in a convenient position, managed to beach their vessels and to get them clear of the water before they were damaged, and thus saved their own lives as well; but the ships which were caught well off-shore were all lost...'

Trans. Aubrey de Selincourt (quoted in Ernie Bradford

The Greek Islands)

The modern yachtsman can only wonder why the Persian fleet did not choose the nearby natural harbour of Skiathos.

ÖRMOS ANDRIAMI (Khondhri Ammos)

39°07'.0N 23°13'.0E

A large bay on the N side of the channel. Anchor in

a cove on the N side in 5--8m on mud, good holding.

Reasonable shelter from the meltemi although some

swell works around into the cove. Open S. No

facilities.

PLATANIA

An open bay 2.5 miles E of Andriami affording some shelter from the meltemi. The village of Platania at the bottom of a valley is conspicuous from seaward. A mole has been built out near the old short jetty at the E end of the bay. The end of the mole is lit Fl.G.3s3M. The mole much improves the shelter here if you can get on it or behind it. Go alongside or stern or bows-to if there is room. The hydrofoil berths at the outer end of the mole. The bay shelves gently to the shore with a mud and sand bottom so you can anchor off behind the mole near the permanent moorings if there is no space on it. Reasonable shelter from the meltemi.

Water tap near the bridge on the waterfront. Provisions and tavernas ashore. The bay is an attractive place with a wooded valley rising up from the bay with numerous plane trees dotted about -hence the name Platania.

PEFKI

39°00'.5N 23°12'.4E

A new fishing harbour on the N coast of Evia approximately 4 miles E of Âk Kefala. The mole head is lit: Fl.R.2s3M.

The harbour is full of fishing boats but it may be possible to find a berth. Alternatively anchor off clear of the permanent moorings. Good shelter from the meltemi under the mole.

PEFKI

@ 39°00.5N 23°12'.4E

Water tap ashore. Provisions and tavernas. Hydrofoil service. The area is a popular holiday destination for Greeks, with long sandy beaches along the adjacent coast.

PONDIKONISI

Pondokonisi light Fl(2)WR.15sl5/12M 39°02'.9N 23°20'.2E

Lies on the S side of Stenon Trikeri NE of Ak Artemision on Evia. A cove on the SW corner of the island gives good shelter from the meltemi. On the N side of the island is a landing leading up to the lighthouse.

338

^{Northern Sporades}

The Sporades ('Sporades' means scattered or sown) are divided into two groups: the northern Sporades described here and the southern or eastern Sporades lying along the coast of Asia Minor. The latter group is today commonly known as the Dodecanese (the islands stretching from Kârpathos to Pâtmos) and the eastern Sporades (those islands north of Pâtmos to Limnos). The eastern Sporades are less visited than the northern Sporades and consequently the name 'the Sporades' invariably refers to the northern group described here.

The main group of islands curves in a sickle shape from the southern corner of the Trikeri peninsula northwards to the tiny sea-washed rock of Psathoüra. Forty miles north of here Mt Athos rises out of the sea at the bottom of the Khalkidhiki. Skiros lies to the SE of the main group and although it belongs geographically and politically to these islands, it has tended to develop independently.

Lying out of the mainstream of history, the islands have few archaeological remains. Recently indications of Minoan occupation have been unearthed at Stafilos on Sköpelos. The islands were subject-allies of Athens and later of Macedonia and Rome. Skiros has always been of more importance than the other islands, situated as it is on the trade route between Athens and Asia Minor.

During the Middle Ages the islands were easy prey for pirates. The inhabitants moved inland to fortified villages and not until the late 19th century did they begin to return to coastal villages.

Consequently, most of the towns around the coast are of comparatively recent origin.

