Waves
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A Wave is a rhythmic ______________carries __________ through ________ or ________.
In oceans, waves move through _______________.
A water wave is the movement of __________ through a ________ of ________.
Waves are caused by: 1) ___________, 2) _________________
Most waves form when ____________ blowing across the water’s surface transmit their ___________ to the water.
Wave size depends on the a) ________ of the wind, and 2) _________ of the time it blows.
The wave’s energy ___________, but the water mostly _________ at one place. Individual water molecules move up and down but they do not move forward or backward.
As a wave passes, water particles moves in _____________ motion. Deeper water particles moves in a smaller circles than those near the surface.
The wind affects the water at the __________ than it affects the ________ water. Below a certain ________, the water does _______ ________ at all as the wave passes.
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Parts of a Wave
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The highest point on a wave. - _________
The lowest point on a wave. - ___________
The vertical distance from the crest of a wave to the trough. - _____________
The horizontal distance between the crest of one wave and the crest of next wave. - ________________
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Waves in water
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In deep water, waves usually travel as long, and low waves called ________.
How waves changes near shore?
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Friction with the ocean floor causes waves to _______ down in the shallow water near the shore.
How waves breaks against the shore?
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When the water reaches certain height, the ________ outruns the ________ and the crest ___________.
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The waves breaks onto the shore, forming ___________.
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Feeling Undertow
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The water that had rushed up the beach flows ________ out to sea. This pull is called an ____________ carries shells, seaweeds, and sand away from the beach.
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Tsunamis
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Are caused by an ______________ beneath the ocean floor. The abrupt movement of ocean floor sends pulses of ___________through water above it.
When tsunami reach the coast, they can be as devastating as an earthquake on land, smashing buildings and bridges.
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Longshore Drift and Rip Currents
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The movement of water and sediment down a beach caused by waves coming in to shore at an angle. - _______________________
A rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening in a sandbar. - ________________
A Rip current can take a swimmer out into deep water.
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Waves and Beach Erosion
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Waves __________ a beach by eroding a shore in some places and building up in others.
Barrier Beaches
Long _________ deposits form ___________ to the shore. Separated from the mainland by a shallow __________. Natural landform that protects shorelines from wave action occurs along low-lying beaches.
Sand Dunes –
Are ____________ landform. Reduces beach erosion. Strong roots of dune plants, such as beach grass and sea oats, hold the sand in its place.
Groins –
A ________ made of rocks and concrete that is built outward (perpendicular) from a beach. Reduces beach erosion
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