Waves a wave



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Waves



A Wave is a rhythmic ______________carries __________ through ________ or ________.

In oceans, waves move through _______________.

A water wave is the movement of __________ through a ________ of ________.
Waves are caused by: 1) ___________, 2) _________________
Most waves form when ____________ blowing across the water’s surface transmit their ___________ to the water.
Wave size depends on the a) ________ of the wind, and 2) _________ of the time it blows.
The wave’s energy ___________, but the water mostly _________ at one place. Individual water molecules move up and down but they do not move forward or backward.
As a wave passes, water particles moves in _____________ motion. Deeper water particles moves in a smaller circles than those near the surface.
The wind affects the water at the __________ than it affects the ________ water. Below a certain ________, the water does _______ ________ at all as the wave passes.


Parts of a Wave



The highest point on a wave. - _________

The lowest point on a wave. - ___________

The vertical distance from the crest of a wave to the trough. - _____________

The horizontal distance between the crest of one wave and the crest of next wave. - ________________



Waves in water




  1. In deep water, waves usually travel as long, and low waves called ________.

How waves changes near shore?

  1. Friction with the ocean floor causes waves to _______ down in the shallow water near the shore.

How waves breaks against the shore?

  1. When the water reaches certain height, the ________ outruns the ________ and the crest ___________.

  2. The waves breaks onto the shore, forming ___________.




Feeling Undertow

The water that had rushed up the beach flows ________ out to sea. This pull is called an ____________ carries shells, seaweeds, and sand away from the beach.

Tsunamis



Are caused by an ______________ beneath the ocean floor. The abrupt movement of ocean floor sends pulses of ___________through water above it.
When tsunami reach the coast, they can be as devastating as an earthquake on land, smashing buildings and bridges.

Longshore Drift and Rip Currents



The movement of water and sediment down a beach caused by waves coming in to shore at an angle. - _______________________
A rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening in a sandbar. - ________________
A Rip current can take a swimmer out into deep water.

Waves and Beach Erosion

Waves __________ a beach by eroding a shore in some places and building up in others.
Barrier Beaches

Long _________ deposits form ___________ to the shore. Separated from the mainland by a shallow __________. Natural landform that protects shorelines from wave action occurs along low-lying beaches.


Sand Dunes –

Are ____________ landform. Reduces beach erosion. Strong roots of dune plants, such as beach grass and sea oats, hold the sand in its place.


Groins –

A ________ made of rocks and concrete that is built outward (perpendicular) from a beach. Reduces beach erosion





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