A Wave is a rhythmic ______________carries __________ through ________ or ________.
In oceans, waves move through _______________.
A water wave is the movement of __________ through a ________ of ________.
Waves are caused by: 1) ___________, 2) _________________
Most waves form when ____________ blowing across the water’s surface transmit their ___________ to the water.
Wave sizedepends on the a) ________ of the wind, and 2) _________ of the time it blows.
The wave’s energy ___________, but the water mostly _________ at one place. Individual water molecules move up and down but they do not move forward or backward.
As a wave passes, water particles moves in _____________ motion. Deeper water particles moves in a smaller circles than those near the surface.
The wind affects the water at the __________ than it affects the ________ water. Below a certain ________, the water does _______ ________ at all as the wave passes.
The water that had rushed up the beach flows ________ out to sea. This pull is called an ____________ carries shells, seaweeds, and sand away from the beach.
Are caused by an ______________ beneath the ocean floor. The abrupt movement of ocean floor sends pulses of ___________through water above it.
When tsunami reach the coast, they can be as devastating as an earthquake on land, smashing buildings and bridges.
The movement of water and sediment down a beach caused by waves coming in to shore at an angle. - _______________________
A rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening in a sandbar. - ________________
A Rip current can take a swimmer out into deep water.
Waves and Beach Erosion
Waves __________ a beach by eroding a shore in some places and building up in others.
Long _________ deposits form ___________ to the shore. Separated from the mainland by a shallow __________. Natural landform that protects shorelines from wave action occurs along low-lying beaches.
Sand Dunes –
Are ____________ landform. Reduces beach erosion. Strong roots of dune plants, such as beach grass and sea oats, hold the sand in its place.
A ________ made of rocks and concrete that is built outward (perpendicular) from a beach. Reduces beach erosion