The popular architecture of the group is distinctive - the houses are washed in white, blue and pink and have gabled roofs with grey or red slates. Today the beautiful scenery and fine sandy beaches have been attracting growing numbers of tourists to the more accessible islands of the group. Note The islands are not blessed with very much in the way of natural water supplies, nor when it is available is it always potable. The rapidly expanding tourism infrastructure ashore has cut supplies even further. Consequently water is in short supply and in harbours where it is available it is charged out at a high, not to say extortionate, rate.

Weather patterns in the northern Sporades

The meltemi does not blow as strongly down through the northern Sporades as it does further S. It blows from the NNE, but the direction is much altered by the islands and channels between them. The islands stop most of the sea on the S side except around Pelagos which gets the whole fetch of the sea from northern Greece. The combination of the meltemi and the flat seas on the lee side of the islands makes for some exhilarating sailing and not surprisingly the area is popular for flotilla holidays.

NORTHERN SPORADES

339

Nısos Skiathos

The nearest of the islands to the mainland coast. With good ferry services and an airport it attracts more visitors than the other islands. From 1538 until 1830 the inhabitants moved to an almost inaccessible rocky spur on the northern end of the island. The Kâstro, as it was called, was connected to the island by a drawbridge which could be raised in times of siege. Today most of the population lives in Skiathos town.

STENON SKİATHOU (Skiathos Channel)

This narrow channel separates Skiathos from the mainland. Ifalos Levtheris ÇLephtari Rock) lies in the channel 1.75 miles E of Ak Arâpis. It is marked by a light structure (conspic): char. Fl(2)8s8M. A variable current sets either N or S through the channel at 0.5-1.5 knots.

STENON SKİATHOU

@ 14 Mid-channel Stenon Skiathou 39°09'.9N 23°21'.8E

KOUKOUNARIES

Approach

A small harbour in the NE corner of Ormos Koukounaries on the SW corner of Skiathos. The large Skiathos Palace Hotel at the E end of the bay is conspicuous and the small harbour is immediately below it.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to either mole. The tiny harbour is usually crowded and you will probably have to anchor off.

Shelter Excellent shelter. A number of boats are wintered afloat here.

Anchorage Anchor off the beach clear of the ski channel in 4--6m on sand, good holding. Good shelter from the meltemi anchored off here.

Facilities

Several tavernas nearby.

ÖRMOS KOUKOUNARIES

@ 39°O8'.3N 23°24'.2E

General

Koukounaries is often said to be the best beach in the Aegean. It is a fine beach with the pines providing a wonderful aspect, but is not the best beach in the region in my opinion (see Khalkidhiki section).

ÖRMOS PLATANIA

A large bay to the E of Koukounaries with several hotels on the beach. Anchor off the beach in 4-8m on sand, good holding. Good shelter although there are strong gusts off the land with the meltemi. Tavernas ashore.



ÖRMOS PLATANIA

@ 39°07'.8N 23°26'.2E

SKIATHOS

BA 1571 Imray-Tetra G25

Approach

Conspicuous The cluster of islands surrounding Skiathos harbour is easily identified. The lighthouse on Nisis Repi is conspicuous from the S and E. The buildings of Skiathos around the harbour, particularly a large building on the headland forming the E side of the old harbour and a church with a conspicuous clock tower on high ground to the N of the old harbour, are conspicuous. By night Use the lights on Nisis Prassou F1.6s6M, Nisis Repi Fl(2)WR.10sl2/8M (red sector covers

340

APPROACHES TO SKİATHOS

@ 39°09'.7N 23°29'.7E (N. Dhaskalo)

261°-313°), and Dhaskalonisi in the immediate approaches F1.3s5M. The end of the mole is lit: Fl.R.l.5s3M.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the quay N of the ferry berths or on the new pontoon off the quay. The harbour is often full with local and charter boats. The bottom is mud and weed, good holding. The old harbour on the S side is reserved for excursion boats though there may be a few berths here for small yachts.

Shelter Good shelter from the meltemi in the new E harbour, but the wind does blow beam on if you are on the N-S quay, so make sure your anchor is well in. With southerlies a swell rolls in and unless you are tucked right under the mole, it is very uncomfortable and may become untenable. Authorities Port police and customs.

