VI. Evia and the Northern Sporades

The large bay is very deep even close to the beach. A swimming area cordoned off by small buoys blocks off the NE side of the bay. Anchor in the E side outside the buoyed area. The inlet running S from the bay has better shelter. Anchor in the S corner in 4-8m and take a line ashore. There can be strong gusts from the N and NW into the bay so make sure your anchor is well in. The bay is popular in the summer and often packed with yachts and other craft.

The secluded inlet on the S features in Michael Carroll's Gates of the Wind. Anyone who has read this book will immediately recognise his house on the E side of the inlet. Those who have not read it should obtain a copy (it is published in paperback by a Greek publisher and available locally) for the descriptions of the islands and particularly of Sköpelos and Panormos just before the outside world learnt of these enchanted places.

Taverna/bars ashore. The pine-clad inlet is a popular spot with Skopelites in the summer.

ÖRMOS STAFILOS (Staphylos)

An open bay on the S coast W of a craggy headland joined by a low isthmus to Sköpelos. Care needs to be taken of the reef immediately S of an islet on the W side of the bay although it is not in the obvious approach to the bay.

The large bay offers good protection from the meltemi although a swell often curves around into the bay. Anchor in 3--4m off the beach in the NE corner. Open to the S.

A few summer villas have been built around the slopes and the beach is popular in the summer. Taverna ashore.

The bay is named after a Minoan prince (Staphylos), and recently archaeologists discovered evidence of a Cretan settlement, including a gold-plated sword handle and a gold diadem. This makes Stafilos the most northerly Minoan settlement so far unearthed.



Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the N quay. A large mooring chain lying 30m out from the quay and parallel to it has been reported. Care is needed not to snag it with your anchor. The bottom is mud - excellent holding.

Shelter With a strong meltemi it can get very

uncomfortable in the harbour. Ease off the warps

and keep the yacht some distance off the quay. The

wash from the numerous ferries and hydrofoils using

the harbour is also bothersome. Otherwise shelter is

good.

Authorities Port police and customs.

Facilities

Water Tap in the SE corner or a mini-tanker can

deliver.

Fuel Can be delivered by mini-tanker from the

FINA agent.

Repairs Limited mechanical repairs. Hardware

shops.

Provisions Good shopping for all provisions. Ice

available.

Eating out Good tavernas on the waterfront and in

the town.

Other PO. OTE. Bank. Hire motorbikes and

bicycles. Bus to Glössa. Ferries and hydrofoils to

Patitiri and Volos.

General

The houses and churches (there are said to be 120) of the town are piled one upon another around a rock amphitheatre above the harbour. The houses are jammed together along narrow curving alleys that restrict access to pedestrians, donkeys and the occasional suicidal motorcyclist. An altogether delightful and relaxing place that has altered little (apart from acquiring some more tavernas and bars)

ÖRMOS STAFILOS

@ 39°04'.8N 23°44'.-8E

LIMİN SKOPELOU (SKÖPELOS)

BA 1571

Approach

Conspicuous From the E the town of Sköpelos will not be seen until you enter Ormos Skopelou. Once you are in the bay the cluster of houses above the harbour stand out in dazzling white. The harbour moles are easily identified.

By night Use the light on Nisis Mikrö F1.4s6M and the lights at the entrance Fl.G.2s6M and Fl.R (on the light buoy off the works or on the new E breakwater).

Dangers With strong NE winds (including a prolonged meltemi) a steep and dangerous sea builds up over the shoal water in the approaches to the harbour. In these conditions it is difficult and sometimes dangerous to enter or leave the harbour. In this weather the ferry goes to Agnonda on the W coast of Sköpelos.

Note At the time of writing harbour works are in progress so care is needed in the final approach and in the entrance.

APPROACHES TO SKÖPELOS

@ 39°08'.0N 23°44'.5E

SKÖPELOS

@ 39°07'.5N 23°44'.1E

despite the growing numbers of tourists discovering it.

Nisos Alonnisos

(Khelidrotni)

In ancient times called Ilkos, this hilly wooded island relies on the donkey and the caique as much as on motor vehicles. The old capital of Alonnisos, on a hill in the south of the island, was largely deserted after a severe earthquake in 1965. The islanders moved to Patitiri and Votsi, but eventually returned and most of the houses in the hill village have been restored. At Örmos Tzorti evidence of Neolithic and other ancient habitation has been discovered. Whether this was also the site of ancient Halonessos, a city that ancient commentators say disappeared into the sea during a catastrophic earthquake, is uncertain, as some authorities believe Psathoüra, the northernmost island, to be the site.

ÖRMOS MOURTIA (Mourtias)

An open bay on the SW of Alonnisos offering some shelter from the meltemi. Open to the S and prone to swell entering. Anchor in 4-6m around the bay



taking care to avoid the prohibited area where there are underwater cables. Taverna ashore.

The village of Alonnisos on the hill above is 30 minutes' steep climb up an unpaved road. In unsettled weather Patitiri is a safer harbour to leave a yacht in if you want to visit the hill village.

PATITIRI Approach

Conspicuous The old village of Alonnisos on the hill

behind is visible from seaward. The village and

harbour of Patitiri are not easily seen from the N or

S until you are close to.

By night The entrance is lit: Fl.R. l.5s3M/

Fl.G.l.5s3M.

Dangers Care is needed of ferries entering and

leaving the narrow entrance to the harbour.

Mooring

Go stern or bows-to the NE quay or anchor fore and aft off the beach on the W side where shown. The bottom is sand and weed - good holding. Shelter Good shelter from the meltemi, although some swell tends to creep around into the harbour making it a bit roily at times. Partially open to the E and SE. Authorities Port police.

Facilities

Water Tap on the quay or a mini-tanker will deliver.

Fuel Near the quay.

Provisions Good shopping for provisions. Ice

available.

Eating out Tavernas and bars on the waterfront.

OtherPO. Exchange facilities. Ferries and hydrofoils

to Skiathos and Volos.

General

As has recently happened on the other islands in the group, the capital of the island has moved from the hill village down to the harbour. Patitiri is a lovely spot surrounded by the cliffs on the S and pine-clad slopes behind, so inevitably it has attracted a growing number of tourists, but remains a pleasant spot still.

VOTSI

A cove immediately N of Patitiri which a number of fishing boats use in preference to Patitiri. A short breakwater extends from the E side of the cove and a 'snoot' of a breakwater on the W. Room is very limited but it may be possible to anchor in 2.5-4m in the NE corner with a line ashore taking care of the numerous permanent moorings. Alternatively try the inside of the E breakwater. One or two yachts may find room to go bows-to the quay on the W side amongst the local fishing boats. Good shelter from the meltemi and open only to the S. The bottom shelves gradually towards the beach at the head of the bay.

Tavernas ashore. It is a short walk over the saddle to Patitiri.

An alternative anchorage to Votsi is the bay between Patitiri and Votsi. Anchor off in 4--7m in sand. Several tavernas near the beach.



VOTSI

@ 39°08.9N 23°52'.4E

Ak kokkinokastro

Kokkinokastro is the red cliffy cape 2.5 miles N of Patitiri (kokkino means 'red'). Kokkinokastro is thought to be the site of ancient Ilkos (about the fifth century BC).

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