Anchorage It is also possible to anchor at the head of the bay and a number of yachts are wintered afloat here. Keep well clear of the area where anchoring is prohibited under the flight path of the airport. The bottom is mud, sand and weed - good holding.

Facilities

Water On the quay, though you need to find the

'waterman' to unlock the tap. Showers.

Fuel Can be delivered to the harbour by mini-tanker

- contact the port police or Tel. 42921.

Repairs Some mechanical repairs. Yachts are hauled

out at the yard at the head of the bay. Chandlers.

Hardware shops.

Provisions Good shopping for all provisions. Ice can

be ordered.

Eating out Good tavernas in the town.

Other PO. OTE. Banks. Greek gas and Camping

Gaz. Hire cars, motorbikes and bicycles. Ferries and

hydrofoils to Volos, Âyios Konstandinos and

Skopelos. European charter flights. Internal flights

to Athens and Thessaloniki.

General

The small town of Skiathos has grown in recent years to become a sort of junior league Mikonos with discos, bars and good restaurants livening up the night. In the summer the town is packed with tourists attracted to the sandy beaches, yet it remains a pleasant easy-going town and most of the locals are still friendly enough. But a quiet place it is

341

SKIATHOS

@ 39°09'.8N 23°29'.6E

not and those seeking less noise and fewer people are advised to head east.

Nfsos Sköpelos

Sköpelos (ancient Peparethos), like Skiathos, is densely wooded in pine over its slopes. It is also very fertile - vines, olives, almonds, pears, citrus fruit and plums, for which the island is famous, are grown. It is more intensively cultivated than Skiathos and the inhabitants (perhaps because they are farmers and not seafarers risking their lives at sea) are said to be more conservative.

The capital is Sköpelos (chora-Skopelou) on the east side of the island. The island has long been considered a remote place - dissident Byzantines were exiled here far from the pleasures of Constantinople. In 1538 Barbarossa slaughtered the entire population of the island so presumably all the present inhabitants are immigrants who arrived in the 16th century. The island still has a remote feel to it in places and in the winter you can feel positively isolated on it. Today the islanders are an industrious and prosperous lot who seem quite happy to see tourists coming to their island, yet make few concessions to them outside Sköpelos and Glössa.

Skiathos harbour looking W with Skiathos town top middle

Peter KleinothlMareTeam

342

LOUTRÂKI (Glössa) Approach

Conspicuous The village on the hill above the harbour is easily seen from a considerable distance off. A large brown church in the middle of the village is conspicuous. Closer in the small settlement behind the harbour will be seen. By night The entrance is lit: Fl.G.3s3M/Fl.R.3s5M.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the new pontoon in the NE

corner. The bottom is sand and weed - good

holding.

Shelter Good shelter from the meltemi. Strong

southerlies may be bothersome.

Facilities

Good shopping for provisions. Good tavernas on the waterfront. Bus to Sköpelos. Ferry to Skiathos.

General

Loutrâki has grown into a modest tourist resort and the once sleepy village is now invaded every day by visitors from Skiathos who come for its splendid beaches to the SE of the harbour. It is an arduous walk in the hot sun to the village of Glössa above, but worth it for the magnificent views over to Skiathos and Evia.

LOUTRÂKI

@ 39°09'.8N 23°37'.0E

NISOI SKÖPELOS AND ALONNISOS

343

Loutrâki looking SW across the yacht pontoon Hans van Rijn

NEA KLIMA

39°08'.4N 23°38'.5E

A small harbour with a narrow entrance channel into a basin. The entrance is lit Fl.G.3s5M/ Fl.R.3s3M. Care is needed in the channel and inside the harbour as depths are irregular. Depths in the channel are mostly 2m and in the basin l.5-2m. The harbour is mostly crowded with local boats and you would be lucky to find a berth.

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